@@aronsgarage834 i had no real starting point. never ridden it before. it (cv40 on 2001 tc88") was 4.25 out. it splutters if i gun it but slow rollon on is ok at 2.5 out. but now im taking it off as i write to find out the leveling off. i rebuilt the acc pump but left the 190 and 45 jets as were. also didnt touch the slide or top. looked quite clean. was nt started for two years only 20000km on it. so ill get back to " baseline" + circa two turns out then take it for another spin. hassle to take all off again. i have state control tomorrow
Thanks. Yes, it’s best you stick with stock jets (Twincam 88 > 45 slow and 190 main) and adjust mixture screw accordingly. Unless you’ve swapped out the cams. The idle screw doesn’t affect the tuning.
Heres some insight from my school bus mechanic father. When ever possible never pry steel metal, like tools against aluminum motor cases. So before you pried with screwdriver he would place some kind of contact protection pad. Hes had one too many, "Oops" moments! One thing no one shows is "hard to remove, because of heat, exhaust pipe mounting bolts. The rubber boot around electrical unit by oil filter is poorly designed closure. These pads are poor design. Im replacing pads with accessory plate hydraulic pads. I'd like to put chain drive, but not cost effective?
Great and very helpfull vid. Thank you. Now my Sportster XL1200C 1999 model (screaming eagle pipes and k&n high flow filter) seems to be having a shortage of fuel. Gonna try 45 (was 42) main jet and a 180 (was 170). Should that do the trick? Or bigger jets?
I made mine before I ever seen this video so here's what I did I have a 22 road glide special oval air filter I drilled two holes in the back plate, I never removed the back plate I put tape over the throttle body opening. After drilling the 1/2" holes very carefully I put 5/8 grommets in(pain in the ass). I ran 6 mm ID fuel hose from breather nipples thru the holes in the plate to a T (1/4") directly behind the plate( its actually hidden) then I ran another hose from the T down behind the push rod tubes against the engine behind the exhaust pipe wired tied to the frame keeping it away from the exhaust to the black filter same one you're using in this video I made the inside almost like the one from DK custom I will post pictures and what it looks like. I used a piece of clear hose for inside the filter to the bottom of inside to the filter( drilled holes sideways thru the hose at the bottom for oil to escape into filter) then I slid a plastic spacer on hose then sponge, plastic spacer, sponge, plastic spacer then used wire tie to stop all of this from sliding down blocking the holes at the bottom of the clear hose. I tested it and it works great.
I have a 2005 dyna wide glide. I put an aftermarket air breather on and now my bike runs like crap. Do i apply the same methods here? Do i need bigger jets and needles? Please help!
You don’t have to get bigger jets. Your stock one are 45 and 190. And you only need a different needle if you want more power. You just need to adjust the slow jet for now. Count the number of turns it’s set in now, (by screwing it all the way until it lightly seats as you’re counting. Assuming your stock setting was around 1 3/4 turns, set it 3 turns out. See how it runs and perform the fine tuning method I show in my other video (while bike is idling) Let me know how you get on.
Hi! Great video, thanks!!! I ask for advice. The TC88 engine, instal Andrews TW 26. Arlen Ness air filter stage 1. Direct-flow exhaust system V&H short shot. How do I adjust the carburetor? Which jets should I install?
Hello Aron, Nice video👍🏻. I have a problem with mij dyna tc 1999. My fuel consumption is terrible. It was 1 to 18, 1 liter on 18km Nou it's 1 to 8 😢😢 I completely cleaned the carburateur and refurbished the carb. Do you have an idea what it can be. Hoop to hear from you. Kind regards, Mike
Hi Mike, Mine is a 1999 Dyna too! Did you install the needle jet the right way? Goes back in either way and can cause issues with consumption. Float level all ok? Pilot screw adjusted? What jets and needle are you running?
Then I would check a few other things: tire pressure, brakes, wheels (to make sure they aren’t dragging), air cleaner, choke/ enrichener, diaphragm on the slide, engine oil level, exhaust, any gas leak.
I can show you years of statistics on my Harley with fuels an oils, oil fortifies! I found something in 1989 at Portland sportsman's show. I have friend that manager of suburban propane going conversion.with Dyno tuner. We measured before an after on this product an was shocked by performance. So I've kept records since that 1989 timeline. I taught math in school with father doing all school district bus maintenance, so this study I treated us both! Leave comments if you want more information on cooler running, more hp, better wear protection!
Articulate and concise. I rebuilt a carb and there was sneezing, needed to back the screw out another 1/2 turn to achieve the correct throttle response from quick twists of the throttle. Thank you
Did you zero angle the protractor base when mounting in vice with an angle finder or level. If not then your final angle of 20 degrees is not correct unless you just got lucky.
Need some advice .My 2003carb fat boy qent in on a dyno to be set up and pass the london ULEZ law ( lowering Nox level ) To do that it seems the bike has to run a bit rich on the mixture. Well it passed and it runs ok and starts and ticks over ,but the plugs are fairly black .The dyno guy says thats ok so long as the bike runs ok .I cant get my head round that as owning bikes and cars since 1958 i always looked for a lighter colour on plugs .Not sure whether to try tuning the mix screw in for a leaner setting .??
Yes, it’s supposed to look brown or dark grey. If it’s black, you’ll end up with a lot of carbon build up on the pistons, which is not good. Yes, try to lean it a little with the mixture screw. I made a video on how to fine tune while idling. It might be helpful.
My twin cam is running rich ( plugs are black ) Do.i need it re jetting ,or can i simply adjust the mixture screw.? I have a device called a colourtune ( never used it ) it goes in the spark plug hole and on tickover you turn mixture screw till you get a blue flame in the view glass . Have you any experience with this device ,?
The bike I bought had been stored for 7 years took me 3 days to get it to fire finally was able to hear what was going on with it. Everything was upgraded but the carb.
i have a 90 flht with cv40 carb, not original. has evo motor and i am sure it is stock, not sure what exhaust or pipes as i bought it from someone else not running. I am trying to get it running properly without the cough through the carb i know it's running lean cause pipes started getting red after trying to adjust and test the jets. what jets do you think i should try? i also have the easy adjust mixture screw in currently thanks in advance
I’d put a 45 slow in there and then adjust mixture screw when warmed up. I think your main is 165 stock. You can leave that in or bump it up to 180 (it won’t hurt)
Thank you. In some cases, during rebuild, some people end up installing the needle jet the wrong way around. That could cause issues like that. Or incorrect float level of course.
Great video and very informative. I own a 1995 XLH1200 Sportster and I'm about to replace the jet needle to a N65C, however I'm not sure what the stock slow/idle jet size should be from factory. In my official Harley parts catalogue it states part No: 27281-92 but doesn't state the size. Likewise with the main jet, no size given. Can you please advise?
Thanks for the feedback. I pulled some data, looks like yours had 42 slow and 170-185 main depending on model. I would try 42 and 180 combo, but if you’re over 4 turns out with the mixture screw (when running properly) you might want to bump it up to 45.
Thanks for your response and information. Regarding the needle, do you suggest I use the 3 x 6 x 0.3 shims too and how many? Also, where is the best place to source the jets you mentioned, please?
The difference in engine running temp at the sweet spot is a lot. ⅒th turn too far in and the pipes will be very hot after 20 minutes cruising. Back out a fraction and the cooling should cope well enough for the cam casing to be no hotter than a very hot drinks cup. Popping on decel is more because you like the idle too low, I like the lope but prefer to be able to use engine braking. At 900 idle hot I get lots of overrun and chugging decel. Set to 1000 and I have to try to get overrun popping. Yes the valve stems are a scary colour with everything set up properly but the plugs tell if it's right or not. Factory setting is too hot is something we can all agree on. Don't run too small main jet for land speed record attempts. Happy days.
The same for my bike twin cam 88 2005 caughing i just shim the needle and sand paper a bit and right on perfect and thank you for the jets size and years info great my friend!
Yeah I do. One of my friends had it. Sounded great, pretty much the same as on the Dyna. My only problem is that idle is really quiet, so I’ve since gone back to my Screaming Eagle with lollipops installed of course. But if I was to go on a long trip/touring, I’d put them back on.
Thanks. I’m sure you’d need a bit more juice, bigger jets, needle maybe lifted even more. I’ve never experimented with that so I’m only guessing though.
I have a twin cam 88 and these are the reasons why Harley has no right to call themselves a premium motorcycle. Charging the premium price without providing the premium parts does not make you a premium motorcycle. Yes I have corrected all these issues as well as issues with the chassis. But now that I know how Harley runs their shop I would never buy a new one. I'm even hesitant to buy a used one again unless it's an EVO Sportster.
...I used to own a 1986 Sportster,first year of the EVO motor....AND YES...BULLETPROOF BASICALLY !!!! Loved the 1200 Kit I put in too....LMAO 🤣.....Miss that Ol Sporty....but wanted Bigger Ride !!! LOVE DYNA'S and Softails!!!
hi Aron, i am really glad to have followed your hint and replaced those bolts. Got stuck on the road since the pilot jet got blocked. Very easy job with the hex bolts. BTW, my build is finally done, ended up with engine overhaul. Replaced almost everything on the bike incl. wheeel bearings ( it was a pain in the ass, i tell you ) and also converted the spoked wheels to tubeless. You have been a great influncer, thank you for your kind support and for sharing your knowledge!
Hey Michael, Sounds like you’ve done a great job! Feels so great when you work on your own bike. Yeah, so much easier with the allen screws in case you need to drop the float bowl on the side of the road. I also had to do it once. And thanks for your positive feedback!
I just rode my 99 EG 2200 miles from IN to CA with 95 big bore kit. It ran great for the entire trip until I got to CA. It now backfires through the carb. I replaced the 3 gaskets on the intake. It did not help. Could it simply need to be tuned for the elevation here? Where do I start? Mixture screw? Slow jet? TIA
@@aronsgarage834 mine 97 Evo road king is doing the same thing while warming up from cold engine start on 45 pilot and 180 main with sportster 88 " mid rich" needle, Big sucker air filter and V&H pipes. When engine is wormed up, runs quite ok 99% - accational carb bacfire. I did tried 48 pilot and spark plugs were to black running rich but did run much better when engine was cold and quite sluggish when engine was hot. Im constantly checking every time for intake leak with propane gas and brake cleaner but nothing to be certain for leak - i did changed the seals and new intake flanges. Maybe its an Evo warming up thing, since beeing my first evo...earlier i had 2000 TC 88 dyna never behaved like that while warming up. every time
@@aronsgarage834 My thought to. using 45 and warm bike sputters on idle when 1/2 turn out so i have mixture screw on 3-3,5 turns out for now. after that is no efect at all or even worse - slugish on idle and acceleration. Becouse of that fact i would maybe try even 44 if i had it- afcourse expecting worse carb bacfire until engine is warmed up. When using pilot 48 i had 1,5-2,5 turns out but bike rans even with screw fully in without any efect on sputtering so i figured that 48 got to be to much becouse of that, thats why i insist trying with 45 and suspecting on some air leaks but cant find them. maybe 46 would be the magic number heheheh when i had TC88 dyna y2000 sparks looked totaly diferent and much more healthier , thats why im insisting in trying to achive that .... Something crossed my mind this moment - float setup? i do have it maybe a little on the rich side, couse i remember of trying to compensate or eliminate cold backfire with some "rich" fuel height in bowl ... do you think maybe the float hight couses rich efect on sparks - maybe efecting on emuslion tube and atomization of fuel in without wanted efect on backfire? damn, this is science heheh... maybe i should of get my masters from HD and carbs not chemistry hehehehehehehhe
I left the 195 but went to a 50. Cleaned the carb and it ran better with no backfiring for a few hundred miles again. Mixture screw is 1.5. Now it is leaking out through the plunger boot so I am going to replace the float needle and accelerator pump diaphragm. I set the float at the correct position on the bench at 15degrees. To me none of this makes sense if it was running perfect for 2200 miles and then all of a sudden it starts back firing. Nothing internally changed so it must be a leak but no leaks. Similar elevation as IN but way less humidity. I am at a loss!!!!
