Thanks for sharing your findings and code. I am building a portable midi controller which I want to add bluetooth midi. I will use your explanation and code as a starting point during my project.
The best emergency power solution in this case is the direct current generator (e.g. KS 48V-DC from Könner&Söhnen), which can be used to charge the battery directly. This means that the house continues to be supplied by the inverter with a clean sine wave without any performance restrictions from the inverter and only the battery is recharged by the DC generator.
Hi. you are doing a good job. I have a question. Does the "GEN connected as grid" option have to be selected for such a connection? I would like to have a generator connected to the GRID input and use the "smart load output" option on the GEN port. Do you think it's possible? Could you check it? Greetings from Poland
I tried the same setup, because i too couldnt get it to work on the gen port, my problem is after a few seconds it switches back to no grid and say theres 0hz frequency, then after a few seconds it switches back to on grid and keeps cycling off and on , im running a brand new Ryobi 5500w generator
Yes, I agree that a busbar would be a better option. However, I have monitored the temperature at the connectors under max load (8kW) and it's acceptable.
I've done similar projects in the past using plywood and tolex, but it makes the case way too heavy. However you are right the internal foam and fabric is a nightmare and takes up the bulk of time. I've since limited myself to amp and speaker cabs, plus electronics. Good Idea though and well executed, well done my friend!
I don't use an app specifically for the SHOTO batteries. I use the SOLRMAN app for the inverter and it's got some basic BMS info, but I haven't needed to investigate any issues with the batteries, so I haven't bothered trying to find an app for them yet.
Thanks so much! Your video and code jump-started what was going to be a fairly painful BLE experience. Works great! Am using your code as a model for a picoW BT-LE sustain modulation pedal. If I get it solid enough for general public sharing and consumption, is it okay to post your code on a Github with attribution?
I think this is a somewhat complicated issue, as the relevant legislation for your area will dictate what is required. Here's my 2c: On my inverter, the ground and neutral is not bonded by default, so if you run it without a neutral-ground bond, then the AC output will float. The inverter doesn't care whether the earth and neutral is bonded so I believe there is no harm to the inverter whichever way you choose to go. For my setup, the inverter supplies a distribution board where the supply neutral and ground is expected to be bonded. I believe this will be the most common situation for most people but I'm no expert. My system is off-grid, which means there is no connection between my AC (neutral and live conductors) and the city council AC (neutral and live conductors). If I had been connected to the city council AC, their neutral and ground will be bonded, and my distribution board would see a power supply with earth and neutral bonded. Since I'm off-grid, I need to supply the neutral-ground bond myself, which in my case is a permanently installed 6mm2 copper conductor between the neutral and earth busbars. So that satisfies the earth-neutral bond requirement in my case. If however, I was to run the system in a grid-tied mode (hybrid mode), then I would need the ATS relay to disconnect the earth-neutral bond when connected to the city council supply, and re-connect it when not connected to the city council supply.
@@unorthofox I'm off grid too. I'm only interested in the N-G connection for the The residual current device (RCD) to work. My installer said those don't work without that connection, which could be a risk. So, right now I think it's the ground from the inverter grid input that is connected to the output neutral. I guess he knows what he's doing... His technician (somebody from deye? IDK) said it's ok to keep that connection while using a generator on the grid input. As my gen peak shaving is not working with my weak generator, I guess I'll end up using the grid input, where I can at least adjust the frequency range, and see what happens. Maybe then it does not disconnect the GEN with the load spikes and properly shaves. I have a feeling the inverter detects the freq. out of range when load spikes before prioritizing the peak shaving, and so disconnects the gen before it can shave.
@@unorthofox so, I got it to connect. When I loosen up the parameters, the residual current device (RCD) hits with the pump surge and turns off the power lol. Disconnected the ground from N for now, that's usable. It's a 40A (230V) one, never had these problems with outback. I'll study the settings closely and maybe get another less sensitive RCD... The inverter still disconnects the gen if a surge comes, so any peak shaving is a BS feature for now....
In System Work Mode, you set the time of day the generator should work and charge the batteries. But will the inverter turn on and off the generator automatically? Is that possible, maybe with a more modern generator?
@@unorthofox I bet this is not possible with the old generator you have, right? So, the time period you set in Work Mode does not make any sense at all as you need to turn it on and off manually.
Gen port is preferable, I think that it allows for a larger voltage and frequency range and also ramps the power up slower than when using the grid port. There is a box to tick for when you want to run a generator on the grid port, not sure what it does exactly but assume makes it the same as the aux port in gen mode.
Strange that you were unable to get it to work on the Gen port @unorthofox , I assume that you had generator selection in the Aux port settings, did you have for "force gen" box ticked? You should see the generator on the screen when it is selected. I like your idea of using your inverter to check the generator frequency, I made a similar video :-) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VRY9Clo3j8.html
Yes, I had hoped the GEN port would indicate some kind of activity, but it never seemed to pick up the voltage or frequency at all. As soon as I put it onto the GRID port it immediately picked up the voltage and frequency, so I left it there because it seemed to just work better. I'm sure that with better quality input power from the generator the GEN port would be fine.
Thanks for the video. How did you connect the earth.. I would really like to k ow if the generator has a neutral bond at the generator or at the inverter and also do you have an earth wire from the generator going into your grid/Gen port?
I have all the earths connected together on one busbar (inverter earth, battery earths, AC load earth, GEN earth), and I have all the AC neutrals connected together on another busbar (inverter load output, generator/grid input). I have the neutral and earth busbars permanently bonded together. Bear in mind that I am completely off-grid, so I can use a permanently bonded neutral and earth. If you have a grid-tied connection, then I believe the recommendation is to use the ATS to disconnect the neutral/earth bond when going on-grid, as this then relies on the grid connection to have the earth and neutral bonded (this may vary depending on where you live). Where I live, the grid's neutral is bonded to earth on the supply side. The neutral and ground is only split after the earth leakage unit. The inverter itself does not have the earth and neutral bonded, so you need to supply this bond if you need it when going off-grid (my inverted supplies power to a distribution board that feeds the premises, so the inverter is before the earth leakage).
I'm not sure how to track that using the SOLARMAN app that I'm using. I estimate there are 2 charge/discharge cycles per day, or 60 per month. So on the oldest batteries, that have been in since May, or 7 months, it'll be around 420 cycles.
I´ve just seen your recent video, where you tried to connect it to the gen port. Are there no issues connecting the generator to the grid port? Can you limit the power, to protect generator from overload? Why didn´t it work out with the gen port?
Yes, you can limit the power - there is a setting for it at 05:03 in the video. The GEN port does not have the same level of adjustment and visibility on the incoming voltage and frequency, as the GRID port. I tried the GEN port initially and it did not even register that the generator was connected at all.
Yes, you can limit the gen power in a setting of the generator port input, but as you said before, the generator didn't work with the gen input, so this setting doesn't apply. If I unconditionally want to protect the generator from overload, I have to limit the grid power in this case.
Hi @ Unorthofox, interesting video, I did a similar one a few months ago as well :-) . I am connecting to my Gen port with a 5.5kva. I was under the impression that it is not necessary to open up those Grid frequency and voltage settings if you tick the "Gen Connect to Grid input" box. Ticking the box also slows the rate that the load on the inverter is ramped up which gives the generator time to adjust the throttle. I also found that it helps to adjust the generator frequency to slightly on the high side so that it has a bit of space to slow down a bit when the load is applied. Ticking the Gen Force box will charge the battery no matter what the System Work mode settings are. Check out my video and let me know what you think ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VRY9Clo3j8.html
Sorry for the late reply, your comment ended up in the "for review" section and I missed it. Thanks for your advice here - I'm not an expert by any means, but I have found one way of solving my specific problem. I'm sure there are other/better ways to do this. If your generator is well-behaved it may not be necessary to adjust the tolerances for frequency/voltage. In my case I fiddled until it started working and then mostly left it alone - it may be that I can tighten the tolerances and it will still work but since it's working I'll probably just leave it as-is.
I want to be able to switch to my electric battery generator automatically from grid to benefit from cheaper rates and switch back during ceap night rates to charge ouse batteries. At the moment I'm physically having to shut down the grid connection. Has anyone got experience using an ATS so it will auto switch based on batt % settings?
Could this work with a vehicle to load (V2L) enabled electric car instead of a generator? If so could the inverter be programmed to switch to charging the house battery e.g. so say at night (or whenever) plug in the v2l enabled vehicle to the inverter (say before going to bed) and when the house battery goes under a certain amount of charge e.g. 50% the inverter starts using the charge in the v2l vehicle to top up the house battery?
I think the inverter doesn't really care what the source of power is. If you can supply whatever it expects, e.g. 220V 50Hz single phase (in my case), you should be able to manage that through the System Work Mode setting. See pages 30,31 of this DEYE manual here: www.deyeinverter.com/deyeinverter/2020/12/29/502012022%E3%80%90a%E3%80%91%E5%82%A8%E8%83%BD%E5%8D%95%E7%9B%B8%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6sun-5-8k-sg01lp1-useu-ver2.0-deye.pdf
@@unorthofoxu can use a v2l car like a generator. Only issue is for it to work the inverter has to be off grid so mains have to be manually turned off before it will kick in. So U cannot simply set the generator to kick in automatically with the system mode settings if tied to the grid which is what I thought it was capable of. I wonder if an ATS could make that possible and am looking into that.
I wasn't able to connect Generator to Grid input - Grid menu showed frequency 53Hz and no charge or Grid "Connected" Status. Maybe issue in 53 Hz. GEN connect to Grid port was enabled. But I was able to connect Generator to GEN port (after few hours playing settings). For me it works when I set Gen Signal and Gen Force check marks (pull-start generator, no autostart). But now generator icon showed all the time, even when generator is not connected. If I unmark one of those marks - invertor stops seeing generator. Second thing - manual changes of frequency range did not help in any case. But when I successfuly connected generator - range automaticaly changed to 45-55Hz. Upd. I was able to connect Generator to Grid input. Manually changed next - "Reconnect after trip" -> "High frequency" -> 55Hz.
I have not tried the Gen Signal and Gen Force options, so good to know. Seeing as you can use both Grid and Gen inputs for the generator, do you have a preference for either one?
@@unorthofox It is more convenient for me to use the gen port for the generator, because at the same time I can supply a lower charge current than from the grid, and use the remaining power for my needs. This is in case of a blackout. Also, a separate icon of the generator appears and I know exactly how much power I take from it. I haven't checked one thing yet - whether gen force will switch to the grid when the grid is turned on
Thank you for the information. Why did you not use the gen port? I have grid power but I'm looking for a gen backup. But, I cannot get it to work with the gen port.
I also could not get it to work with the generator port. Someone else mentioned putting a transfer switch between the grid and generator - that way you can run the generator on the grid port if needs be.
very helpful video. i wonder if could u set the system work mode to zero export to ct? and make the generator work with the inverter during let's say aircon start having a total starting load of more than 8kw? in this way your generator could act as a grid supplementing the inverter output
@@MelayLibres So my DEYE 8kw manual says it will support an AC peak power output of "2 times of rated power, 10 S", which would be 16kW, for 10 seconds. I'm not sure how it will manage the power inputs. Will it use a combination of Generator, PV panels and batteries? Mine is currently set to "zero export to ct", but all my loads run off the LOAD connection, so I don't need any export to ct (which would be the generator).
I could not get it to accept the generator input on the gen port, and I could not find any settings to adjust the tolerances for frequency and voltage for the gen port. However the grid port does have more settings and ended up working for me.
Ah, thanks.. sorry for the late reply, I've not been monitoring the comments. I've completely replaced the original electronics with a Teensy Arduino board. And the firmware for the Teensy is completely updatable - it's simply plugged into your computer's USB port and you just upload the latest firmware.
Thanks - I'm a bit surprised to see an actual comment on my channel, so apologies for the late reply :-) I've tried a couple of places to mount the phone, and just in front of and below my strumming hand gives the fastest access to the phone screen, without being in the way.
Thanks! The sprocket was custom made. Frame and swingarm is stock, except I had to cut a bit of the swingarm away to make space for the larger sprocket.
Hi Craig! My email is (my first name)@hotmail.com. Otherwise I'll monitor this channel. I must admit I wasn't expecting a response so quickly so apologies for the delay in checking this channel.
