Removed rear shock on my 2012 RT today. Took about 20 minutes. There is no need to remove any plastic. I removed rear wheel, exhaust with flapper valve, rear mudguard (front part, two bolts), plastic plate with two ESA connectors, to access second connector latch. That's it. T50 for bottom bolt, L-type T50 and M15 for upper bolt. RSD says same. T45 for exhaust. T20 for that plastic plate with connectors, described here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s-CcjziZPdY.html
I've had the older model as well, only for a few months though so I haven't really studied the footpeg design differences though. Wunderlich do state that their model should support 2005 and upwards, see www.wunderlich.de/en/ergo-footrest-lowering-rider-31410-001. As this is a direct copy I'd expect it to fit as well.
The name of a BMW after 2001 is more reliable than the bike itself. Too much electronic devices, sensors and stuff that can break a pleasant ride. Riding BMW's since 1985 from K75, R80, R1000RT, R850RT, R1100RT, R1150RT en now the 2010 DOHC R1200RT. ABS 2003-2007 not reliable and too expensive to repair. Best bike when its riding...Thats why I still have a BMW in the garage and a Triumph when the BMW has any failure.
It's from Touratech, it was already mounted when I got the bike. I've never seen it for sale actually, maybe they just made a small batch back in the days.
If there is hp improvement it's in the low to mid range. A free flow air filter in the box and a secondary inlet to the box would give the motor quicker spin up and better again low mid range. Top end is negligible. The real gain is looks,sound and a 12kg weght loss. The link pipe and slip on range from £159. -£189 from what I've seen. No idea where you've got £800-£1k from😂
I’m in The Netherlands, so I’m not of much help to you regarding where to buy unfortunately. I’ve seen good videos from the Beemershop however, maybe that helps?
Hola Te escribo desde Lima Perú Excelente tú video Justo se me malogro el Domingo pasado el amortiguador posterior De mi 1200 RT del 2010 Creo que es igual al que has comprado Aca en perú no hay dicho repuesto. Dime donde lo compraste y cuanto te Costo Gracias
Hi @bozperu3436, I've had to use Google Translate to be able to read your question but it seems you are looking for a replacement shock like the one I installed. I have no idea if you can get it in Peru, but the one I bought is from Wilbers, which is located in Germany. Another option might be Tractive (a bit more expensive) and I see those are sold by BeemerShop.com, which is a lot closer to your location. Good luck!
Hi @auphan3731, I'm not sure if the S version also already comes with the same software needed to use the quickshifter. You might want to check some forums for an answer.
Hello. Are you having any issues with your quickshifter? I have the exact same setup on mine. Had mine for about nine months. Just recently got it back from my dealer after a 12k mi. Service. Got it home no problem. Just completely stopped working now. Already took it off and re-adjusted it, no dice.
Mine didn't catch on any tabs, maybe slightly different version of bike? It should also be possible to remove the tank of course, maybe that's useful? Would be a bit of extra work though.
I have just ordered the 'Shifting Controll' version. It says something about it can be set up further using Tune ECU to adjust the kill time. Is yours just set to standard? Would it be worth playing with the timing to maybe make it even smoother?
Mine was left standard, and as the Triumph is preconfigured to be used with quickshift it all worked great. Maybe if you're really specific in your needs you could get more out of it using a tune, but for me it was perfectly fine.
I’m not sure if/how you can adjust the shift pedal, but that part won’t be replaced by this mod. Only the shift link is replaced, everything else remains the same. Hope my answer helps
Still working perfectly. If the prices were a bit more inline with each other I’d bought the Triumph branded one, but as it was more than twice as expensive and essentially is the exact same thing… go for this one.
@@darknessawaits Thank you. it would be interesting to hear it without db killer. have you tried it? Are there any performance improvements? definitely less weight. I would like to buy it but the price is not really cheap
@@tony8236 It's stated as a 2 hp improvement, but I'd say it's neglectable. It's certainly less heavy, but would you really notice when mounted on such a heavy bike? Probably not. I've mounted it for sound and looks - and yes, it is expensive. Even when bought second hand. But if you want it, go for it!
@@darknessawaits I managed to find it at half price in good condition. I also listened to the sound without the db killer and I must say that it's not bad. need to see if there are problems to go this way for the law. the alternative at the same price was gpr arrow
Bike was running whats the issue, you turned it off when it was running. Happened once on my 2009 riding all day in massive rain. Never happened again. Honda, reallly. Honda is under engineered bikes. Not even on the same level as an RT
It was running, but was also showing to have issues. Turned it off, tried to diagnose it to no avail and rode another 50 km. Warnings came back. Eventually got it deliver to the dealer, who could only find ABS error codes whilst nothing appeared to be wrong with the ABS system. Electrical gremlins it seemed, which went away when all rainwater had evaporated. So that’s the full story, I don’t know what your deal with Honda is however.
@@darknessawaits I had the exact same issue after a serious rain ride for hours. It was very strange and never occurred again. I think it was a ground issue or a CANBUS issue. Check all your brown wire ground connections for corrosion. A leaky CANBUS connector could have temporarily shorted with rain then with the engine heat evaporated the moisture. Hard to find.
Is it just for upshifts or does it work both directions? I think for this year (same as mine) they’re only set up to do upshifts. I wish I could find a dual direction that didn’t cost a fortune.
Yes, it only works for upshifts. You’ll have to look at newer Street Triples for the autoblip/quickshift down or get an aftermarket solution like Powercommander has.
hello friend congratulations for the video, you are of real help. but i noticed you bought the quickshifter pull. Does your bike have the original gearbox with the first at the bottom? I would like to know which one should I buy for the original gearbox. PUSH OR PULL?
Hi Angelo, I have the original gearbox/gear selection sequence. You need the PULL model for this. Reasoning is as follows: as you push your gear selector up to shift up, the linkage will itself be pulled.
@@Angelo.Fiorenzano94, I'm not sure what you mean by "buy it complete with auction", but the link to what I've bought is: shifter-france.com/13-shifter-triumph-660-675-765.html
I've ordered the part here: shifter-france.com/13-shifter-triumph-660-675-765.html. It costed me 158 euro at the time, I see the price went up to 169 euro now.
I can't do anything about that for you (or myself) unfortunately: "RU-vid will Start Putting Ads on NON-MONETIZED Videos... While Not Paying The Creators...". I have NO monetization enabled on any of my videos so what you get is what RU-vid gives to all of us.
Interessting. I had the same on my 2006 RT. If the brake servo works, the idle speed slows down and the rattling noise of the motor gets louder. On my 1150 RT with the same brake Servo system, there is no different in normal idle and idle + working brake servo...
