To be honest if you have to ask I would say don't attempt this. If you are not confident in working with electronic equipment best to get someone who is to do any repairs.
Hello, mines sound like it's underwater, i tried removing the wires from its pcb and attach them to a junk bluetooth headphone pcb and they work properly. I think it has something to do with the audio port since only left side work when i plug it all the way through and if it's like in the middle both left and right earcups work. I also suspect the resistor and capacitor but I'm not advanced enough to diagnose them. I've tried replacing the audio port with a new one and ended up scrapping the soldering pads. Do you happen to know where can i get the same pcb for this headphones? I can't seem to find one even on the chinese shopping apps. I'm thinking of modding the headset to be bluetooth if i can't find the original pcb board but I'm having issues on where to put the new pcb and battery. Idk what to do anymore.
Nice and informative video. I just got one of these for free. The cover over the tape head is missing though. When I plug it in, the meters light up but when I try play, fast forward, etc - nothing happens. Now that I know how to pull it apart, I will check for capacitor leakage. I don't want to spend money on it at this time but if I can narrow the potential problems down, I might make that decision in the future. Also, I don't have a tapes to play at the moment.
The tiny PCB inside has both left and right wires leading to it (marked L&R) if you aren't getting sound out of the left check these are not detached if they are okay check the wires at the speaker. Be careful as the wires are very thin so you don't want to be knocking off the others and giving yourself more work. If all the wires are connected correctly and you still have no sound check the continuity between the speaker and the PCB to see if there is a break in the wire. Another thing to check is that the volume wheel hasn't got oxidised if you turn the volume wheel up and down does it crackle and does the sound cut in and out if it does the volume control might need cleaning.
@@martin-uz1pyI’m looking at the jack pcb and I see that the middle orange wire looks peeled and a little shredded but is still connected what do I do?
@@ant9100I should say that anything you do is at your own risk as a disclaimer but If it is attached it is probably okay. I would also try another set of speakers if I had them in the PC/console or what ever I was using these in to make sure it was not an issue with the PC/console. But if everything is connected okay and the sound doesn't cut in and out when you move the volume wheel I don't know what the issue could be maybe it's the speaker itself is broken but I can't help with that. Sorry.
Good video. I bought a JVC JLA40 new back in 1978 at a high end stereo shop in Fort Walton Beach Florida. The queuing system broke several years ago but other than that, the turntable still worked flawlessly. With recent 3-D printing and replica OEM parts, found the broken part that I needed on eBay. Along with 500k grease for a soft landing, the queuing system is back like original. Love this turntable, coupled with a Nagaoka MP-110 and a Schitt Mani phono preamp coupled to a tube pre amp, sounds amazing!!
I got a Rheem Califone open reel for a crisp 1 dollar bill at a barn sale because i knew how to thread the tape Waiting for a ceiling fan cap to replace the old paper and oil one that was in it, made in 1968
I particularly like the hack on the cueing lever shaft! That's not "original equipment" at all, and it was completely missing on my JLA40. At least now I can see what you did!! Thank You!!!
I just got a Sony TC-155 and it's got similar components and parts to this model. Mine played fine for 1 and then 1/2 of a 3" reel and then it just all of a sudden in the middle of playing bogged down to a crawl. There was a hot oil/grease smell throughout the entire time I was running it. The motor was scalding hot when I took the cabinet off. What could be the problem? It had no audio hum or any bad sounds the whole time it was playing and sounded very nice, then it just went kaput and slowed down. No leaky caps.
I knew my issue was the start cap because it had spilled its guts all over the inside of the machine. You could try to replace yours but from what you describe it could be the motor itself.
As a disclaimer I can't be responsible for any damage you cause when following this video, what you do you do at your own risk. However here are my thoughts. Just to check I guess you are talking about the foam part, all I can say is that it should just be fixed with 4 magnets they are quite strong but both foam cups should be removable. My only suggestion is try putting your finger nail inside the cup right by the speaker grill at either the top or bottom of the cup if you slide your nail up the plastic away from the speaker grill you should be able to feel a gap in the plastic. Get your finger nail into this gap and try there. I hope this helps out. If you feel like its still going to break I am afraid it is up to you if you continue to try to pull it off or not.
@@martin-uz1py they sent me a complete replacement yesterday with a new amp and everything so I'm not too bothered if it breaks, just thought I could salvage my old one for little brother
I’ve just bought this very same unit today and looking forward to restoring it. Your repair looks to be good practice on such an old machine, so will do likewise on mine. I’m UK too so will get the cap ordered next week. Great work! 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment. It's a nice self-contained system. I have read pros and cons for replacing parts before they need fixing but when this cap spills its guts it makes a hell of a mess, I was amazed mine even still worked after looking inside it. Good luck with your restoration project.
Do you remember your uncle having a reputation of never smiling much? One source informs that people around him in boxing noticed he usually had a sad facial expression. Was he just a naturally serious person, did he have a lot of worries on his mind or did he suffer from depression? It seems unfortunate, if true, for a great athlete to be unhappy.
I just bought an old fully automatic JVC and I cannot get the reject mechanism to work properly. I can get it to work once every 15 tries, but not consistantly.
I still have the original head and cartridge on my JLA40. I just took it out of storage from the 80's. Can you advise me of a good cartridge/needle i can use and still keep the head shell. Thanks.
Hi this is always subjective, but for my use (and budget) I have an audio-technica AT95E. The TT originally came to me with a Goldring G820 but this used to skip so I changed it out. I'm sure others will disagree with this choice ;)
Hi I got my JL A40 out of storage after 25 years and found it had the same problem although I don't remember it being that way. I spent a lot of time trawling the net looking for a replacement part with no luck, then I came across your video and decided to give repairing it a go, with success! My turntable works like it was new. Thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video I would never have thought of your solution
My pleasure and well done on fixing your TT, judging by the amount of people who have this same issue with what seems quite a common TT I'm surprised that nobody has made and sold a 3d printed part for it.
I owned a JL-A40 for at least +20 years and it´s the best turntable I owned so far. Still going strong with normal maintenance ie lubrication and a new cartridge.
judging by the amount of hits this video has this cueing cam seems to be an issue as the TT gets older, fingers crossed yours holds up for another 20 years.
Working perfect with 3d printed part? Do you use a special kind of plastic in the making? Is it possible for you to send med a copy of the file? I know nothing about 3d printing, but i guess a schematic is a good start. :) skip(dot)zero(at)yahoo(dot)no
Wow, thanks for posting this. I picked up one of these a couple days ago - the exact same model with the exact same problem. I just completed the repair. I used a 1/32" drill bit in the Dremel tool to drill the holes for the pins and then cut a couple short pieces off the shank of the drill bit to serve as the pins. I'm going to let the glue cure overnight and then reassemble it in the morning. This is the second JVC JL-A40 I have owned. Other than this particular problem, they are well-built, good performing, reliable vintage tables. The the metal hinges and mounting plates for the dust cover are a nice touch and the stock mat is very nice.
@@martin-uz1py I'm listening to it now (Van Morrison - Moondance). The repair works perfectly and the table sounds great. While I had it apart, I also cleaned out and replaced the old grease and added some 500K weight silicone to the cueing rod. Prior to doing so, the arm was dropping like a rock. Now it slowly and gently lowers the needle. When I got this table, it was filthy, but it cleaned up very well and looks great. It really is a handsome table. The combination of gloss black top deck and brushed silver front panel makes it a great match for both modern and vintage gear.
