Follow a dad of 4 kids in the Riggs garage where we’ll build some cool and different cars on a budget, as well as visit other local builds and their creators to see the back alley stuff that’s often not seen. From antiques, hotrods, muscle and import, it’ll all show up here!
I let the engine run for over 40min at a slight incline, even rev the engine a few times, and maintained the radiator fluid topped up, but I couldn't get the lower radiator hose to heat up to open up the thermostat! Air bubbles did continue to come out for at least the first 30 plus min, although slower/less towards the end. The top hose was very hot, but the lower hose remained cold to the touch the whole time. Any suggestions?
I don't know if this will help anyone but I was able to fix constant P2647 and going into limp mode (after oil change) by disconecting negative battery and turning the key and headlight on to drain capacitors, after that I let the van idle relearn for about 15 minutes turned it of for about 30 minutes and started right up without the code coming up drove it around no codes.
Probably not. They're usually underlying issues causing overheating. Thermostat, clogged radiator, low coolant, head gasket is common on these cars too.
Nice lol, was just looking up neo gens on youtube and found this. I still rock 15x6.5 Honda steelies, from early 2000 models. Used duplicolor hyper silver Switching from goodyear to these neo gens. They look really good here except for the tire shine. I know this is an old vid but using just tire cleaner is way better to keep them a nice black color without looking greasy @yokai_garage
@@RiggsGarage haha really? I only leave them on since my car is kind of a beater and I feel like better wheels would look off, and it keeps the attention down as far as thieves
@@RiggsGarage fans do turn on, seems like the thermostat is opening, lower hose finally heated up but I've still got quite a decent amount of bubbles. I'm going to try flushing the heater core and see if that helps. It seems like there's a lot of residue from the old equipment present and I made the mistake of assuming I didn't need to flush when I replaced everything. Edit: temp gauge never went past where it normally sits (just below the icon, about 1/3)
when do you turn on the heat? after the car warmed up or just from the jump? and can the heat be blowing anywhere(i see you got yours on windshield defrost) and do you have to open the bleeding screw? seen that elsewhere
my civic is 95 ph16 non VTEC my friend give me an engine ph16a VTEC.my ECU is P28 stock no chipping and program just stock, all i need is to add a wire just like you do sir,,im from Phillipines thank you, god bless
1:23 if you have a side mirror that has a memory function, such as on the 2010 Touring model, the connector does not detach here. You have to remove the door side panel to disconnect it.
I bought a used 01 Mercury Sable LS. The starter needed replacing recently so we take the old one off to discover washers shimming the starter away from the flywheel. Replicating this setup gives a sound like change in a dryer when starting the car and turning left. Tried replacing the starter, shimming in alternative ways, inspecting to see if theres any loose metal in the flywheel but nothing helped. Anyone else experience this?
I wondered if you are interested in helping me get my 390 running again. In a 1965 Galaxie 500xl. I have been trying to get some help for about 2 years no help so far. Let me know.
Great video, thanks Like you I dont have a hydraulic press but i do have many hole saws , a large vise and ingenuity, lol. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat ! Like yourself ,I don't know how many times I have forgotten to plug in the drill just before using it !
I work in the parts department at a dealership (not Honda) and this gave me a lot of confidence to do this all on my own and not have to bug anyone else for help. Thanks!
Currently doing this outside Dominoes after my shift had 5 minutes left at harbor freight to buy special funnel. Thanks for vid and thanks for saving another Honda 😀
@@RiggsGarage Yes , and after power washing my engine compartment . I will liberally spray it all over and let it soak in , keeps rubber and plastic looking new .
This is the best video for this operation I found and I looked at at least half a dozen. I appreciated the tape in the socket suggestion, but couldn't figure out why the tape in my 15mm socket was not holding onto the nuts until I discovered the nuts on my old struts were 14mm and not 15mm; tape in the 14mm socket worked fine and the new struts did have 15mm nuts. I did not have a 22mm socket but 7/8" worked well. Thanks for the excellent descriptions of all aspects, although I did miss not having torque specs., but then I didn't find anyone who used a torque wrench to finish up. Even the "pro" mechanics just slapped things back together with an air gun and let it go at that. If someone is getting ready to do this job, look no further than this video - it is the best one out there. BTW the Torque I used was 116 foot pounds on the pinch bolt nuts, 55 foot pounds on the stabilizer link nut and 33 foot pounds on the three nuts on the top of the strut. I had to use a wire brush wheel on my drill to clean the threads of the stabilizer link studs before I could get the nuts off - BP Blaster was not enough.
With the help of your video, I was able to change out the struts on my 2010 Outback without any do-overs or cussing. Appreciated the comedy at the beginning, and nice to see the Royals hat (grew up in KC)!
