those 2 black plugs at 2:18 cover glass guideblocks. if all you need are minor adjustments you can raise/lower the front/back with whatever sized torx and skip all the in/out adjustments. if you need in/out adjustment you have to adjust the mounting studs for the regulator. you can see one in your video and the other is hiding behind the door speaker so you'd have to take the door speaker off to get to the front one.
Very helpful video. My door was driving me crazy because there was a clicking sound that I would hear anytime driving over bumps. I took the panel apart so many times trying to find it. Then I noticed that the passenger side window was sitting much higher than the driver side. So I followed your video, lowered the glass; and now the sound is gone. Seems that since the glass was sitting so high that it was tapping against something inside of the door.
You removed the the aftermarket door seals? What happened? I added them to my 2022 Model 3 and they reduced the noise of going through puddles and slushy snow A TON. Didn't help much with high speed noise. EDIT: Great videos. Thank you! New subscriber.
Just bought a used 2022 M3. I took my first long road trip and windy city! I was going crazy! I almost bought a rubber seal, but let me try this first. Thanks!
if my window squeeks and rattles while going over bumps if the car is cold but is fine one the car has been in the hot sun do you reckon tighten the window by 1 turn?
Shouldnt you need to hold the nut with a wrench so the outer nut doesnt move while using an allen wrench to turn the inner sleeve? When i turn with the allen wrench the entire mechanism moves and didnt help my window noise at the top.
Thanks to this video I was FINALLY able to solve my wind noise problem! Didn’t have to remove speaker because just adjusting the rear of the glass did the trick since all my wind noise from coming from near the B pillar
I just did this on my 2023 Model 3, I only had to adjust the rear one, so I didn't even take the speaker out. It fixed the wind noise completely and the glass is flush with the B pillar now.
I'm doing the same thing. How many turns worked for you? I've done 4 turns, still have some wind noise at the top of the window towards the B pillar. Seems to change when I adjust but I'm not sure how much to go. Thanks in advance.
Probably 8-9 but i only did the back one. A few days later a little bit of wind noise came back so I'm going to adjust the front and back a little more. @@georgeborrelli3134
Thanks for taking the time to show us the adjusted process!! I was envisioning my first cylinder to be much like yours having never seen any of the internal workings!! Much appreciated!
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I did this on my Sept 2021 Tesla Model 3. The Torx screw is T30 now. Also, I found 2 turns to be too much. If there's too much friction between the window and the window gasket - pinch detection kicks in. For me, a half turn helped. You can definitely see the window putting more pressure on the window gasket.
Great video pal. I just received my new o rings and thanks to your video, I will be doing this myself soon. You just saved me from having someone replace the actuators with new ones. Thank you very much
Ich finde nirgendwo angaben zu den Maßen der O-Ringe. Kann mir da jemand was dazu sagen. Ich möchte ungerne erst ausbauen und dann die passenden Ringe kaufen gehen. I can't find any information about the dimensions of the O-rings anywhere. Can someone tell me something about that. I don't want to remove it first and then go buy the right rings.
Top tip. If you are trying to adjust your windows. Don't reinstall the door panel until you have taken the car back on the road to see if the wind noise is gone and readjust as needed. The wind noise on my 2023 model 3 was at the b-pillar both front and rear glass. Use a dollar bill to slide between the glass and the seal to check where the gaps are at
I'm doing the same thing. How many turns worked for you? I've done 4 turns, still have some wind noise at the top of the window towards the B pillar. Seems to change when I adjust but I'm not sure how much to go. Thanks in advance.
Great video. Thanks so much. Inside the actuator it seems to have a second place for 2 o rings. That's what I did, I put 2. I haven't tried it yet. Do you think this will create a problem or really solves the leak problem?
Hard to say...normally I'd say that if it needed the extra o-rings, they would have put them there originally. But in this case, as long as the inside of the tube is smooth and there's no interference, maybe it's ok. Let me know when you get a chance to try it out!
@@destructure00 My issue was that at the local dealership they were asking me 69 euros for 2 o rings. So I put another 2 of the same from my collection and as I said so far it works very well. Thanks for your reply.
@@FENIA3648 Mine are leaking again after 1 year. I ordered the o-rings from the link provided and they seam to be from China. They must be low quality. I was thinking of putting on 2 o-rings as you stated. Has it worked well for you? I am worried it will be hard for the pump to operate the actuator with the extra o-ring.
Very tempted to try, my wind noise by driver ear gets worse if I push window out with thumb while driving. However, given that I never get water spray inside from high pressure laser free car washes, I am wondering if this is even worth trying.
So, how did this setup workout for you? I’m about to run the same setup for N. AZ camping and interested in the connectivity level around trees with the flagpole. Thanks!!
It worked great. I had to park my truck across the camp site from where our trailer was to avoid the trees, but the 150' cable I bought was plenty long. Had great service the whole time we were up there.
Here's the anti-rattle hitch pin I'm using too. I didn't buy it from uHaul (can't remember where I got it) but this is the right one. Makes a huge difference in stability. www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-Towing-Security/Anti-Rattle-Receiver-Pin/?id=16372
Nice video. We've got a reflection as well and I'm trying to figure out the best way to pole mount mine. I have a Flag Pole Buddy for my flag already on the ladder, so I don't necessarily want to mount it on the ladder. You also may find that you don't need all that height. You can cut down on the height to add stability to the dish. This may be an option for me. Thanks for the suggestion.
Nice! You likely have a factory tow hitch then, right? This setup worked great for us the first time out this past weekend. We were in the forest and picked a spot under some trees for the RV, which meant that I couldn't use the dish there. Was able to move my truck to a clear area, flag pole almost fully extended, and stretched the 150' Starlink cable across the camp site, and it worked really well. The anti-rattle hitch pin ended up being necessary to keep the whole thing from swaying. Got some decent wind gusts and only saw the dish move a few inches side to side. Good luck on your setup!
@@destructure00 yes, we have the factory hitch on the back of our Reflection. Unfortunately, we also have a bike rack there so I can't use it like that. Thinking about that setup for our truck or maybe figuring some sort of a flag pole system where it attaches to the rig. On a different note, are you on any of the GD groups on Facebook? There is a rally coming up in Tucson next year if you want to hang with other GD owners.
@@allenpoindexter1825 yeah that makes sense. I'm in the Grand Design RV Owners FB group - will keep an eye out for info on the Tucson rally, that would be a blast! We've gone to the KOA there twice, really like that place for a quick winter getaway. Are you in AZ also?
I bought a kit on eBay for about $15. Here's the link to the one I bought....I'm not affiliated with this seller in any way. www.ebay.com/itm/183766952641
