I'm just a guy who comes across a lot of broken machinery and equipment. Sometimes I take videos of what I am doing if I think it might help or be of interest to someone.
I had one where the sump bolts were very loose. I replaced the gasket, put it all back together, and mowed a few hours. The next time the mower was used, the governor grenaded. The pin the that the governor gear rotates on is pressed in, and had worked itself out of the hole a few millimeters. I tapped it down with a hammer and replaced the governor. So far so good. Hopefully this helps someone. I think maybe it got low on oil because of the loose bolts and bad gasket, and the governor gear fused to that pin and wiggled it loose.
John, great video. I have one question; I have an older LT 1018 and I can't seem to be able to remove the bearing cups (races) from the spindle housing and I don't want to damage the inner housing. How did you remove yours?
I used the press in our garage/shop to both remove and install the bearings on this one. You can also use an air hammer or a punch and hammer with the spindle held in a vice. They can be tight and it's important to drive evenly to keep the races / cups straight in the bores.
I just googled 1/4 compressor start valve and picked one that looked like what I had. Grainger, Amazon, eBay, likely a local industrial supply house if you have one. It is unclear to me if there are different "settings" or spring strengths or if all the valves are the same.
My BS V-twin just developed this oil leak problem after 16-years. I am sure it happened due to repeated heating events caused by mice building homes under the shroud! Why doesn't someone offer better gaskets? A reinforced gasket should stop the failure in it's tracks.
I am not sure that the issue is the gasket itself and not something with the case halves. The problem takes some time to occur and after repeated heating and cooling paired with vibrations, leaks begin.
It is a pretty busy road and the wildlife does unfortunately find their way out there. We try to keep the brush mowed back off the road so drivers have a chance to see an animal ahead.
Cost will always depend on your shop rate. This one was really quick and I had it back on the mower within a couple of working hours. There was also the setup time for the sealer and we did a quick turnaround for the customer which is worth something too.
The biggest problem with them is the plastic manifold not sealing which makes you think it’s the carb bad Use a little Right Stuff silicone and let it dry good
I tend to stay away from sealers on carbs and intakes, but I've had pretty good success with Seal All and Motoseal. You are correct about the plastic though, it creeps or distorts over time and ends up causing a vacuum leak.
I suspect that I will never wear mine out. For the amount I plan to use it and the price I couldn't go wrong. If I end up using it enough to wear something out I'll consider upgrading then. So far, so good. Several projects, many cuts and still the original blade.
Remove the bolts and a few taps on the cover with a soft face mallet did the trick. Some covers you need to drive out the locating dowels, others can stay in. This one used hollow locators and they were fine to leave in.
So command for sump leaks you would think people would use spray on gasket sealer. That is what I use. Love to know how well the RTV held up. If I use RTV I would not have used the gasket.
This was ultra black permatex which I've had success with in the past. Eliminating the gasket could result in reduced crankshaft endplay so I'd use caution doing that. Permatex chief is my normal go to for gaskets. There are lots of products out there that would work just the same most likely.
BS had a lot of problems with oil leakers , I worked for a hardware store that sold snapper mowers, we changed a lot of engines because of oil leaks , it’s a bad design
I have a regular customer who has put them in each of his engines at about 500 hours. One engine in particular we have had apart 3 or 4 times at this point. We've tried sealers and different gasket combinations to no real long term success. He's trying to get it to a point where he can trade up to something different.
I bought one up a couple months back. I like it. It works well. Been using hobo freight blades too. They not bad. Yes it sucks won't fit back in case. It cut crooked out of the box .I had to square the plate/guide to the blade with a washer. Overall it's great for the money
This double valve fix my problem!! I thought it was the capacitor but, it was just the valve, I try just one and didn’t work, then I tried the tee with two new valves and it worked!! I try it at 30 degrees and it started smooth.
Sounds like your saw is struggling it either needs a tuneup or the chain is dull something isn’t right you should run wide open through that tree as dry as it looks
@@JB_Service_Co. I was just giving my input I know those 395s can run a 36” bar with ease just sounded like it was struggling, your brave running that saw with one hand kick back would be hell lol
@@TheBabbsFamily7 I have pulled a 32 without any trouble at all and have no doubt a 36 would do just as well. I stopped where I did because I was getting close to burying the tip. Much less risk of a kick when you're in the straight part of the bar. One handed is still not smart I admit.
This is a good tip. I wasn’t aware of the valve. I’d suggest you also change your oil to 0w synthetic. I changed mine after my compressor wouldn’t start when it was cold. The old oil was way too thick. Now it starts up without hesitation in cold winter temperatures below 20 degrees F.
Maybe it doesn't matter in the relatively short life of these but there is not 0w compressor oil. I have read many people though just run any type of engine oil though.
I thought about changing the oil to something lighter but a compressor really should have non-detergent oil since there is not filtration. With the additional start valve I have not had any issues with 30wt compressor oil down into the low teens. I also try not to need to work on things when it is cold outside but of course that's when the tires are low too.
@@mazamike We tend to try to fix what we have at the farm and half the time that is how we acquired the equipment in the first place. This one was pretty straightforward and I think the extra valve was under $10.
I have the same exact mower and it just started leaking. I've had it for about 9 years now. Do you have the part number for that gasket! So glad I found this video! I thought the block cracked!.
I have the 44" roller cabinet. I agree with the handle problem. When fully loaded, the handle flexes, which is kinda sketchy sometimes. Also I don't like the fact that the drawer close is almost of a "double click" style, because if you don't push on all of your drawers to make sure they're closed before locking them, you could come back the next day and find that even though the rest of the box is locked, a random drawer was not locked because the back of the drawer did not catch the locking mechanism because it was not fully closed.
I do not remember what the depth was on this pass but I guarantee it was not 1/2”. The planer could certainly do it but the surface finish would suffer.
Thanks for the offer! But I got my motor all wrapped up over the summer. I think I needed the exhaust pipe pattern? I don't remember, but I must've got it eventually!
