I've been building knives and blacksmithing for years, and I’m loving every minute of it. I've decided to take two of my passions, blacksmithing and photography, and share whatever knowledge I have. Please don't hesitate to ask questions, I am here to help!
I shoot and edit all of my own content, so please let me know what you'd like to see! Feedback is welcome and I hope you enjoy.
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Website: hathenbrucksteelworks.com. Follow me on Instagram and Facebook. Links below.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks my wife loved watching the process of making the steel. Where could I see some of the photos of what you made with this? I followed you on Instagram
@denzelayala5162 I like to hear that. Thank you. So, o actually just went through my feed and realized that o never posted the knife I made with this. I’ll create a story showing it.
I’m sure you can apply stain, but it’s not going to absorb into the wood the same way. When stabilizing, you can add dyes to the resin. You can do a brown or a black dye to simulate a stain.
Thank you. And yes, the copper in blades wont hurt anything. If anyone tells you that copper in a knife is going to kill you, tell them to contact a bio chemist and have a chat with them about it. 😁
I sure appreciate you! Thanks a ton!! I’ll definitely keep producing content. Right now I’m trying to get some knives done for Blade Show West, but I’ll have some stuff posted soon.
Another good one. This one inspired me to step up my tang game. I always leave mine pretty ugly after forging, yours are nice and clean and symmetrical. Also gonna give brazing a try, I usually mig my through tang together and it isn’t pretty
Hahaha. I feel mine are pretty ugly. Although, I do need them to point in the right direction when doing wa handles. Brazing is the way to go, in my opinion. It’s hard to MIG a tiny threaded rod to a bulky tang without burning through something.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks exactly, that’s why I haven’t really cared. They’re the ugliest for me when I use my Damascus, I’ll forge the tang from the squished part we’re supposed to cut off in restacks. Weld flaws and all, I figured it’s lots of surface area for epoxy to grab. But… I think I might clean them up, certainly will make for a snugger fit up when slotting.
Muchas gracias. En mi opinión, la pátina es una de las mejores partes del acero al carbono. Mantengo el mío engrasado, pero tan pronto como cortes la comida ácida, se va a patinar. No estoy seguro de si hay alguna manera de mantenerlo brillante para siempre.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks muchas gracias por tu atención y la información, si la patina queda linda tambien, es que me gusta el brillo también, bueno saludos💪 desde Uruguay
You have some of the best videos on knife making, hands down. Your techniques and results speak for themselves. I do have a question, did you stop selling your stabilized wood?
Thanks a ton for this comment. I appreciate you! I’ll eventually start selling it again, but I just haven’t made any in a few years. I’m running out of good colors, so it might be time to start up again.
question mike 125CR1 never heard of it you use that to make damascus?with just 15n20? i would love to try it thanks Mark i always buy from NJSB best steel ever
I am, yeah. I’ve had nothing but issues with the DRO. It works one day, then it doesn’t work the next. The mill itself works just fine for small work. If I was to do it over, I’d go with the Precision Matthews.
I seriously think you are the best knifemaker/bladesmith on RU-vid, nothing but amazing content. VERY well shot as well... What focal length do you use?
Wow! What a great compliment. Thank you!! Most everything is shot with my 24-70mm and I’m typically between 50 and 70mm. When I do welding shots or something I want to keep my camera safe from, I’ll throw on my 35-150mm or 150-500mm.
Hey thank you man, I've learned a ton from all of your content I can't stress enough. I've honestly watched many of them countless times, like learning to stabilize wood or even hand forging techniques, those videos are dope by the way lol
I really like all of your videos. I don’t have a mean comment off the top of my head so I’ll leave the real one lol. I do have a question though. Every time I try to do a San mai I struggle keeping the core steel. I start to grind and then bam back into jacket. Do you have any tips? Thank you for all you do.
Hahaha. Well I appreciate it. So, for San mai, I’m not sure if I have any amazing tips other than practice. It can be hard to keep the core right in the middle. When you’re forging it out, make sure to smash it evenly on both sides. Don’t assume that if you smash one side, the other side with thin down at the same rate, because for me, it never does. Also, when grinding the material, clean up the edge and spine then etch it so you can keep an eye on where the core is. That way you can grind down one side to push the core more toward the center. I guess I know what one of my next videos should be 😁
I think you’re looking at the hot rolled price. I’m Not sure if you’ve ever had to clean up hot rolled steel, but it completely sucks. Also, the shipping on two 48” piece of steel is going to be significantly more than a small bundle.
I never bought from Nj before everytime I priced it out Pops beat them enough for me to stay with them. These packs might make a diffrence though especially with the pre-cleaning and cutting. How much did they get you on delivery? Thats was always a factor between Pops and them. Also thanks for the video.
I appreciate this info. I recently got some 26C3 from Pop, because it’s a killer price there. The shipping was $27.28. I think because they’re short bundles, the shipping price becomes very reasonable.
not relevant to me here in the UIK but surely it is cheaper to buy suitable lengths and ma;e your own kit up? Mind I usually use scrap steel anyway, springs, farm machinery bite etc
There are a lot of options here and everyone has their own favorite supplier, but as far as NJSB goes, this is definitely the way to go for buying steel solely for Damascus. Thanks a ton, Andy.
There are a lot of options here and everyone has their own favorite supplier, but as far as NJSB goes, this is definitely the way to go for buying steel solely for Damascus. Thanks a ton, Andy.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks nice will have to look into it when the doctor says i am heathy enough to swing a hammer again as i went through major surgery in may.
I’m loving this thing, so far. The funny thing is that I never really wanted a foot pedal with my 12 ton, but it seems appropriate for this one. I might have to do that.
Veerrrrrrry interesting…. I too am losing my love for my 12 ton… Doesn’t have any umph on things thinner than 1/2” And in final stages of forging I’m switching the dies back and forth almost every heat and it’s maddening.
Couldn't agree more about the dies in the 12 ton; they are an impediment to my processes! One accessory I bought for my 12 ton that has made a huge difference for me is the foot pedal; I like having both hands free to manipulate the billet. Don't know if Clark offers that for this machine, but if they do it's well worth having.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks man that’s not bad at all. I am still using my log splitter press. It works but eventually I will need to upgrade. Mine just isn’t square enough. Thanks for the video
