Jim, I replaced upper and lower control arms, tie rods and tie rod ends, and stabilizer links. I used ac delco gold products that were available except for links that weren't, used moods for those. I marked and measured everything and replaced it back the same. The one adjustment I changed was the torsion bar height on the driver side. The driver side was tightened all the way up and the passenger side was flush with the bracket. An inch difference. I liked to never have gotten the driver side down on the removal so I decided not to install it so drastically on the re install. After I finished the camber and toe-in were way off, not sure about the caster but it couldn't be right with the other two off so bad. I tried to improve the camber adjustments on the upper controls on both sides and it seemed to help a little. The 3 mile drive to the shop for a new alignment was a nightmare. I coded a loss of traction alert on the dash, also the abs and brake warnings came on. I didn't exceed 30 miles an hour. I know it wasn't normal, and I haven't heard back from the mechanics. Is that normal behavior simply from it being out of alignment? Thx for the video, I'm hoping that I didn't screw something up. The tires and wheels aren't original, The wheels are 22" and the tires are about 10 " wide, maybe a little more.
Great video. I was looking at my Subaru to see if there was a way to fill the transmission with some non-slip fluid. (Having a stuttering issues between 1st and 2nd) Turns out there’s no way to fill from the top. Only the fill plug hole under the car. I still watched the video to the end - I appreciate you breaking down all the steps and getting them on video (if possible). Have a great day 🌞
Just wondering where you would purchase that rear wiper blade. I have a 2021 and it seems Subaru has tried to keep their wipers monetary and hard to find other than a dealership.
Thank you for showing viewers how to do this because ive seen so many people just pour it on the ground. Ive seen people leave it in buckets outside so it fills with rain.....
I always use clean oil on the filter gasket cuz this is an oil change ....the purpose is to change the oil. I like that Ford has been using oil drain plugs with silicon gaskets instead of crush washers since at least the early 2000's. I had a 2004 Taurus that had a silicon drain plug gasket, so did my 17' Focus and now my 22' Maverick.
Mine just cuts off every now and then but idles low and rough. I've replaced the throttle body, fuel pump, map sensor,1of the crankshaft position sensors because I didn't know about the other one, and 2 more different sensors and it still does the same thing. Maybe putting another crankshaft position sensor will do it. If not, I'll check for a vacuum leak, or a wiring issue. If anyone has any ideas, please reply
I'm changing mine today on a 2010 Dodge avenger sxt just because it's seeping fluid really slow but it's better to be safe than sorry 🤷 using Valvoline full synthetic
I've had my truck since 2006 brand new from the dealer and I never knew there was a filter there I'm going to have to go check it when I get off of work today thanks for the video man Good job.
hold the nut splitter with a spanner around the body of the tool and use another spanner to turn the threaded peice. ( stop it turning and spinning off the nut)
I have a 2000 RX300 and my fan just started making that same noise today and then just quit working. I am going to find a replacement at Pull-a-Part. Thanks for showing how to remove it.
After soaking up the oil in the housing with rags i used a metal paint can opener / in one section there was enough room to get the lip end of the opener wedged under the filter part and then used a long screwdriver threw the looped end of the opener and with 2 hands pulled both ends of the screwdriver and the filter part came loose / no mess E Z P Z
