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When our GMC is finally done we'll just travel across the USA from hotel to hotel! It's just a Taller Toronado! It's the sheer comfort and cool factor that counts.
right now its kicking my butt 5 ways from sunday if i had lot money dont i would be pissed tires for one who engine was mouse house now clean as wissle 15 years real rank lets say good cleaning has been done but smell like gas staition easy to work on sure traps dirt all the 10 loads launry later add in time meals it been one the few not my first or last recovery but she sure put me in ringer not even close yet paint trim all them fluids and grease yep time capsule only reason if it was like many others would either cut frame took what parts burn rest hammer hell out of it some times better cut your loss other time stick with it cant wait remodel bathroom and kitchen nothing to fancey paint and wall paper little tools and things sure is very unfrendly community from when i was kid getting worse budget build everything cost 3 times what it cost online
yep cost to much in gas and parts old gas just stinks nothing like old rv exactly but getting harder cause lot them camping bans makes it harder for afforable snow birding
Hi Jim, thanks for this series of videos, I have one question, you replaced the adaptor in its original position after removing the filter, is it possible to remove this completly and fit the new hose from the sterring box directly to the wiper motor?
Wow! Why did they stop making these?? They are simply classics. The foor plans are fantastic! This one is just a beauty. I would be afraid with that old of engine. Or is it new? 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 That utility room would be great with some barred shelves for a pantry.
Jim, as a person who tends to believe GM did it alright, why not just repair the trigger circuit? Is it just to get home? If so, you can simply short trigger to the alternator stud to fake it out for the trip, then repair the circuit when you get home. That's all a one wire regulator does, it's just internal. The self-exciting one wire circuitry I've had iffy luck with (your mileage may vary), I've swapped 12si cold-pak (the HD alternators, with heavy bearings and massive, finned voltage regulators, from GM) and CS styles into vehicles of all ages, including Generator vintage vehicles, I'm a fan of keeping the "Alt/Gen" light active, which most one wires bypass. Again, as you say... It's your choice. Couldn't agree more with the replacement of the water pump and Alternator. Yes, pre-test. Most remans are garbage, and getting worse. Also remove fuses for non essential circuits if you can... Might save a parasitic draw from sidelining you as well. Always an awesome video, thanks for the info, and thanks for making all of us GMC owners a bit smarter, every day....
I think if you can incorporate a large 12 volt freezer cooler separate from the refrigerator this would be a good idea. This doesn't need to be in the same place, we have the original refrigerator, the freezer section is too small... and for ferries, and traveling it would be better to have it shut off... the refrigerator setup is the hub of the rv, more important than the stove.. because you can cook outside...
You can find a similar one at about any parts house. Some have interchangeable barbs., would be nice if it were cast 3/8” barb but whatever. Be sure to pick up a can of starter fluid as the filter cleaner. Hope this helps
You had suggested a high volume oil pump.. and i've got that.. however in the comp cam instructions it says specifically that you will gall the balls and the push rods for lack of oil as the high volume pump will squirt the oil past the rocker and it won't get lubrication.. they mention a rocker oil deflector.. something you didn't mention.. My engine is already built.. at this point removing the cam bearings and replacing them is not something I want to do.. your thoughts?
Thanks for the video. Is there a part # I can give to the auto parts guy? I can't deal with the Year, Make, and Model? question. Is it the kinda thing where our alternator is *the* GM 100 Amp alternator? or are there different form factors that won't work for us?
My coach is a recent pull from a long nap since 09 and I'm going to replace a snapped alternator belt soon. I'm thinking I should convert to one wire while I am at it. Do you have documentation on converting to a one wire?
Should I have a 'theme' in mind when making choices? I have an original Royale but would like to tone it down to a more casual and comfortable level without losing too much of its original feel. The shag carpet and gold paneling will have to go.
Hi Jim thanks, I just completely rebuilt my cabinets but what I’m most curious about is what hardware you will use to reattach them to the ceiling and sidewalls.
Looks like a lot of restoration work has gone into this rig. When you guys get hold of a Revcon 6 wheel drive 'super C" on the F350 4 door hit me up, I have a large check with your name on it. Complements on the video production also.
My wife just purchased a 73 gmc motorhome. So I am going through your video library. I appreciate all the work you have put into your channel and the GMC community. Is there anywhere that the single fuel tank with crossmember is available?
Maybe the high speed is relay controlled to protect the switch from high current, a lot of cars have problems with that switches, especially in poor europe
Yes to all of that and I forgot to bring in the delay relay. When you go to the Semlax combiner you will loose this hi fan of but getting rid of the .8 volt isolator drop the blower will spin up the same and better than before. I’ve all but deleted the idea of the battery isolator. Specifically the Semlax combiner is so much better and safer it’s a must do. If you have questions on that give me a call but a 1wire alternator and a Semlax ACR-160 is a must. I invite contrasting opinions
Jim, I don't believe they added the high speed relay to prevent the fan from operating on HI when the engine is not running. If they were worried about the fan running with the key ON and engine not running, why didn't they put the fan power though the relay contacts and power the relay coil from the alternator output... that would keep the fan OFF on any fan setting until the engine was started. My understanding is the HI Speed relay is there to power the fan from the higher alternator output voltage available on the input side of the Isolator. This 0.7 to 0.8 volt higher voltage gave the fan a bit more power on the HI position to help overcome the HVAC system air restrictions. Also the close proximity of the fan to the Isolator reduced the wiring distances and therefore voltage drops in the wiring powering the fan on Hi Speed. Moving the power supply point of the Hi-Speed relay to the Battery Positive Terminal removes the higher voltage feed advantage, so your fan will run slower on Hi-Speed. Changing to a one-wire alternator will also remove the higher voltage feed and result in a slower fan on Hi-Speed. Later coaches also had a delay relay in series with the fan power. This allowed the vent flaps to move to their selected position before powering up the fan. The Hi Speed relay can be replaced with a low cost Bosch type 30 or 40 amp 12V relay. The savings can be used to buy some cool beverages for enjoyment after the upgrades.
Any person who does their own wrenching or work period should always have the basic tools on hand every where you go regardless. Having good quality tools with a little selection is better. But i always have basic tool kits in all my trucks and car and vehicles. Its saved my butt more time the. I can count. Mainly fixing other peoples stuff but since my vehicle was around i had tools. If you can use tools its always nice to have your around
