Putting granular CYA in sock and putting the sock in a chlorine floater has worked well for me. I go out every so often, take the sock out and give it squeeze. Easier than trying to suspend sock near return jet.
So total alkalinity is independent of PH. Want to raise PH add baking soda. Want to lower PH add acid. Do the exact same thing with alkalinity. Got it.👍
If CYA does not evaporate with water, then why does topping up the pool to replace the water that evaporates raise the CYA level? Example. In a 25000 gallon pool the water weight is 195000 lbs (25000 gallons times 7.8 lbs / gallon). For CYA concentration of 30ppm, then there is 195000 times 30/1000000 = 5.85 lbs of CYA. If 1000 gallons of water evaporated & was replaced with 1000 gallons of fresh water, then the amount of CYA in the pool is the same (CYA does not evaporate) and the evaporated water has been replaced with fresh water, then the ratio of CYA to water is the same. However, the video at 5:25 states topping up the pool with fresh water will dilute & lower your CYA.
I dont understand what I'm looking at for the correct level. How do I know what the chart is reading. It goes from yellow fades up to red like the color of the drops I put in
Sounds like the pool testing kit I use with red drops. Put the drops in and shake the tube. Check the color. The one I use, light orange is what you want the pH to be. Yellow is too acidic. Red too alkaline.
The only way to reduce calcium hardness is to pump water out and refill with clean water. Or check your source water for high levels of carbonate hardness.
I have been watching videos, and they say floc reduces calcium. I'm trying to figure this out, too. The pool store told me there are ways to degrees calcium without draining. Plus if you drain you are just gonna refill it with your hard water
That’s almost like bio cell, it’s way more expensive and more of a pain to keep up on. In if you want to go back to chlorine. You’d have to drain pool clean really good and clean filter and pump. It’s not really worth going that route.
Excellent advice! I have a swg but until now I have been able to use 25 to 30 ppm CYA and maintaining 7.5% of free chlorine. So since 30ppm already gives a 98% protection per hour I am ok. I think using 60 to 80ppm would only increase kill times of bacteria etc. Some say however the swg has to work less so you would increase the life expectancy. On the other hand high levels of chlorine are not advisable for the pool (esp vinyl) and are not good for bather comfort. So my ideal CYA values is 25 to 30ppm. Thanks for this video!
Exactly what I do, except my unstabilized chlorine is made by a swg. CYA granules are a bit difficult to solve in a bucket but that's the only thing really. Some put these in a sock in the skimmer but I prefer to dilute first in a bucket and then slowly pour it in the pool right in front of a return at the deep end. You don't need a lot of CYA to add now and then.
Absolutely! Saltwater pools are really just chlorine pools with their own source of chlorine - but this is a low-level, residual source of chlorine that's designed to fight off everyday contaminants. Shock is still required for all the reasons mentioned in the video.
We are wondering about the 'DryTec 1-1901-24 Calcium Hypochlorite Chlorine Shock Treatment for Swimming Pools, 1-Pound' . It says on package to broadcast over water in pool, but some floated and some sank to bottom where we had to use the brush to stir up until it dissolved. Is it okay to dissolve in a bucket of water before pouring it in, even though it says not to do that, on the package? Is there any dangerous reason not to dissolve it first? Thanks!
Love your video, very helpful but have a customer who opening her pool she was adding loads of stabilised Chlorine granules instead of Shock, now her CNA is always very high, how can I lower this without emptying pool and adding fresh water ????
Thank you for the kind words. Unfortunately, you will need to at least partially drain the pool to see any significant decrease in CYA. It does break down by itself over time, but this process is very slow and not something you can afford to wait for given the effects of over-stabilization. You may also come across CYA decreaser but results are extremely mixed and not something we've ever had success with. Don't waste your money.
Hello, thanks for this amazing video. I live in mexico and we use underground water to fill the pool. Today i have fully emptied the pool and filled it again. Now the alkalinity level is way too high and the PH way too low. I put (ph dicreaser) to lower the alkalinity but it doesnt lower. How can i lower it without lowering the PH level? Many thanks for your help
Liquid chlorine doesn’t have any conditioner so your CYA level is remarkably stable year round. I switch to tabs in a floater only when away on vacation. This replenishes the little bit of stabilizer lost to splash out and carry out. Regular use of stabilized tablets is easily the most common trouble maker for the average homeowner.
I have a question about shocking a pool. I bought Clorox shock in one pound bags. They say in the instructions. "Broadcast in pool's deepest area with filter and pump on. Run filter and pump for 4-8 hours. DO NOT pre-dissolve. DO NOT add through skimmer or feeder, and DO NOT mix with other chemicals". My above ground pool is only one depth. When I add the powder it just sinks to the bottom which I believe caused my liner to fade in certain areas. Why not pre-dissolve? Is it better to use liquid chlorine for shock instead of powder to avoid this problem in the future?
It's difficult to say why those instructions are given for Clorox shock as that's not typically the norm. If it were me, I'd rather dissolve in a bucket than risk further liner damage but you should monitor the effectiveness of your shock treatment if going this route. I'd also agree with the other comment that liquid shock is probably a better solution in your case moving forward.
I am wondering the same thing about 'DryTec 1-1901-24 Calcium Hypochlorite Chlorine Shock Treatment for Swimming Pools, 1-Pound' . It says on package to broadcast over water in pool, but some floated and some sank to bottom where we had to use the brush to stir up until it dissolved. Is it okay to dissolve in a bucket of water before pouring it in, even though it says not to do that, on the package? Is there any dangerous reason not to dissolve it first? Thanks!
We wouldn't normally advise going against the manacturers instructions but if it's not working as intended, pre-dissolving in a bucket is certainly not a bad idea. Give it a try and let me know how it goes.@@debbannon354
I mean, you could. The problem is, if you shock whenever your free chlorine level is low, most of that extra chlorine will burn off within a few hours at very little benefit to you. Even worse, if you have lots of cyanuric acid in the water, much of that chlorine will stay in the water instead - which results in a very high (and probably unsafe) level for swimming. Basically, shocking every time is inefficient at best, and dangerous at worst.
Shock is much more expensive than chlorine and only lasts about 3 days. With shock you never have a stable chlorine level - just a huge spike and then a rapid fall back to zero. Shocking that often irritates swimmer’s skin and is harmful to equipment over time
Because high TA eventually raises pH along with it (due to carbon dioxide outgassing at a faster rate) and it will be even harder to lower it back down with such a strong buffer in place.
