Having found our “Happily Ever After” 21st Century Style (via On-Line Dating), we decided to never waste a moment, we work to pursue our mutual passion - The Enjoyment of Life. Our “Shares” will show our Adventures, DIY Projects, Cooking, Chats, Motorcycle Rides, Shelby GT500 Ride, and Domestic and International Travels (Past, Present, and Future) but most of all, Love/Life/Reality DJ2 Style.
This is funny. You answered my post on the Superduty fb page when I got done watching this. I'm running 4AWG, but I think I will run them on the passenger side of the truck as this is a shorter path for me. My charger will also be on the passenger side of the camper, so I'll just be extra careful to have the wires well away from and blocked from the exhaust. I've spent a long time getting ready to do this, because I don't want to have to undo anything if I can help it. I also decided to go with a 60 amp fuse instead of a breaker. The only advantage is it won't trip in the heat. I don't expect it to trip period, but we'll see what happens. How did your install work for you up to this point?
This and your other video showing the detailed wiring installation/routing from engine compartment to rear of truck are great, and have inspired me to be confident that I can do the same, thanks very much! A few quick questions about the flush-mount connector on rear bumper: Did you have to remove the entire bumper to gain enough access? Did you have to cut any metal? Any details about that part of your installation would be helpful.
I installed the connector with the bumper on the truck lowering the spare tire to make it easier to run the wiring. I had to cut some metal away for the plug to fit using my Dremel tool. Good Luck with your project.
I did a similar install on my F250. For the Anderson connector I mounted it to the bottom of the receiver hitch with a stainless self tapping screw. If that weakens the hitch we have bigger problems.
Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have any more info on it? Brand, etc?? I have been looking for exactly that type of connector for my powered jack but cannot find one. Also, do you have a source or info on the flush mount connector you are planning on using. I will be adding a DC to DC charger as well and agree that would be the way to go. TIA!
I'm seeing vast cost difference of the 6 guage wire from 65 to 210.00. Curious where you purchased your wire from the battery to the connection in the back. Thanks
Check the description, there is a link to Explorist Life, this is where I bought wiring, the circuit breaker and fuse. I did not have enough wire for the truck and trailer, so I ended up buying wire from a local hardware store to complete the truck installation.
I enjoyed your video especially since I have almost the same truck. I am going to add one as soon as I can. Question - Why does the negative have to go all the way to the front, why wouldn't grounding on the frame work? Since wire size is based on current and total length of positive and negative you could cut back on the gauge, maybe. 6 gauge copper (not the cheap CCA) is very expensive and at 30 amps one run should work on 10 gauge according to chassis wiring specs from the manufacturers. Also, the often used rule of thumb is a 20% margin meaning that a 40 amp circuit should work meaning I could actually hookup to my 40 amp upfitter switch. I would really appreciate any comments. This the last step in my RV upgrade which includes 1000W solar, 100 amp MPPT controller, inverter, 400ah Lithium, series shunt and house charger to Lithium. Thanks for doing this video and all the best. Jim
We could get into the weeds here but, here are my 2 cents. We know the resistance of the copper-stranded wire and the Anderson connections. What is the resistance of your truck frame and how will that affect the current flow? What is the resistance of a connection that is bolted to the truck frame and is it protected from the elements? I want to have the most reliable system to charge the battery, this is why I ran positive and negative cables. For sure it's not cheap :) Good luck with what you decide. #6 is what is recommended by Victron, you can find this information on their website. There is a link to their site in the description.
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 Thanks for the reply, I can't disagree and It sounds like you are a person that will go above and beyond and there is no doubt in my mind that because of this you will not have any issues. I guess for me it was the cost more than anything. I also believe you a smart guy just because of what you are driving. We are heading your way (Texas) form Eastern Canada in about a month with my 2022 F250 Tremor 6.7 and 5er. On to NM, AZ, NV, UT, CO etc. for a 2 month tour. I am really excited. All the best, Jim
This is pretty much what I did. I used marine cable that has both positive and negative in a sheath. Rather than running a signal wire, I tied in to the trailer running lights for turning the charger off and on.
I have not checked for any voltage drop. Checking a voltage drop calculator online the 6 and 25 feet @ 12volts and 30 amps it says the voltage drop would be 0.59v
Using same charger. Gets so hot I can’t touch it for more than a few seconds! Is that normal? I’m using 6awg wire and 60amp fuse at the battery. Is the burning hot normal?!
Since the 12 v from the 7 way is left as is, i assume the dc to dc charger over rides any charging that would normally come from the 7 way, which could potentially damage the alternator. Thanks for your comments.
The 7way from the truck supplies a small 7amp charge to the trailer house batteries, so the dc to dc charger is suppose to protect the truck alternator from the lithium batteries pulling too much amps and overheating it. Thats why I'm questioning what's protecting the alternator if the charging pin in the 7 way is still connected as you commented in one reply to another viewer. Hey, I appreciate anyone's comment on this question.
There is no charge current coming from the 7-pin connector going to the batteries on my trailer. Some trailers with AGM batteries charge the house batteries from the trailer connector, mine does not. @@nickc8438
Thanks again for responding. In my 7 way, my truck charges the lead acid batteries in my 5th. It would really be helpful to know if the power pin is disconnected when using a dc to dc charger or if it is automatically bypassed when using the charger.
The flush mount came with an Anderson-style connector but, I did not use them as they looked subpar to me. I used the connectors listed in the link. Connectors: www.amazon.com/Anderson-Power-Products-Connector-Housing/dp/B07CHDM1VT?pd_rd_w=3lGkX&content-id=amzn1.sym.1a072a44-84d1-4c51-bf0f-3547594e8217&pf_rd_p=1a072a44-84d1-4c51-bf0f-3547594e8217&pf_rd_r=A8W32D3AGE9HY4F79S5N&pd_rd_wg=yQXX8&pd_rd_r=036823ef-ba67-4897-a49d-0b5e21c4fab8&pd_rd_i=B07CHDM1VT&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_17_i Flush Mount kit: www.amazon.com/Trailer-Vision-Anderson-Assembly-Connector/dp/B08R6P3WDM?pd_rd_w=tKi0h&content-id=amzn1.sym.c388ca75-4c14-4d9d-947d-5dcde63263f5&pf_rd_p=c388ca75-4c14-4d9d-947d-5dcde63263f5&pf_rd_r=MX8AM99NG319B20P3NM5&pd_rd_wg=BKEei&pd_rd_r=35cbcb28-2a37-429c-ad41-f2a3f2a4e98e&ref_=pd_bap_d_csi_prsubs_0_i&th=1
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 unrelated to the video, what is your cargo carrying capacity of your truck? I'm looking for around 4K and just curious if it's even possible with the Platinum trim SRW with the 6.7L. I believe some Tremors come with a larger payload.
The cargo rating on my F350 Tremor is 3301. We have just put the Tremor up for sale and ordered an F450 as we plan on getting an ATC 4528 for full-time travel. Check out the channel "Time on Target" as it may give you some insight about single-wheel towing a big trailer.
Does the wire loom protect it from heat or just damage? I did not put this over my wires on my install. Do you reommend that I add this loom cover over my wiring? I tried to avoid the exaust area when running it.I am running a 40amp DC-DC charger made by Renogy. I do have the correct 60 amp breaker on the battery end and the 50 amp breaker on the RV battery side of the DD-DC charger.
I think it increases the impact protection, but I doubt you get much heat protection. The wire loom is pretty thin so only marginal protection from impact. I like the factory look also. Sounds like you have a properly set up system.
