Many forget to remove the stock air clear support at the back, so the new replacement will fit properly. In some instances you have to take off the tank to get at the bolts.
I bought this and installed in according to directions included. I went on a long ride and I noticed the bike was acting a little weird, like I was losing traction. My wife taps my shoulder and tells me that her leg was burning. I stopped the bike and there was oil all over the right side of the bike. This product siphoned the oil out my engine at 70 mph. I took it off immediatly and put the stock cap back on before I lost any more oil. Waste of money. Needless to say, my engine is toast and being replaced as I type this.
I havent installed mine yet im going to put route mine under the seat and tie it off to the rr shock bolt on my FLHT, will also put an inline fuel filter with a paper filter to catch any oil mist
Did you only install the 30/30 cam and everything else back stock or what all parts did you do wanting to do this to my 2020 electra glide standard already have done air filter true dual exaust and vance and Hines tuner. Any info would be appreciated thx.
Been watching all kinds of videos on this subject. Kevin Baxter, a supreme Harley mechanic on YT is all for dipstick and Trask type breathers. He showed a 107 that started sumping and the lifters starved of oil and almost lost the whole engine. The epa almost sued HD for not going to this crappy system. Bought a Low Rider S 117 and will definitely go for one of these. Yours is a nice bike for sure.
Exactly. I tried the exact same filter, and not Roland Sands. Cost 100 bucks. Everything looked exact until I tried to install the breather bolts. They were too big, even though it was supposed to be an exact match. Plus there were no instructions, or extra seals. Fortunately it was just a matter of sending it back. Sometimes if it looks or sounds too good to be true it usually is.
Hey, before you connected the filter it would have been nice to fire it up and see, feel, hear the flow of air at idle and maybe rev it a bit. Nice Vid!
Just passing along some information I have for those who need some. 8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder 8.5:1-9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder 9.5:1-11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder 11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)
I bought the S&S 55mm, I plan on polishing the ports. Got the main intake almost done . Jug ends to be done next.I used sanding drums variing in size. You use the size at your discretion, coarse to light sanding rings .
No you didn’t miss I just didn’t have time to edit it and kinda gave up but I’m doing it over again and filming it I’m doing a step my step big bore build well my vision thank you
@@capecodbiker9902 Thanks for getting back to me. You’ve had no issues using just the washers? I’m asking because I ordered one yesterday that says it fits my 2010 FLHTK. Just watched your video today to find out any issues I might run into. You’ve been very helpful.
The intake ports on the S&S being bigger is less of a bottleneck then on the SE, specially on a 114 with stock heads, at least in theoryCheck out George Bryce’s video on this exact topic. Info starts at 11:15 mark. BTW, this video helped me out a lot👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j0sw91P0zd4.html
The baffles give a nice deep crack without them to me it’s very loud thanks for watching I swapped out to a fab28 2into 1 pipe. Because if performance. But I loved the sound of those werks
