Ha ! Thats what mine does , it cuts out after 5 seconds ... does that mean the internal battery needs replacing and also soldering? I dont have the dexterity to fix mine sadley . and Im missing fingers to do it . Could I ask what else you would buy for a grade 3 haircut instead ?? God bless if you can help me and God bless if you cannot , brilliant video for those who can do this , superhelpful , and i THINK its the only one on you tube ! So top job !! yea i need anpther machine like it , but cant find one 😞
@@Pure-Crystal-Fire Hi, sorry to here that you have dexterity issues preventing you from trying this fix. Stopping after a short time is a battery issue 99% of the time. They are still available and there is even a new model, so you should be able to get one. Here is a link to the crew cut on ebay: www.ebay.com.au/itm/125759131209?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=WSVRPdz3Rii&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=GhYgtLrYTfy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=FB_MSG
There are other reasons for this problem. First lubricating the blade, second the spring inside the centre is way to hard, the friction causes a strain on the motor/battery. Replace the spring with lighter pressure, or if you are cleaver with a torch flame heat and compress the spring in a vice to make it shorter, its important to keep it square, reduce it so theres only a required around 5mm not the original 10mm. In the long run a new battery will last longer under less friction load
@@scroingus2279 someone asked that awhile back. I did, but didn't like it. My dog would bump it and it would not go back to centre, if I was flying I would be in the ground before working out what it was. If you only fly helicopters it would be ok, but there is no feedback unfortunately.
There are 3 fuses, two together and a third over by the connectors, all three can be seen in the still shot overlay of the board. F1 is one of the two fuses together, do not worry about the third one on its own.
It will increase the wear of parts due to the extra force applied via lever physics. BUUUUUT it is a precision equipment. You're supposed to use it in a gentle way and never swing it wildly. It should be fine for many years. I'll just do the same really. Neat project!
Hey there! I just stumbled upon your RU-vid-recommended vlog, and I have to say, I was thoroughly impressed by your communication style. Your focus on building self-control, staying motivated, and maintaining consistency really resonates with the topics I cover on my own channel. Like you, I'm dedicated to empowering and inspiring my audience with practical advice. Your unique perspective and clear delivery have convinced me to hit that subscribe button. Keep up the fantastic work-you're truly making a difference!
This was a tremendous video. I’m 62 and was able to fix my mom’s Janome. 😊😊😊. Do you happen to work on Juki sewing machines? I need a video on how to take a Hzl-k85 apart.
I am so glad the video helped. I fix a lot of machines and electronics , Unfortunately I have not worked on the HzHk85 so I cannot reply help. Thank you for the comment.
Hi Ron, Great tutorial. I have one issue though. Engine 2 will not shut down. Everything else works as it should including feathering. Engine 2 condition levers are set up exactly as condition lever 1 which shuts down engine 1 properly. I started from a new empty profile so there should be no conflicts. I'm not sure if this is a default Asobo king air issue or something else. All assignments show as working in the control config screens. Tried deleting and re-assigning to no avail. Any ideas please?
Thanks Ron. I'll keep trying. I'll try a different aircraft too. Puzzling thing is that all levers in the aircraft go to the correct positions and all show as working correctly in the setup screens. I'll keep trying because apart from that it works perfectly. @@Ron_A._Bolton
Just to let you know, I started again from scratch and went through the setup again. This time it all worked perfectly, including Feathering, reverse, condition levers and engine cut off etc. I must have had a conflict somewhere originally. Your comment prompted me to try again so thanks for that. Again thanks for a great setup tutorial for Turboprops. 😄
A bit of an update. Unfortunately the issue came back like a bad smell. However after a bit of messing with the control assignments and some 'funky' behaviour with the in cockpit levers, I managed to track it down to an issue with the #2 engine fuel valve assignment. If I had it assigned as it should be (same as #1) engine #2 will keep running even after putting the aircraft in a supposedly cold and dark state. Weird! My fix is as follows: I cleared the 'toggle fuel valve' settings for both engines, then I tried the shut down procedure again using just the 'condition lever cut off' assignments. This time both engines shut down correctly. Of course, the fuel valves would still be open. So, in the Fuel options, I just assigned the condition lever #1 detent button to 'Toggle All Fuel valves'. This worked. It's not ideal as the valves should be operated independently but at least now I can shut down both engines. Everything else works as per your tutorial. What the root cause is I don't know, but the above is a workaround that works for me. hopefully it may help others out too who may experience a similar issue. Here's an unrelated tip: If you find that the prop levers go full forward after coming out of the feather state, assign props 1&2 to 'Propeller Pitch Hi' but make sure to set the action to 'On release'. You may have to check the action as it doesn't always do it the first time. I got that tip from Mark of SimHanger Flight Simulation so many thanks to him for that one. @@Ron_A._Bolton
I came here to write the exact thing as @user-py6ip1yl9y did! Took the words right off my fingertips! Thank you so much. Would you happen to have a vid or settings for your assignments with the Alpha for the KA350. Gets a bit confusing with the trims, whether mechanical or servo and all that. Again thanks though!!
Hello Ron, fellow Bravo fixer here... great video... hats off to you for going in as deep as you did but just wanted to let you and other viewers know that you don't need to remove the shaft and all the levers... as you discovered, on each lever there are two small screws and one adjuster screw held in place with a lock nut. As you probably know, the adjuster screw creates a bit of resistance when the lever travels from idle to fully closed. Anyway, if you remove all three, you can gently ease the lever off the shaft making it much easier and quicker to do the repair. Afterwards, reassemble, adjust the adjuster screw using a small allen key to hold the adjuster screw and tighten the lock nut with a suitable spanner. Another tip for you to consider if/when you need to repair any of the other wires, connect the new wire direct to the terminal and then you only need to join the new wire to the original... much neater and in my experience easier as there is very little room inside the lever housing. More information outlining my Bravo repairs in the comments section below RU-vid by 2020 fs'ers who, to his credit gave me the confidence to attempt the job in the first place. (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dR-QUxHw1oA.html )
Thanks for the tip, I know I looked at that, but for some reason didn’t go that path, I'll check it out next time as I know there will be. A next time.
Excellent video, very helpful. Have completed the repair having found 5 broken wires! What was your secret for getting the circlip back on? With the two washers on the rod cannot see the slot for the circlip yet everything looks correctly positioned and closed up. Have tried changing the position of the tensioner but not enough movement. I know its tight but.......
Ah yes, the circlip, this was my second time fixing it, the first time the circlip broke, this time it was ok, there is a groove in my shaft, but I'm not sure about all versions.
Yes have the groove but with two washers on it is covered. Circlip went on with just the metal washer and all seems ok. Hope Honeycomb will modify for future sales!
Excellent, excellent video which saved me a lot of time and money getting my Janome Memory Craft 4900 repaired. I also received an Error 1 message every time I turned on my machine and getting it serviced in my small community is out of the question as it requires a three hour drive one way and a five-month wait. Your video enabled me to do the fuse replacement myself and I also serviced the machine myself as I have enrolled in an online course so that I can service my three different Janome machines myself. Thank you so much😊
Thank you! You saved me an expensive repair. It was difficult to track down the fuse, but once i found it the repair was simple by following your instructions!
Hi, it's working on mine after the update, did a flight yesterday in the 787. Are you using the Heavy mod? The PMDG 737, partially works but has always been like that. Hype, H145 only partially works since they changes to the Asobo flight model. The controls work, but not the displays, well not for all. IAS for one does not display. What is not working for you, and what aircraft?
Thank you for your answer. 787 not heavy mode. Previously, when starting from cold and dark gate or starting directly from runway, all controls were running except HDG. At the moment, the ALT, HDG, IAS and most importantly the NAV key does not work.
@@cengiz4468 Fantastic , you should try the Heavy mode, also works with the 787-8. In my video series I provide a free check list too. You will have a lot more fun with that mod applied.
Tijdje bezig geweest om de juiste uitleg te vinden op RU-vid . Bedankt voor je geweldige uitleg . Duidelijke uitleg om met de plug-ins een programma te maken op de stream deck .
My autopilot buttons, landing gear, toggle switches and flaps suddenly stopped functioning. Honeycomb gave me a throttle tester and it was indeed broken. Do you have a fix for this?
Sorry I have not seen that. If you open it up and look for a broken wire, it woukd most likely be between the io controller and the front switch board.
Ron: Just wanted to say thank you for an excellent video. I've flown the KA350 for almost two years and have never had the full use of the condition levers and prop feather. Super job. Now after applying your tips, It's my go-to trip taker. Keep up the good work. Excellent presentation, editing and facts..
Here are your solutions for bending the PVC pipe: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ckHxcrnRM54.html & ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p1SMOPaajgY.html
Hey Ron! My first Stream Deck arrived 5 days ago and I've been playing with it non-stop ever since - it's almost as much fun as actually flying! 😂 I run 3 screens for different programs like LNM, Navigraph, Chrome etc. - however because of the loss of focus when mouse clicks away from the main sim screen causing my Steam Deck's buttons to stop working - started to have a play with Lorbys AAOs and Flight Tracker etc. I read that because they connect directly to the sim without needing to mimic key strokes - the loss of focus doesn't happen. In reality though I found those solutions overly complicated, so I've returned to the simpler process of keystroke mapping. I purchased a nice set of icons so I'll put up with the loss of focus issue as I build out my folders. All the above waffle was only to describe the fact that I haven't flown in several days because I've also been trying to figure out the best way to configure the deck for not just multiple aircraft folders (profiles??) and their own sub-folders, but also the best way to set an upper level to handle a few other standard buttons like Chrome, Gmail, Little Navmap etc. I've created a single MFS button to get into the flight sim profiles - but then I was uncertain about the best folder structure to give easy access to everything with minimal button presses during flight. Your video just showed me how to create the kind of structure I need - so a big thank you from just north of Sydney! Mike... 😊👍🏻 🇦🇺
Can you confirm you have condition lever 1 cut off assigned to joystick button 28 and condition lever 2 cut off assigned to joystick 33. I also have toggle engine 2 fuel valve assigned to joystick button 33 Also make sure you have turned the starters off or the props will keep spinning.
@@Ron_A._Bolton Yes I also assigned engine fuel 1 to shut of on condition lever one cutoff, not sure if it was necessary. The props feather as you demonstrated and shut down. Warnings remind to shut starters off. Beast of an AC.
Thank you so much for making this video! I'm notorious for blowing this fuse in the machine once or twice a year - and this walkthrough has saved us so much time and hassle as I need it for work. Very much appreciated, thanks again!
Hey CHANNELNAME, do you have an email address at which we could contact you regarding this video? We would be interested to discuss a license to use this video if this is generally possible? (i.e. via email) 🙂 Cheers, Felix
