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It's great to hear a voice from my long past. At 70, I grew up in Huntington Beach, knowing all the names. I started surfing in 1963, and by 1973, I started building bikes and created the "California Beach Cruiser" bike in Newport Beach and Huntington Beach, so I have a long relationship with surfing and bikes.
Sound and waves are the vibrations we tap into. Listening to music and surfing has been at the center of my universe since a little boy. Thanks Robert for sharing your thoughts!
Arto was such an inspiration for skateboarding when I was a teenager. Fast forward 22 years his photography is extremely inspiring as a photographer. Thanks Arto🤙
George had his bits and pieces of of wow aint that briliant like many others but im sorry saying George has been over rated. I love the guy. Chris Brock he has been underrated. Real Chris majic guy.
Great interview of a legend that's so humble and authentic. Also being so self aware about life's challenges with a passion to help guide and mentor others going through it. Legend in and out of the water.
"Divine" - a person I never knew personally, but a name on many photos that I was very familiar with as a kid tearing through the latest Surfer Magazine. Thank you Jeff and TSJ for sharing all of the wonderful places that many of us can only dream about!
He was surfing up by the light house, and when he got out of the water he wasn't feeling good at all. His family has a history with heart problems, so a few of his friends started driving him to somewhere (i don't actually know where, but i'd assume either his house or South Hampton hospital) . Right as they were passing the Crows Nest, he had a heart attack. Rest in peace.
Inspiring! 👍🏼 Whether we remember specific rides or not...I believe we all have images of those "Magic Moments" burned into our minds that keep us coming back for more.
Ending about the 1:11:00 mark where Mr. Clark was describing the differential inherent strength in the blank caused by gravity - I have noticed this too and thought of it as a kind of crust as in a loaf of bread; where the crust is much harder and more dense and thus stronger than the softer interior foam. I didn't know that crust effect was due to the effects of gravity. But makes me wonder if they ever tried spin casting the plugs to us centrifugal force on the entire plug and possibly extend the depth of the stronger foam more deeply into the blank? I'd be surprised if it were that simple but the existence of the stronger exterior seems to imply there is room for improvement if that characteristic could be controlled - perhaps by a pulsed energy of some kind that travels into the interior and affects the curing and size and density of the polyurethane.
Here's a story: after WWII a group of young, talented, and ambitious people connected to the aerospace industry in SoCal take their knowledge and follow their passions into surfboard construction; AND SPAWN 60 years of garage and independent innovation, knowledge passed down word of mouth, and it has evolved into the global thing that surfboard construction is. I'm talking about Hobie, Simmons, G&S, Clark, and then Lis and Frye, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, OC. And all the computers and modern science analysis has only contributed minute refinements, mostly in consistency (I'm guessing Darren Pang doesn't need the computer to get his shapes how he wants them or to understand the tradeoffs in his boards; how did he learn that?). Think of all the problem solving and innovation these guys worked through over the years. For me, the people involved in this story are way more impressive than our billion dollar CEO's (disconnected from everything normal people go through) because they did it outside the corporate system that seems to be gobbling up our world. I'd love to see someone tell it straight, in a nice, thoughtful and quiet way. Take it from the man.
He was a dick in the water but I always enjoyed yarning with him away from the surf. I'm embarrassed to say he spoke to me after his face got rearranged in that fight and I didn't recognise him. I hope I get to see him again and apologise. He's been in my life since I was a grom.
Wow - such an important conversation - nice to have a humane voice to the Grubby legacy - intelligent and insightful - an important part of the surfing evolution - I now don't see Grubby as a disgruntled crank - but a tough and shrewd businessman - he deserves a second interview and more - got so much to say that hasn't been said before - (fills in the blanks, as it were) thanks gent, thoroughly enjoyable podcast, GRATEFUL to you both !
