There is a little tab on the back of the original ignition cylinder. I’ll be willing to bet that the tab that turns the actual ignition switch behind it is broken off … I’ve changed out a few of them with those Chrysler ignitions.
After 3 mos of my 98 crown vic not starting after replacing everything , the only way it starts was with the screwdriver jump... just need to bypass ignition to drive it to mechanic for a diagnosis. Thank you ! No power to the solenoid... banging our heads against the bumper begging it to start not working. (still have sense of humor)
Please help I have a 07 Saab 97x 42i 6cyld my ignition switch harness was cut so I have 12 wires that I don't know how to wire up w a push start an toggle switches
Fixed this on my wife's car by changing the valve body after fluid changes and filter stopped helping. No more flashing d or shifting problems. Got a new valve body on etsy for $200 plug and play. Seller name was Djtransparts. Hope this saves someone all of the trouble that i had to go through over the past couple of years to figure out the fix.
It probably could. I had to install a push button start out of necessity because the aftermarket alarm shorted and removed connection from the ignition module. I bypassed all the wiring because it was bad. If you do not have electrical issues, tapping into the starter wire would be better.
Antifreeze will also keep components of the cooling system, and the inside of the block, from rusting as well. It's recommended by the manufacturer for a reason.
Thank you for your comment! I am aware of the benefits of coolant unfortunately. This vehicle has a cracked head that eats through coolant realitively quickly. It does not get into the oil, just comes out the exhaust. It is not worth the repair to fix the head. I bought it this way for cheap. It keeps working so I keep driving it. I would not trust it on a long trip. It is my grocery, hardware run vehicle. To save money I did not want to keep buying coolant. My mentality is to keep the vehicle going with minimal effort or cost. That being said, I had planned on draining the cooling system before we had freezing weather but the freeze crept up on me. Lesson learned.
When me and buddy did my plenum we both had no idea that tube was back there it runs to the back of the intake we broke that loose and hit the oil pressure sensor right next to it and had to do that too but she lives
That sounds like a frustrating experience. The lessons learned the hardest are the ones you don't forget! Lol I bet you will never forget that. Glad to hear you got her working. They definitely crammed this engine in the jeep. There is not much room to reach around.
@@shutupanddoityourself there’s plenty I won’t forget these things live on in my head forever. Grew up in one because of my dad and fell in love with it and got it for my birthday. Subframe went out. Lessons. Also him not taking care of it either. Got a 94 Laredo that I’ve done a million things too with plenty of lessons. Now I have the sister to yours with the puffy seats mint and I’ve got all my lessons to take care of her
This is a good video why did you cut the sleeve on the back side of the hub though does that have to be removed or something I don't understand and now I'm stuck there with new bearing in the knuckle and I wanted to see how it looked after assembly
I think you are talking about the race. You should replace the race if you replace the bearing as both parts wear out and are consumables. I will try and see if I can find a picture for you.
@@shutupanddoityourselfoh dude I found out the hard way I thought that wasn't Necessary and it was lmao didn't realize the new bearing already had the race installed😅🤷 I drove the hub into the new bearing and was like why won't it go in all the way. The. I snapped back to this video and said oh crap that's why he cut that brace off the hub shaft😅so tapping the hub back out I actually ruined the bearing so I had ti warranty another got it done but what a pain the ass. Man so I forgot to come back and say those rubber tie rod ends you had to cut with a sawzaw I ran into the same issue so what the ended up being is when you have it on the stand it makes the tie rod end hang further down and kind of binds on the threads so to speak my bolt was also free spinning so I took a jack and jacked the tie rod end up and that allowed the bolt the thread off. Same going on it just sat there free spinning forever unit I jacked the tie rod end up so the bolt didn't have to pull the threads though. I got it done without a press thank God just bearing race set from harbor freight,a dead blow,mini sledge and some 2x4. Also good tip on cutting the brace off the hub shaft for some reason it wasn't working on the driver side so I basically cut all the way through it so when I hit it with a flat it came right off didn't mark the shaft just taking my time with a low setting on the dremel.
@@shutupanddoityourself hell you want to know what even worse? So I was finishing the other side after I learned this hard lesson get the entire knuckle bearing and hub assembled only to realize I had forgotten the freaking snap ring. I was soooo pissed because I already knew I was about to ruin another brand new bearing like I did the day before. Thank God oReilly's was cool and just gave me the 2nd warranty without question. Now it drives good my grandma's car but still wanted it to be safe so I had to redo it on both sides via not listening to you on the brace on the first side,then on the final side forgetting the snap ring😅🤷☠️oh well live and learn
@@shutupanddoityourself and this video also applies step by step for the 2021 mirage that's the year model I just did so I assume there all the same 2015-2022
Jeez your old snap ring looked fine compared to mine! (also a 2015) Mine was so rusted one ear snapped off, had to get the cutting torch out just to remove it.....nothing like living in the Rust Belt of Ontario! Lots of good info here, thanks. One thing that I noticed is that the torque setting you used for the axle nut is a little light. The service manual says 199 ft.lbs for the axle nut.
Great channel!!! New subscriber here. I inherited a 2015 Mirage with CVT. Has 185k miles. Transmission fluid has never been changed. I've been told by some "experts" not to change it due to the advanced mileage because it might cause more slippage, while others say I should change it. I feel a little bit of slip while accelerating, but only occasionally. What are your thoughts? Will I do more harm than good if I change it?
Please change your fluid, the magnets will build up and then metal shavings will recirculate thru your trans breaking it. There's also a pan filter that catches debris, that can get full and block off the flow of trans fluid, also destroying your trans. I'm surprised your trans lasted this long tbh.
another note, yes that thing about not changing it because it will slip is partially true for the cvt, only if you don't change the fluid, if you did change the fluid on time it would not be a problem but sometimes people that change their fluid really late will experience slipping, so really your taking your chances by changing it or driving it either way.
how many miles were on your Mitsubishi Mirage before the wheel bearing went bad. i have 150k miles on my Mitsubishi Mirage and wheel bearing is still good. I am trying to figure out what is wrong with my brakes right now because they are sticky and grinding for a bit after letting off the brake pedal. I have not figured out the problem yet. I think the one pad on the front brakes with the wings that needs to slide back and forth is most definately not sliding its just stuck in there so that could be it. I need to clean out the channels in there so the one break pad needs to be lubed up on its wings so it can slide back and forth. it seems like when i put new brake pads on every time there is no where near (very) enough room in there for the brake pads and rotors. I have almost zero experience at car repair though, so Diy ing the auto zone car repairs is just a guessing game for me and learning experience to say the least.
There is around 120k miles. It sounds like a groove might have been worn where the pad slides back and forth. I would check to makes sure the pads are able to slide back and forth. If there is a groove you may need to fill it by welding it or replacing the knuckle. It is difficult to say without looking at your vehicle.
That's just a 28 mm nut dude... Be smarter than the part that you're trying to remove... I just want to know how the fuck you're supposed to press the bearing out of the hub assembly and get the hub out of the bearing.. The driver side front wheel bearing took a shit on my 2019 Mirage ES after my girlfriend decided to try to dodge a deer and ended up eating a ditch.
My thought process was if you place one filter over the fan it reduces airflow and will cause the fan motor to overheat. I figured it would be better to have a plenum chamber to create negative pressure.
You just earned a new subscriber. I have a 2015 Mirage. No issues with the bearing...YET! I have to replace the CV axle, so I came here to find out what size of nut is holding the axle on (32 mm - thank you!). I ended up watching the whole video, though. I REALLY like the fact that you recorded EVERYTHING, including your mistakes. We all make them, we're just not willing to fess up to it. It's better to learn from somebody else's mistakes because it lessens the chance of making my own. Thanks a bunch!
Thanks for all the videos man! Super helpful and awesome step by step. Helped me immensley with a few jobs of my own in changing wheel bearings and maintaining cv joints/shafts/boots. Thanks again, Pat
I have a 2015 hatchback I'm having a problem. it stops running in the Middle of the highway, engine light comes on and D flashes. has anyone had this problem ?
I only have the flashing D driving from New Mexico to Houston going 80 all the way I stopped put gas in and it stopped, flashing, only problem I have is I might have put a bit more transmission oil or I switched from D to Ds while driving I have about 85k miles
I cut the nut off on one side and bashed it with a hammer on the other. It was not a smooth process. The knuckle made it difficult to hit it with a hammer. I hope that helps.
I honestly do not know. When this vehicle started flashing this code it stopped shifting correctly. I feel prolonged use in this condition may cause further damage. Be sure to only use jcvt fluid.
I had this exact same Mirage except it was a 2014 DE CVT. I miss the hell out of that car because I totaled it. I ended up buying another 2021 ES CVT. My wife has a 2017 ES CVT G4 Mirage. If you go on Mirage Forum there are plenty of owners well past 150k miles and with their original JATCO CVT7. 74lb of torque doesn't stress the CVT out at all. I think OP just had some bad luck.
Ok kids, gather around. So removing and pressing wheel bearings that look like the one you see in the video is best to let a shop replace it for $40 per. Simply remove the knuckles. Yes, both cause they both have the same mileage. And bring along the new parts with you. It is best to use OEM. Trust me check out eBay for actual OEM parts some desperate car dealership is willing to sell parts at cost just to turn their inventory fresh. The shops will use all-date or Michelle to get depth specs. Totally worth $40 each. I have seen that tips are good but bringing them power drinks is even gooder
