1. As others note, there is a shoulder that rests against the screw holding the nozzle, it should not pinch other than just to hold it snug. Actually it's a groove, so 2 shoulders. 2. Having said that, it needs to be snug enough not to move, and there is play in the groove that the screw sets in. I advise pulling the nozzle so it is as far down as possible when you tighten the screw, so that if it does come loose and slips then the nozzle goes up. if you do it the other way so it can fall down (closer to the bed) if it comes loose, then the nozzle can scratch the buildplate if it gets stuck down for some reason. Testing if you can move the nozzle/heatblock up/down by hand is a good pre-print maintenance check. 3. you have to do the complete 5 tool recalibration if you change any nozzle to avoid the problem you describe in the video, and yes it takes a long time. Seems like you should be able to calibrate just the changed nozzle but the firmware does not support that last time I checked.
Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately sometimes you get a bum machine. Prusa swapped out my MK4 and there was a night and day difference with it & they confirmed mine was not assembled properly from the factory.
Maybe I am lucky, because I have not had problems with my Prusa XL so far, but on the other hand if I would have, I will be happy that Prusa is active and wants to replace my printer for new one. So, I do not understand what`s wrong 😅
Did you only work through email with these issues?.. They have a live chat on their page and it works great.. no waiting a couple days for a reply.... I know people who had replacement parts shipped to The States a couple days later.. And offers to replace the whole printer.. (RU-vid influincer) not sure why it took you so long for your issue.?
I haven't had an upper hot-end clog yet, but it's not rocket science. The whole hot-end is made from metal. If I had an upper nozzle clog (not caused by pinching the hot-end tube) I would remove the nozzle and gently heat the the entire hot-end with a small torch or paint-stripping / heat-shrinking heat gun.. goal is to get the entire hot end to 200-250c. if your clog is filament, then it shoudl push down.. USE PLA. once you get it coming out the end... keep pushing as the assembly cools.. then when it gets to just below 100c.. firmly pull the (pla or cleaning filament) out the top. Hold the end of the nozzle in a small vice. you will be cold pulling the entire nozzle assy.. it shoud end up completly clean. upper hot-end colgs are caused by the cooling fan not running, while the hot-end is hot.. thus the cold part of the nozzle is hot enough to melt the filament against the wall and there's your jam. you need to re-heat the upper part of the nozzle to get it moving.. then cold-pull the whole mess out of there.l
better to stick a 1.7mm heated drill in it.. i will absorb the filament in the cavities without damaging anything else.. Did it a lot with my flawed heatcreep pheatus hotend.
Yo, this is sick af! I'm an OG GoW fan and love this! May have to do something smaller on my Bambu. The worn look on yours is so good! Did you paint the STL/OBJ in software, or did it come pre-colored for the slicer?
I have had a lot of problems with filament jams in the middle of the cold area part of the nozzle. The fastest way I found to fix, is to remove the nozzle and if needed heat it with an electric heat gun until I can remove the filament. I have a special tool that is a metal rod with a handle that I can check to see if it is clear. I also have a very long 2mm drill bit that can reach all the way to the end of the nozzle and use it to remove plastic. I suggest that you keep spare nozzles. They can be swapped out quickly
For the smaller N64 cube, was the green the only color with the issue? It looked like the kind of surface you get when the tool is not properly secured to the carrier. If you have not greased the 3 hexagonal pins on each tool front face, do that. If that doesn't fix it, you may want to recalibrate the dock position of any tool that does that. And finally, if it's on ALL the colors/tools, then it may be a belt tension issue. Prusa KB has the audio tuning app thing, but also a test print that does extra non print moves to show whether or not the belt tension still needs adjustment.
Are you complaining about the company actually reaching out and proactively trying to replace your faulty printer? Seriously? 🤯That's what GREAT customer service should do if you ask me. 👏Compare this to Bambu and their appalling Trustpilot reviews. I am happy as a clam with my Prusa, but let's face it: printers are complex machines. Sh*t can go wrong. It's annoying that you ended up with a faulty one, because the chances are supper slim with this brand. But they faced the music and offered a perfectly fair solution. I am not sure the other brands would treat you better, quite on the contrary...
I have my 5 tool since march and I have no issues whatsoever. It's printing day and night, everyday. I think the cast majority of XLs work just fine. The only issue I have is changing spool when running out. That does not work well yet.
Heat nozzle then stick a long acupuncture needle up in the nozzle and give it a lobotomy. This is usually enough to clear anything short of something solid that's bigger than the opening. However, if that doesn't work you can heat up a small allen key almost red hot then press it down in to the top of the heat break in to the stuck plastic, let it cool, then pull the whole mass out. Sometimes it needs a little external heat on the nozzle so it breaks loose when you pull it. Don't do this on a hot-end that isn't all metal because the hot allen key will burn the PTFE tube. Bambu has instructions for this in their clearing nozzle guide.
really happy with the bambulab -> sure: different materials take more time, but they are solid. Might wait for a large format printer until they release some XL version
A couple of things. It doesn't pinch the nozzle. If it does, you're screwing it in too tightly. That could have caused your jam. Secondly, there's a shoulder it rests against, you don't need force from the screw, it's just there to index it to the top of the assembly, no 'pressure' is really needed. Just get it barely snug and it should be fine.
imo prusa threw away an opportunity to have the extruder->nozzle distance be super small. The whole extruder is in front of the toolplate, so there is no reason to have it so high up, they should have gone with an integrated hotend-extruder design. My Ratrig vcore toolchanger design is better :D
Filament oiler/cleaner. They're super cheap and easy to use. No more clogs. I use them on all of my machines and couldn't tell you when my last clog was. It's definitely been years. Just like any other machine preventative maintenance is key. It's far easier to avoid the problem then trying to fix it.
For some reason YT keeps recommending this channel to me. I don't own an XL, but I do have a MK4 that I assembled myself. The level of dunking on that this poor printer is getting tells me it's either a defective unit, it's not properly assembled, or it's PEBKAC. Look around you, look at the everyone else happy with their XL.
The problem with Prusa is once you start swapping nozzles you are potentially opening a can of worms. As parts wear the issue of damage to the extruder rises every time you change nozzles. I found this out the hard way. Poor design.
@@Design_no That is nonsense, swapping out nozzles does not harm anything. Only if you fasten the screw too tight, it can damage the nozzle. Is that "poor design"? Every 3d printer can get defects from mistreating, they are not fool proof.
The Nextruder design could be improved as well. There is too much room in the gear cavity that allows flexible filament to jam very easily. I just started running into this in the last 24 hours (first time printing TPU, Polymaker 95A HF), which I'm sure is why RU-vid is recommending your video to me.
you want simple answer to PRUSA XL issues? WAIT FOR V2 Design of the XL. I would NEVER buy the first one as it always needs redesign etc! Prusa should hire better engineers.
Always funny when people blame the hardware even though the real problem sits right in front of it... First of all, clogs can happen on any printer at some point, that's why you usually keep spare nozzles or in case of the nextruder design you can even have a spare hotend since it's swapped fast and easy and you're back in business. Do preventive maintenance, clean your nozzle before/after each print, do a cold pull every now and then, use cleaning filament, ... Have 2000+ hours of print time on my MK4 alone and only had a nozzle clog up once, it was a 0,25mm nozzle when printing polyterra pla and doing a bunch of ironing (was using a nextruder adapter with a E3D plated copper nozzle). With the default brass nozzle never any problems, neither 0,25mm nor 0,4mm and same with 0,4mm Obxidian nozzle that has gone through several spools of PETGCF, PCCF, PLACF, GID and so on. Second the nozzle design, you have a recess on the tubing, that's where the screw actually grips, so even with a slightly loose screw so that the hotend might twist, it will not fall out. You just have to be careful to not overtighten the screw as this will squish the tubing causing jams. Having Prusa's since the MK2, then MK3 later MK3S+ and now MK4, in all the years and thousands of hours using them, I never ran into any serious issues just following my own routine of how to set them up and use them properly.
@@Design_no Never said it's flawless overall, everything can be improved when you really want, made some improvements to my MK4 as well to increase print quality, nevertheless it will print no problems out of the box even without the mods, as none of them has to do with reliability. You always have to see the context, in this case the complaint is clogs and nozzle design, which are not related to a major design flaw as claimed, more to user error in one way or the other.
It's hard to learn stick if the transmission is busted off the line. Tinkering on a printer is one thing. Having mass failures on a printer of this "quality" is another. You can support a company while also holding them to a high standard. Blindly supporting a company because they used to be good is just stupid. There are hundreds of posts with people suffering the same issues on these printers. Definitely a quality issue in recent years with prusa.
Haven't had these issues with mine, but I am quite certain that you should recalibrate the individual tool head after a nozzle swap (it would not crash that way and the printer knows the tool offset). Also, I feel like there should be a small ridge where the skrew touches the heat break, so you should feel if it is in all the way when pushing the nozzle in.
I have like almost 800 hours on my XL that I got back in May 2024 and haven't ran into any of these issues you have mentioned. Been a flawless printer for me. So if anyone watching this, and is thinking this is a terrible printer. It's not. I have built multiple Vorons, I own multiple Bambu printers, and I own a XL. Not a "Prusa Fanboy" at all whatsoever. All the complaints I have with the XL can be fixed with software. In your case, it's more than likely that your fans aren't properly cooling the heat break and thus causing the jamming. Check the heatbreak temperature as you're printing on Tool 1. It might be getting too hot. Since the nozzle and heat break are one assembly, you can effectively take out the nozzle and replace it while you try to unjam the other one. I get that this sets you out a week or more, but being prepared for these common situations (yes, every printer jams at one point) will help you in the long run. I always keep a spare hotend for each printer in case disasters happen. I agree that the set screw design isn't as good of a design as Prusa might have hoped, but I haven't had the slipping issue you're describing either. I get the nozzle keyed in that notch, then pull down on the nozzle/heat block assembly lightly and then snug the set screw just enough.
Heat it up, make sure the fan is off so even the hold side heats up. then make sure the extruder isnt engaged and pull like a mad man with some pliers. Get some nozzle cleaner needles and shove en through the bottom. Worst case take it apart completely. Shouldnt be too hard. Just putting it together might be a bit complicated.
These kinds of issues aren't really a big deal on budget printers, but when you spend this kind of money, these small issues become a huge problem and make you regret your investment.
I feel for you brother. The XL is complete and utter junk. It broke my trust in Prusa products going forward. I was planning on outfitting my farm with at least 19 more XL units for faster multicolor prints but now I wouldn't buy them even at half price. I sold mine and Im waiting on Bambus XL competitor to arrive this year. I love my X1C's and P1S's and I hope Bambu has the same quality with their new unit.
well if they relase bambu XL to be basically upscaled carbon then it will be perfect, however if they go prusa toolchanger route then I bet it's gonna be bigger garbage than xl
@@howabout2138 Maybe, but Bambu has implemented features perfectly so far. For example, the AMS was miles ahead of the clunky MMU1/2 (even the 3) and works without the headaches. They made color changing easy and reliable. We do know that the new model is going to be larger and implement new technology. Also BL has said (quite a while back) that they want to decrease filament waste in the future. They did this slightly with the A1 series. I'm not sure if they'll go toolchanger with the new unit, but I don't see how theyll eliminate waste much further without doing that. But I'm also no engineer, so who knows.
@@TranquilityTerrace Maybe a X2C or P2S?? They said the new model will be larger and implement new technology. Id say that most likely means a new machine instead of a bigger existing model, but it's anyone's guess.
@@howabout2138 Why? The X1C was their first 3D printer and it worked pretty flawlessly, yes some people have had problems so they probably have had some QC issues. The only issues I've had with my X1C is that the bed isn't flat and there is quite a bit of VFA (I think it's called) when printing at slower speeds like you have to with some filaments. I don't see why their attempt at a tool changer would have to turn out any worse than Prusa. If they only make a bigger printer that seems unnecessary for most people, and I wonder why it would take them 2 years to just scale up the X1C. I hope they at least make an IDEX machine so you can use a different material for supports. Maybe somehow combine IDEX with AMS. Would be nice if it could somehow change the filament in on extruder while the other one is printing. But that might be impossible, the way IDEX machines usually work (both toolheads on one rail doing the same thing) probably wouldn't allow for something like that.
Just get a bambu. I love that I have had my p1s and it has a 99% success rate with ZERO maintenance or setup outside of greasing and cleaning lead screws and rods. I really don't want to send money to china... I don't but the bambu is a better machine. The ams is on version 1 and hasn't failed at all. Prusa is on version 3 and still failing.
mmu3 is superior to ams, when youi have normal model that prints in 3h in one color, with mmu3 it prints in 4-5h? meanwhile on ams it means 16h print hahahah
sounds like the heatbreak failed to stay cool. filament melted on the cold side. only option really is to heat it up and burn out the plastic. but dont go too hot on anything bimetalic. tbh a coldside temp sensor would be really good to prevent this. but this can also happen if you run too high in temp to where you must have so much flow to ensure it doesnt jam itself. otherwise can kind of plastic inject your heatbreak. ive had to unclog with a small jet lighter a few times.
My only experience is with my MK3S+. I think your problem is different, but I have a Reptor nozzle cleaning kit that I have had to use a few times. It comes with some fine wire that is used to poke up into the (hot) nozzle to remove clogs. I've used that plus cold pulls in the past. Best of luck with it.
Just built mine XL semi-assembled. It has two heads. I spent 8 hours and 1 hour calibration. It printed ok after tests, and perfect after i adjusted the belts. No issues. I have 1 XL and 7 MK4 right now that I bought in kits and built them. And all of them turned out great. About 30 hours on each printer. Two of them in encloser.
