@@1mikesmiley no. The most a programmer can tell you is a pin codes. No programmer can provide key codes. This was not an all keys lost, i just duplicated the customer working key
It is very rare as I understand it but I am hoping to learn more. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GooEdplphyI.htmlsi=ypJu9yLCnRrKncdQ&t=61 This is a BMW key code pulled up by the AD Smart Pro
Fala irmão boa tarde! Estou pra programar uma cópia de uma chave Mitsubishi Outlander 2014 chave presencial precisa puxar a senha pra fazer programação eu tenho km100 e Xpad3 qual voce me indica pra fazer esse carro e se é tranquilo de fazer pq nunca fiz e desde ja te agradeço sou seu fã
what is the name this programmer ? here is a have 2004 nissan micra twist igniotion i didnt unlock wheel steel. dp plus is can unlock steel but thıs time i cant programing chip ? i have a sbb , km100 , obdstar and zedfull.
Did you know that you can generate an xhorse xm38 toyota universal key for this? I generated one to HYQ14FBA, did this procedure and it beeped twice. Then it didn't work but I changed the frequency and it worked great. I learned it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4EdRTfwSRvk.htmlsi=NZwq0OCfZYq-Pkj0
@@1mikesmiley pretty much. One defines the keyway H75 whereas the other defines the lishi type, Fo38, associated to the keyway. A lishi will never have h75 written on it; however!, the opposite is not always true about the keyway; indeed, i have ran through several keyways that also list the lishi as the keyway... confusing yes i know. If you see H75 / Fo38 in your dolphin cutter, it points to the same thing. I hope my explanation does not confuse you.
At 1:46s i started picking the lock. Toy43AT picks open clockwise. AT 5mn in the video, i finally unlock the driver door then proceed to renove the lock to read the code and make the key.
@@pouncerminned863 lol had nothing to do with random buttons bud. There is really nothing special about these. My utmost mistake was not holding the key being sensed at the sensing area because i removed it almost instantly; that is all; one does not need to do countless VW to do that; just tell them and they ll do it (really simple). Lastly, being able to get out of trouble in such a situation allows one to manage stress to overcome the situation at hand and ultimately reach the positive outcome. It was great experience for me: one temporary failure that allowed me to learn twice as much. A failure is always a blessing; that is how i view it. Thanks for chiming in.
Hello. Thanks for chiming in. I never thought about that actually. All i was doing was trying to match the picture but it has been a frustrating hit and miss. Thanks again.
@@DFWAuto_Hack i had the same trouble, until i saw a video of someone (i think it was mykeys automotive on youtube) using the little sidebar stop. My issue were mazda and honda keys 😅.
@@marc0hdz lol. For some reasons i have not had issues with Honda. But Mitsubishi and ?Mazda gave me a lotttt of stress especially when i was running my last transpomder. Lately my machine started acting up with keys im general & breaking probes out of the blue. Luckily i was proactive and had received Dolphin 2 (xp005L); guess what, the new machine is performing worst than the xp005 🤣🤣. I reinstalled the last update of the old xp005 again and it seems to be alright. Today, it broke its fairly new 1.5mm cutter on a circle+ id; i was like whaaaaaat. It was a customer key, ebay key; i had an extra cutter, installed, calibrated amd cut one of my keys and all was well uffff.
@@crystalgaming4864 yes i did. Mitsubishi key cut from code require positioning the key at the shoulder. I have had failures with these on several occasions. Mazda keys too if i remember correctly
@@ericirizarry124 thanks for the info. I agree with you 200%. I know the code was right as displayed in the video; hopefully you ve had the chance to see when i displayed the key clamped and the focud i made on the shoulder in comparison with the picture. What do you think of it? Does anything seem off? Thanks to let me know and God bless you
Diagcode is a software that provides pin for hyundai and Kia up to 2016. Diagcode cost between $4-500 & allow you to pull 3 pin codes per day; pin is also easily fetched using the programmer; just have good voltage and good internet speed.
Disabled it? Oh wow. I wonder how ?! Were you able to restore the steering lock operation? If so let us know what you had ro do. I had VVDI that day but wanted to do the procedure with key tool plus & kept vvdi as a back up. Key tool plus has been a hit or miss for me so i always try to see what it can do. I really thought vvdi2 and key tool plus were going to do the same thing same way. Did vvdi 2 allow you to save eeprom and flash before starting the procedure? Key tool plus did not have such option to use for manual back up which i think should not be the case because it is risky not to have any back up. Lastly, a guy on my whatsapp locksmith forum tried the same procedure on the same car with key tool plus but for some reasons, it failed. Both customer keys and his were no longer working and the car turned into a veggie; what a disaster?! I think the CAS was corrupted or something & i told him that it could be due to his internet speed because he was using jumper cables just like i did on this car and it was the same programmer working on the same cas3++ istap so the only thing i can think of is Internet Speed
Yes bud. I chose the title to draw attention in order to share or point out about the importance to clean or lube the lock when things get wierd like this. I edited the video but i picked it 3 times and everytime i could not find a match then i started being paranoid about other wafers whose cut were slightly in between numbers which led to me actually messing up the whole combination. If things get wierd, lets lube the lock and try again; furthermore, our friend from Australia provided an awesome info: mazda cuts alternate from odd to even. Big thanks to him for sharing
@@DFWAuto_Hack yea.. very good info... but you decoded 3 times, and that was definitely a 3depth... it was not about the lube... very strange... maybe other people with big experience could tell us, how that cut was not a 3 depth...?
Such a valuable info. Thanks for chiming in. The resource I use did not mention that or I simply did not view it. Thanks again. Mazda tends to challenge me a lot, even when duplicating keys; my dolphin cannot seem to decode it automatically without mistakes so i always use the universal cutting mode or my Manual cutter.
Thank you. Would it actually fit in the wrong way? I don’t remember if i corrected or not but my friend whose Telluride brakes i was doing never had any issues up until today. Before i wrap things up, i told him to go for a ride; he said it was smooth; 2 days later we met at another location and he said all was well with not a single noise or deiveability issues. May be i realised it, corrected but forgot to video tape that part or more importantly leave a note in my video to prevent others from maning the same mistakes therefore my apologies if i misled you; it was not my intention. God bless m
You said is ID46... but you generated ID48... it should be ID48 :) ... Some audi b7, still have immo3, and the procedure, yea, is to read pin, and learn key... just like on B6... But most B7, has immo 4, where you have to read immo data, generate dealer key, then add key :)
Yes buddy i did with another tool. I just performed the job with KTP because i am still trying to determine what it is best at. I usually remove tbe CAS and do ot on bench with ACDP. I gave such a low prics ro this lady & guess what she complain her key did not have a bmw logo and wanted a free key cut GZzz
@@csgtt i love it. A breeeze. My first cas3 ever was a cas3++ istap. I bought a $1200 BMW at auction to learn nd it had no key. I tried Autel nd it could not read ISN. Tried lonsdor and it respectfully said it could not do it lol. Acdp was like 1 2 3. Now the Bimmer is a work project for me to keep. It will be a good guimea pig for all my ECU coding and flashing experiments 😀
Hi bro... i just subscribed... im glad you found a solution to start the car, and thanks for putting here the solution! But problem was because, you didnt hold the key to the sensing are, while pressing "ok"
Yes Thank You brother!! You are the 3rd or 4th brother that made me realise that. The only thing im still questioning is after the manual security info entry, i made the same mistake because I was so stressed out lol i could not even watch the key count on dash. It took both key fobs but im never gonna that mistake again. Thanks to you all, my key programming family 🙏🙏
@@csgtt hahahha i just got done testing if my OBDstar could perform all keys lost on Immo 4. Just training on a cluster i purchased on ebay to toy with and it seems like obdstar could do it because it read and weote eeprom data so im sure it can read immo but ignition needed to be switched on to read immo data by obd so I cannot finish it on bench
@@csgtt have you done a 2018-2019 VW ATLAS yet? It is an MQB48. I ve done one a month ago with keytoolplus but did not have time to make the video and post it yet. I used keytoolplus. It went well but the key fob fccID was lacking just a but in its last 4 character after the hyphen; this caused the remote not to work. It was a keyed ignition by the way
