Damn mines leaking at the crimp just noticed it this week and lost all the AC fluid. Cant find a spare parts discontinued. Ill keep looking! Wonder if its possible to repair it.
Honestly remove it ! Take it to a local hydraulic shop or HVAC shop they should be able to recipe it for you ! And or solder it / repair I’ve done that before
Depends on place I’d assume no more $200-$350 as book time isn’t that long as less than 3 hours at MOST and and with machines and fluids it might vary, hope that helps
My GranSport is having issues with the AC. It is blowing warm air. Did you have problems with your AC after having your Gransport. Would I just need to buy freeon? or AC need to recharged? I don't know just researching.
OMG Sir, thank you so much for publishing this video. I bought a 2006 Maserati Gransport last year. And today, the battery was dead ...dead. I could get the trunk open. I was so upset. I started researching the manual.. nothing then I checked youtube and found your video. I only had to remove the light on the left side but you have to be sure to pull the rubber cover down as well the license plate light. I didn't need to take the whole thing out. Used my fingers to and the gauged the position of the key and found the lever and turning the key and it popped open. OMG.. thank you so much. This saved me. I am going to buy that Maserati battery tender and I also checked back in the manual and it tells you how to disconnect the battery if you are not going to drive the car for a while. Thank you again for publishing this video.
I’m happy to hear ! Glad it it can help people ! No one was able to help me and I just want to continue it forward ! 😇 make sure to subscribe and like some other videos if you can also to help ! Also I have other Gransport videos coming out soon I haven’t posted !
@@DrivenGarage I do have a question about your trunk setup. Did you do any modifications to by pass the automatic locking mechanism to allow you to get in. My Dad, is wanting to disable the auto lock to make it manual. Are you doing this if so, what has been your experience so far?
so if you dont want it to be automatic, first you could disconnect the electronic connector that goes to the power the actuator, or remove the fuse. Also you could just remove the power trunk actuator all in one and leave the locking mechanism, there are a couple different options. Let me know if that helps @@paulaadkinson8628
Thanks for video man my motor went bad and after replacing every part but the motor and being on the phone with customer service 10 times before they would send me a new one I finally replaced it and my dumb self forgot to put the little 3 prong pitch fork in the speed module and couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t travel and after watching this it clicked. Working good now
I didn't notice any telltale grease on my axle boots, but I'm hearing an occasional clicking from the rear when I drive Were there any other signs from yours when this happened?
My neighbor's had the 4-1 code and problem was the travel module in his Chamberlain MyQ unit. I just took it off the opener and opened the module by disengaging the tabs on the sides with a flat screwdriver, removing the 2 gears, and sprayed the oil inside with brake fluid and cleaning as fast as possible since I didn't have electronic cleaner spray. I reinstalled the gears and closed it back and voila. I reinstalled it and it worked again. Inside the travel module you'll find the so called RPM gear and sensor you could find in other older models but out in the open. It seems the oil messes up the sensor when reading the RPMs and the garage door can't recognize the closing/opening and/or the force to open/close adjustment. His door opened al the wayy but when closing was only moving 1 or 2 feet and opening back again. Try to save some money and clean it first.
Yes so you can use the control arm and a jack to slowly compress it, no tools are needed additional like when compressing a spring on a quick strut or strut and spring assembly
That would be the rear “center” lower control arm, but some people will just call it the lower control arm, but there is a trailing arm also. Hope that helps !
@@DrivenGarage I really appreciate i had a transmission mechanic tell me it was the control arm making a noise but when i replaced those and the trailing I could still hear it imma try this when (when I have extra money lol) but thanks for the info sorry for the late response
@@kevinleon9408 so you have everything but the silver seat belts and silver emblem ? But your window sticker for sure says 10 series and the VIN matches ?
Thank you for the step by step instructions. I have the exact same unit. I had no clue what broke or how to fix it. I took the cover off, unplugged the harness and removed the defective part. I ordered the replacement part and it indeed snapped right in. Works perfectly now. By the way 5 1/2 years on that module. That is just ridiculous!
@@starbuckk4 I don’t think it was that hard to reach or do , if anything just loosening it up at first maybe but it wasn’t that bad. We’re you able to find it ?
First move your driver side seat forward fully, then pull the handle to gain access fully to the rear seat. Under the left hand side of the rear passenger seat there is a small release cable. you'll need to feel underneath the seat to find it. (It's next to a retaining bolt) Pull on the cable (it's going to require quite a pull) to release the lock in the latch assembly of the trunk
Im struggling with this right now as far as fishing the line goes. Is it just as easy as removing the upper radiator hose and fishing through the top? or did you come up from the bottom? I have not disconnected the upper rad hose yet but I will if thats the case. I was going to try to take off the steering shaft next.
Both can work too or bottom and yes sometimes doing the hose works also don’t forget you can bend the pipe a little slowly to fit it between things and then resend it back etc. I did NOT have to take the steering shaft off. Patience and looking for angles to pull it through helps.
It can happen due to broken spring. If you have two car garage and Wayne Dalton spring system then ine if them can be broken thus putting force on travel module. You can check spring by disconnecting the trolley and manually opening the door, with working springs it should stop at almost any position. With one broken spring and one working Liftmaster still can open the door with manual adjuatment but will have issues on closing. So you should check springs too. The error code is usually 4-1
I live in las Vegas NV and my garage gets to be 110* or hotter in the summer because it faces the west and the sun beats down from 12:00 noon till 7:00 pm .And even though my door is insulated and attic as well. It has a tendency to cook electronics .And control boards .My travel module went out after six years .
