Only tangentially related, but for a variable voltage tool battery project I needed to accommodate cells possibly being 100% out of balance (since some lower voltage tools may only use a portion of the cells). I chose to go with a bank of TP4056 charging modules, mainly because they are cheap. 1 amp charge limit on them, but with many in parallel not horrendous for a cordless tool charger.
Wow - less than 20 bucks for the balancer. Mine was 99.00. Was it actually 24 hours to balance or just 24 hours later that you checked it?. I wished you would have shown charging the battery to full 54.6v from the time it was balanced to verify the battery would maintain it's balance. Great video however, and I didn't see where you said 56.6 volts like the other comment mentioned, unless of course you edited that out :).
a 48 volt battery fully charged is 54.6 volts not 56.6 volts, also you say you are using an 8s battery but it shows as a 13s on the board, maybe you should check things before you post a video as this could really confuse some viewers
I have just built a new battery for my ebike. It's a 13s 6p using Samsung 53G1 21700 cells at 5300mah. The bms is the 100 balance smart bms (40a) with active balance at 1amp with Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity. All cell groups are balanced within 0.001v. I'm very happy with this bms. Also used the purple spot welder from aliexpress using two 1500mah 120c discharge lipo's in parallel to spot welder 0.2 pure nickel strip with ease.
For a Cabin, 12V might work, but for a house, you need higher voltage batteries because the wire size will become way to big at 12v. Consider at least 24v if not 48V. Most people use 48V for a house.
I believe Bafang motors are compatible with Eggrider controllers. Allows 2 separate profiles and every parameter becomes accessible including power level. Plug n play, at least on the BBSHD. Program via Bluetooth and app on your smart phone, --- boom.
This is a really helpful video. Thanks for making the video and sharing. That meter looks really useful. Hopefully it'll help me diagnose and fix my ebike battery problems. I may try that active balancer too. That's cool you included the trace repair footage too. Helpful to know these little tips and tricks.
Thanks i appreciate it. I just tested a better balancer last night and doing a video is a few days. These balancers really do work well. Most batteries can be revived with a good balancing.
It's not comparison of lipo vs acid but specific lipo battery with specific acid battery. You can get lipo with bigger discharge current. Also doesn't make sense to weld three times with the same time, make first and last much smaller so it won't get so hot and will weld also ok. Plus increate first delay to at least 500 so you don't have to be so quick with touching. And it's not a percentage but a number of milliseconds how long it will weld.
Do u not put any positive thick wire onto the bms? Is the positive bms harness wire enough for the out +red and the out + charger ? Fairly new havin't made a full battery yet but i have changed bms fixed broke wires and other jobs that come with batteries ie changing singles pcks just not fully built one yet but will be soon and im just fishing for as much in fo as possible,thanks
Full duplex. One pair is for send and one pair is for receive. 100BASE-TX uses only two pairs, one dedicated to TX, and the other dedicated to RX. The other two pairs on the wire are unused. You could very well construct a 100BASE-TX wire which only had 4 of the 8 wires in the correct pin-positions (1,2,3,6), but often the other four wires are still included mostly as place holders for the remaining pin-positions, as well as for future compatibility. 100BASE-TX (with all eight wires) is the commonly used Fast Ethernet specification today. However, it is often (lazily) referred to as simply T. Again, T is meant to refer to the category of Twisted Pair options, and TX is the specific standard that calls for using the pairs at pin-positions 1&2 and 3&6.
MOST of the money from selling cookies - goes to support low income girl scout summer camps, not the cookies themselves ( the cookies have always come second )
It is NOT about the cookies ... it is about helping girls be go-getters, get comfortable with interacting & running their own business ( the cookies have always come second )
the space between the batteries is la lie. Think about it after you finish everything your battery it is completely sealed and there is no are speculation so where is your logic in the gaps help?
15:14 you can see the spark going from lead to lead because you are laying them sideways instead of straight up and down. So many instructional videos from people who aren't even sure of what they are doing. 😂
I have the version with mosfets on both front and rear of the board. The buss bar doesn’t go all the way to the ground terminal which doesn’t seem correct. Can anyone clarify the track to cut to fit a foot pedal? Thanks
Hello, I bought one of these based on this excellent review (V1.4). I am quite happy and even can weld a copper nickel sandwich. 0.1 mm Plated Nickel with 0.1mm Copper. I do that at 14.8V - 2nd setting - and measure 900-1000A current. I use 4 very old (> 10years) 5000hAh 45-90C batteries in parrallel. Before pushing the JQ-DHJ02 even futher I have to install first some TVS diodes for surge protection (probably the 1.5KE18A ) Any way the question I have: Is it possible to operate this board with a foot switch? Thanks
With cables you MUST use the next factor UP. With DC breaker, you MUST use the nearest Amp factor availible. Even if you have to step down a bit. All if these have a slight overcurrent ratio. Your DC breaker amperage is too high.
It must be able to do the copper nickel sandwhich. I have a JQ-DHJ02 with 6 mosfets and with that one I am able to weld 0.1Plated Nickel with 0.1mm Copper. I do that at 14.8V - 2nd setting - and measure 900-1000A current. I use 4 very old (> 10years) 5000hAh 45-90C batteries in parrallel. Before pushing the JQ-DHJ02 even futher I have to install first some TVS diodes for surge protection (probably the 1.5KE18A ) Attached link Russian user who actually weld the Copper Nickel. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JLL7fefjgLI.html
Hi bike cuts off while driving turn ignition off and then on again then just drive a distance again then it cuts out again displayer shows battery fully charge @@stevenc22
It is worth knowing cheap ones suck but they’re cheap expensive ones are really expensive so for the low-cost it’s not gonna be great but the low-cost is probably good for people you definitely overpaid for this one. They are not worth very much money. If you find it for around 20. It’s definitely very good for the price.
I don't know what's more disturbing: this rambling fool's dangerous bare-handling of a faulty 48V battery, or the fools in the comments who one and all applaud him for it. He obviously doesn't know what he's talking about most of the time.
there is a smart version of this balancer with a BT module and an app. Might be a good alternative to monitor the S groups voltages and balance at the same time compared to tester + "dumb" balancer :)
I think i have this exact same unit at my office and I've been extremely curious about being able to hook up a 24 volt 50-100 ah unit and get a huge bump in run time. Looking forward to checking when I get into the office tomorrow.
Hello. Can this process also be applied to my Engwe bike, which has an unbranded motor? I definitely want to try it. In the Engine Pro 2.0 model, the motor cuts off power after 28 mph and continues only with pedal power. Is it possible to remove this limit, or more precisely, to make the motor continue to assist the pedal after this speed? Have you tested this software on motors other than Bafang? Thank you.
I will do it for you, sorry. :) "Depends. Not whether your motor is bafang but whether the controller box is bafang. Many companies use bafang motor but their own proprietary controllers."
Is there any way to repair a e-bike battery, some car batteries can be repaired but what about e-bike batteries. What will be the name of the company that I can ship a e-bike battery to be repaired. And it should be a way to ship a e-bike that to a company that can repair just about all e-bikes ?
