Learn about maintaining your power lawn equipment. The main focus of this channel will be on riding mower repair and servicing. I will also have videos covering other equipment such as snow blowers and lawn mowers. I will also cover various other gas powered machines. I like troubleshooting problems and finding solutions, so I will be going into problems you may encounter and how to repair them. Most of the machines I will be working on will be types and brands that the average homeowner would own.
lots of lawn mower in the yard. I noticed that you made some repair video for these lawn mowers and Hipa gets some parts for lawn mowers and other outdoor power equipment. May I ask are you up for a collaboration? Hipa supplies parts for small engines and maybe we would work together to help more people in the community.
Nice video. Thanks for sharing My 2012 420cc B&S surges up and down. I replaced the carb and coil. No change. Then I noticed the governor arm swings back and forth when engine is running. Valves working properly and compression at spec. I'm thinking to convert the throttle to manual operation and leave the choke mechanism the same. Replacing the governor requires buying the entire bottom of the case and is quite expensive. Is there somewhere I can just buy the governor/gear and bottom seal? This is used for a small yard and really doesn't have that many hours on it. I change the oil and filter yearly. My manual says to set top rpm to 3000. Should I also replace the cam if I replace governor.
I would concentrate more on the idle circuit of your carb. even though it may be new, they are made to run so lean, that they just don't get enough gas
I haven't worked on one of those Chinese piece of c*** engines yet, but normally the linkage the governor Spring hooks to, on the carburetor can be removed by advancing the throttle blade enough(open)the linkage will just lift out. Then you can slide the carburetor off and tip it to get the other linkage out the choke lever. That is the way most of them work. Good luck. I don't like yelling at my TV when I see you do things. I completely rebuilt my 23-year-old MTD riding mower. And they are not junk. They turn into junk when people mistreat, or don't do maintenance!
I am familiar with the carb linkage you are talking about. There was simply no way to just slide this off the studs. These newer machines are nothing like a 23 year old MTD. There is not many sold today that are homeowner grade that will last 20 plus years. They are just not engineered to last long like they used to be. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video, my belt was too loose when i pushed the lever forward, causing the blades to take a long time to rotate at full speed. I assume replacing this cable is the fix since there was a lot of play in the lever.
Hi, it could be a stretched cable, but more likely is that the belt is worn. When belts wear, they can actually get thinner which allows them to go deeper into the pulleys. This means that the effective diameter of each pully is smaller. This causes the belt to become loose because it is now too long for the distance it needs to be to fit around the pulleys. Thanks for watching.
On another one of my RU-vidr channels he was showing there's a screen in the input where the gas goes in. you turn out that loosen that elbow behind that elbow is a screen inside the carburetor and his was plugged I have one of these Troy-Bilt and all I've had is trouble I'll subscribe to you thank you brother video
I have seen a video from a while ago, where someone showed a screen behind an inlet fitting. That was not the problem here though, gas was getting into the carb, just not through it. Thanks for subscribing.
That would work temporarily, I actually have ordered the OEM style fuel line clamps. they work best on the small hoses, and look original which is better when showing it to a buyer.
I find weathly people lie the most and broke people are usually honest with me, if it turns out to be a really good mower I go by and tip them 😊😊😊. It’s the right thing to do for honest people ❤
Yes, I saw the plastic screw and figured it was under there. That would have been my next step, however, it ran smooth so I don't think there was an idle circuit problem.
I'm terribly sorry that happened to you. Maybe you can get a motor for it and it not be outrageously expensive. I would have said I'll go get a gas can because if I can't drive it on my trailer I don't want it.
Hi, thanks for your concern, but watch the video in the link and see how it turns out. I repair and sell these myself, this is supposed to be an example and a warning for others. thanks for watching.
Hey, thanks foe watching and paying attention. I saw that when I did my final edit, but it was too late. This mower will be gone over by the next owner before going into service.
You can actually remove those big wire ties without cutting them. Take the sharp tip of a knife blade and get behind the little latch on the wire tie and hold it open and then pull it off. Great video...
Good catch, I was really just focused on seeing if it would run enough to test it out. The next owner is going to completely go over this mower. I was not getting it in "ready to mow" condition. Thanks for watching.
very informative video. Lots of repair videos on your channel, Are you up for a collaboration? Hipa supplies parts for small engines and maybe we would work together to help more people in the community.
@@ridingmowerking Hi ridingmowerking, I can provide you with free parts you need to reduce your cost of repair and maybe we can make videos sharing repairing tips there to help the novices and also introducing these affordable parts to your audiences if you think they are share-worthy.
It is definitely more crowded. I have been doing this about 18 years and there are more people gerring into this every year. It takes a lot of energy, which I am running low on. But the biggest challenge is finding good engines.
Isn't there supposed to be a little metal plate in-between the outer brake shoe and the pins? That would account for the relatively small wear on the shoes themselves. That metal plate acts like a shim so the pins stand proud, and the brake shoes are functionally thicker. 🤔
You are correct. The metal plate was in the housing the whole time. I did not take it out, and I totally forgot to mention it. It's nice to see that people are actually watching my videos. I will get better at making them. I hope.
How true. I have a 110 mig welder and it does not do well on thin metal, burns through to easy. The 240 welder seems to have better control, even for thin metal.
I have the exact same engine in my lawn tractor. I replaced the intake, 3rd carb!, all filters and the rpm still goes up and down and up and down. I tried to ajust the governor and catb but now it runs rough. Any suggestions?
Hi, the up an down is usually a lean condition in the idle circut of the carb. By now you should have had a good carb. The running rough maybe due to the choke not opening all the way. Make sure you have the sprimg on the rod going to the throttle arm on the carb. Possibly you have a worn.out cam. Take off the valve cover and check the valve adjustments. Also turn the engine over by hand, easier with spark plug removed. While turning, pay attention to the rocker arms. Watch for the valve lift. Make sure the valves are opening far enough. I ha e seen where a cam.lobe wears out and the valve will barely open.
If I am working on something for a personal friend, I would go with a briggs and stratton, or Oregon, Stens, or Rotary. these are suppliers that most Repair shop would order parts from. If you just want to get one for the lowest price, then Amazon is the place. I have bought plenty of carbs from Amazon. I have had pretty good luck with them. The key thing to look for, is the reviews. Look for a high number of reviews. see if there is a pattern of negative reviews. read them. some negative reviews are not a defect with the part, sometimes the problem was shipping, communication, or the purchaser.
It's not much fun when that brake gives up the ghost.. I stopped our lawn tractor (Husqvarna LT151) on an incline on our driveway to have a few words with my dad when it failed, and before I knew what was happening I was going backwards at the speed of light (or it felt like it at at that moment 😅) all I could do was to look over my shoulder ad steer to avoid going off the road an having a bad accident.. the most difficult par was getting the bolts the helt the calliper ot as they where stuck in there good, but I got them out without snapping them or stripping the threads, but I did it.. had to order a pipe socket from the US as the calliper bolt where 3/8" and and could not find one anywhere in Europe . The pins where stuck and I had to Soake on of them I penetrating oil overnight, the pads/pucks had done their duty an then some.. All in all not to difficult to understand and do.
Wow, I'm glad it worked out for you. I should have talked about the bolts being hard to get out, maybe the next time. Easier to demonstrate when it is actually a problem. The brakes on these are easily overlooked. They could stick and get worn out while you are mowing, then all of a sudden, no brakes.
@@ridingmowerking Yes, it would be a good idea to mention and show if you come across a brake repair where the bolts are stuck/seized inn there good if you do another breake repair video, there is quite a few lawn tractor brake repair videos out there on RU-vid.. but few if any mention the possibility of the bolts being hard to get out.. I'm not a mechanic by profession, I work i retail and didn't use have the confidence that I could do this kind of stuff. My dad blew up his Stihl Ms391 chainsaw and got a new one and blew that one up as well.. he thought he had overworked it, but after the second and brand new saw gave ut the ghost we found out that the pre-mixed 2-stroke gas he bought had next to no oil in it (he usually mixes his own gas) I did a top end rebuild on the saws and got them running again. We figured as the saws where toast anyway we didn't have anything to loose other than a bit of cash.. I cant really get any worse than it was, and that took a bit of the "scare" factor away 😁 and It's quite fun when you find out that you can do something you never dreamed you could do! With the brake job I had the fortune that a customer where I work is a janitor at a co-op housing estate and handy with mechanical stuff and I could pick his brain about the problem.. he told me to heat the bolts and smack them a few times with a hammer, and he told me that when I felt them come loose that I had to resist the temptation of trying to unscrew that straight away, and that i should work the bolts back and forth until the loosened up, If I tried to unscrew them straight away I'd most likely either brake the bolts of strip the threads!
Thanks for the video, the dealer is Not one I would do business with, the oil and “transmission “ problem was a pitch to sell a crap mower worth a lot less than the one he had. JD used to be good now they are overpriced garbage.
So, you're telling me that you watched that much of the video, and you were focused on a valve stem. Well, thank you for watching and actually paying attention. but seriously, thanks for watching. The wheel offset is almost the same, I guess so that you can flip them around if you want to add wheel weights and still have access to the valve stems.
