Im Ronald Jr this is my 2nd channel for musicians, i do guitar builds, guitar reviews, i do everything on a budget you dont need to spend thousands of dollars on guitars to gig with Ephesians 5:19 speaking to one another with psalms, hymns, and songs from the Spirit. Sing and make music from your heart to the Lord!! God created us to be instruments with the ability to sing and make music. Music is an important part of worship and praise to God, so it only seems fitting that bible verses about music can be found throughout scripture. Rejoice in the sound through this collection of bible verses about music!
looks great ........ im here because i recently purchased a beat to hell strat like body, to go with my fender maple black label neck (old looking) slapped some fender road worn tuners on there and a FLEOR tortoise loaded pick guard (sounds and looks great only $33) with the strings and strap, im still under $200, and ill never sell it ..... although mine looks like a punk rocker with a pete townshend disposition owned it .....i love it and plan on more projects in the future. keep rockin!
a couple other things people can try - Lugol's iodine. i accidentally discovered this after a guitar pick got stained. try it on a test piece first to see if you like the tint. The next thing i have actually tried successfully (but takes longer) is leaving pick guard in direct sun in my vehicle in the california sun for 2-4 months. the summer heat warped the pickgaurd however, so i would only do this in cold winter months and screw it to a piece of scrap wood first to prevent warping, but you can prolly use a UV light indoors to achieve similar results.
Everybody says to buy the bridge with the large post but my new firefly posts look smaller. And I have one coming in the mail but I don’t think I’m qualified to cut slots in a Tunamatic bridge. What if my Gotoh comes and it’s made in China? I noticed when I was adjusting intonation I started hearing that rattle but it was just a loose screw.
A custom shop is vastly different. The woods used are different, the pickups are different. A set of cs pickups is $200, the switch , pots, cap, you half burned the $500. Nitro finish would burn the rest. And yet you still have not addressed the fret and fretwork needed at another level. Like nickle jcar fret wire, level, front end dress, and a few other things. I am not a custom shop fan, but I know what they put into them. This video is misleading. And the problem is young people who do not have a tonality reference to what good tone even is. Find a vintage dealer, play a pre cbs, and an old blackface. And turn the gain down. Then you will understand, at that point you have a valid reference point. Or get offended and remain ignorant. Choose wisely.
Very helpful Thank You. I've just got a Donner DJP 1000 Jazz and the bridge has springs it's fine at the moment but I see this really as something to upgrade and the guitar deserves it you know. kind of hoping it's as straight forward as it looks. I'm think the existing studs could stay but I might be brave enough to remove them. I've been eyeing this bridge as a replacement. Cheers!
I replaced the nut with an adjustable nut in titanium. I replaced the tune o matic bridge with a better quality one. I fixed the issue of (every) the floating bridge. I replaced the cheap P90 with a Gretsh blacktop pickup (G5400). And last inserted an onboard germanium fuzz 😁 Now it's a killer rock machine with infinite sustain (controlled feedback). If you are interested to know how to fix all the floating bridge issues in one simple mod, this can apply to any floating bridge, look at the vid : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T23wDuaBTEg.htmlsi=xRIM3S0-mEkl8dbA
They now come with poplar bodies and the TE-62 models now come with basswood bodies! I have modded some old TE-62 models with the poplar bodies, I wanted to buy another when I noticed these come with poplar bodies, considering I am not really bothered about the binding on the body I am better off buying a TE-20 and modding that, I will completely strip it down and rebuild it with much better quality parts and also reshape the headstock, or I may even buy a flamed maple neck for it which costs more than the TE-20!
1:18 price has nothing to do with the response of the pot. There are two types of pots used on guitars. Logarithmic pots (A), and linear pots (B). Logarithmic pots taper more smoothly. Linear pots have more of a drop off. Price does usually have an impact on quality. Remember, the best pots you can buy will crackle if you let them get debris inside them (dust).
If you buy pre-magnetized slugs you have to put them in the right way around. If you buy them unmagnetized you have to magnetize them. This is easy with a couple of NDfeB magnets in the jaws of a vice.
Im positive its worth the 200. But today you can get one delivered for that too, and you might as well. Heres what you do with one. Lower the studs the trem floats on to the point that the trem plate base lays flat on the guitar with the spring claw tightened about all the way essentially making it a hardtail. Throw away the trem arm(put in drawer or case) using this with the angle the strings go over the nut was just a terrible terrible idea. Just...horrible. As for the frets being perfect. Ha. If you pay a guitar technician to level the frets then you have a great guitar. Not out of the box for that amount of money.
Hi Ronald Jr. Just watched your review on Denvers . I am considering a Denver DD44512NAT. Does this model fit in your high estimation of low-end guitars? Thanks for responding. Marcel
What’s difficult to do is to get the hardware to age like the real thing. Naturally aged hardware has a nice dull, dirt like layer of oxidisation to it along with micro-pitting.
I have the same guitar. I've always bought cheaper guitars. This one is my favorite. This one just feels good in your hands. Plus the white color is sexy. Like you said the tuners aren't great.
Bought a beat up used one for $40 with another used amp that looked like it was kept outside for a few years before I bought it as my first set up. Been serving me well so far. Learned a ton with it and I think it will be a while before I feel a genuine need to upgrade.
Maybe I’m an old, I’ve played old guitars, new guitars, nice guitars, shitty guitars and I’ve never had to do this. Did need frets dressed as they were cutting my hands.
I don't quite get the deal with changing the ceramic magnets to alnico. as the power output of a pickup is a factor of the number of "turns" of coil wire; the strength of the magnet(s); the distance from the strings; & the shape of the coil (flat/short & wide puts the whole "kebob" closer to the strings...as with a Jazzmaster pickup, increasing output). The point is that, all else being equal, alnico magnets are weaker (lower gauss) than ceramic by a factor close to 10. Hence, if you were to simply swap out the flat bottom magnets from ceramic to alnico, you'd get LESS output. Replacing non-mag pole pieces with magnets puts those magnets closer to the strings, but raising up a ceramic mag pickup should accomplish much the same thing. In fact, swapping the ceramic magnet for alnico (but 2-3 times thicker), and raising the pickup will accomplish most of what you accomplish in this video. In addition, sticking a steel or nickel plate under the bottom magnet also helps. And, few people mention this, but neodymium magnets are much stronger event than ceramic, so you could try swapping out one of them for the ceramic. The ceramic pickups do have a higher resonant peak than alnico, but that can be lowered by increasing the value of the tone capacitor to 47nF or even 63nF and putting a resistor in parallel with the capacitor (say, 100kOhm), which makes the capacitor driven low end cutoff more gradual. This is part of a "grease bucket" circuit, which also adds a resistor in the pickup's "hot wire". I'd try all of these things...all dirt cheap...before going to the trouble of swapping out the pole pieces.
I 3D printed a very small caul and stuck some glass paper down to roll the edges of a kit guitar I was assembling but after the bottom side was complete I gave up as it was a pain, I should have had larger handle grips on the caul, the board did have a bit of a chamfer to start with but nowhere near as good as a Fender neck. I might try your method on the top of the board, to me it looks odd having the top chamfered and the bottom rolled
I notice you have some Elixir strings in the background there, I am about to try some for the first time, I will start with the heavy coating first, and move down to the medium if its too much for me. What were your experiences with them? I also have the same guitar, I eventually changed out the wiring, pots, switch, tuners, bridge, the CTS pots made a massive positive difference to the tone although I quite liked it to start with. Changing out the pots, switch and wiring was a pain, it was the first time I have done it on a semi hollow and probably the last. 1 New Subscriber!
I’ve had great experiences with the GM pickups and the guy who runs the store is great to deal with as well. I ordered a pick guard and was sent one with the wrong pickup configuration. As soon as I let him know he shipped out the right one and told me to keep the first one as well. I love the mini humbucker they sell. They are a little more like a 60’s Epi mini than a Gibson mini and sound absolutely amazing. I’ve been wanting to try these P94 style and I’m really curious about the “Stratobucker” they’re selling now. It’s an Alnico Strat pickup and a Hotrail on a humbucker baseplate. BTW they sell an amazing sounding Charlie Christian set for Teles that is half the price of a single CC pu from most places.
Any way that does not include beveling the fret ends is the wrong way. Sanding, shaving, pressing the wood edge between the frets is called scalloping. As you reduce the wood, the frets stick out even more.
