This channel is a place where I can demonstrate different products for my job, do how to videos for cooking, woodworking, automotive repair, and whatever else might come to my mind.
I’ve done this with the lower blend door and now my direction of air is off. For instance if I have it set to defrost the air comes from the floor or if I have it on front vents it comes out of top dash I can’t get it calibrated back right. Same car btw 06 300
@@mliphart well after I noticed clicking and found out which one it was I replaced it and it’s the only one I changed but ever since then the air direction is off. I’ve searched everywhere and can’t find a solution
Just what I needed! I am sure glad I did not have to remove the passenger seat and the under-dash parts just to access this valve. Thank you so much for this video! Liked and subscribed!
@@mitch4695The soft pedal can be caused by a couple of different things. It is very possible that you have air in the Brake lines somewhere and the system needs to be "bled." It could also be a bad Master Cylinder. I would start there.
I hear you - but, I have done alternators that are much harder than this one - that's where the comment came from. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments.
Good afternoon. Why did you change this part? I have a high pressure in the return line of the air conditioner. There should be low pressure in that line and I have high pressure there. So I need to change this part too? Thank you.
Possibly. The expansion valve is the part that creates the "high pressure" side - so, it is possible. I changed mine because I wasn't getting cold enough air. I ended up replacing the back expansion valve, too.
I followed the steps and made sure the new cable was perfectly installed. Reinstalled the console and no change. Monitor is still blank, but able to access menu as before. Could it be a cable behind the dashboard?
Ok. I replaced the computer on hers about a year ago. It ran fine for a while and then started acting up again. It stalls occasionally, idles rough, stumbles while going down the road. Occasionally trouble cranking.
Cleaning the throttle body helped - but, in my case it was a deeper issue. It ended up needing a new computer. Bit, always start with the simplest possible solution.
I appreciate this video so much. When I saw where my alternator was I almost panicked at the idea of needing to take it to a mechanic. You are about to save me so much money!
Do you have any idea on how to take the dash out because I am looking for a wire harness because my code reader doesn’t work and other stuff like my key doesn’t turn the ignition off my passenger door open it turned it turns the truck off
I have not had to take the dash out - so I can't answer that question. I do know that many vehicles have bolts coming through the firewall that holds the dash in place.
Is there a way to make sure you get the correct ribbon cable without taking the whole top panel out? I keep seeing to make sure you have the correct part number, but haven’t been able to verify an easy way to know what cable to order as there are two different ones.
Thanks for this video, very helpful. I'm not sure if I have the wrong bulb or not but I have the H-13 bulbs. My issue is the headlights are very dim, almost like they're (DRL)'s daytime running lights. When I hit my high beams then they seem like normal headlights... No one flashes their high beams at me so my question is, what was the headlight bulb # you used? My soul does not have (DRL)'s so I definitely think it's a bulb issue...🤷🏼♂️
Yes, it was a H-13 bulb. I am not sure why your Kia would do that - it is a bit odd. But, if it is not causing problems while driving - you have to decide if it is worth spending the time and/or money to make it right.
@@mliphart agreed, I just got my Kia a little over a month ago. I actually changed the ballasts that hold the bulbs too due to them getting real hot and almost melting from what they looked like. Eventually I want to go with the LED headlights so that may be the next step. Thanks for the info though, I really appreciate it.
The bleeder screw on the front of mine is bone dry I hear a squeal when I cold start I’m guessing water pump being that it’s dry but what could be causing the pump to not get coolant in that area because the hose and rad have fluid in them but nothing in the front of the water pump housing, I’ve been having issues with it getting hot the. Cooling down getting hot then cooling Down originally had a leak and used k seal fixed the leak I think but then the overheating issues started, hasn’t overheated but it gets hotter than it’s supposed to I think I’ve seen it get up to as high as 242 then shoot back down to 195-197
These engines are very finicky. They get air trapped in them and will overheat until it is out. I start with plenty of water and Anti-Freeze, and with the reservoir cap off - start the car and let it idle - with the heater on high. At some point, the car will suck the water down - be prepared to refill it as it goes down - DON'T WAIT UNTIL IT ADDS MORE AIR INTO THE SYSTEM. I let this process go for about 45 minutes. It will bubble out both air and water - but keep it as full as you can. As long as you don't let air back into the system, you will be ok. I just had to do this to my wife's car. It got low enough on coolant that it got air into the system. It is an idiosyncrasy of some vehicles - this being one of them.
Ha! And there it is!! I commented just a few minutes ago on a previous video I just saw, and decided to dive into your channel to see if you had uploaded the penetrating oil. Brings back memories!
Ive seen this demo before, and I’ve done it. Back in about 2011-2012 or so… Those bits are legit. I bought the set up to 1/2”, and it had a decent three drawer box. I never burned one up. And most of them from 1/16” or 1/8” (can’t remember how small they went) up to I wanna say around 3/8” had multiples in case you’re an idiot, and did manage to somehow break, or burn one up… Now you mentioned in the beginning of the video that you were going to show off the penetrating oil as well I believe, but we didn’t get to see it lol… I can attest to that as well if it’s the same formulation that I used… It was KM penetrating oil is all I remember, and it smelled like freaking CAKE BATTER. I swear on my life. I’ve still to this day never used better, and I’m in industrial maintenance… Blaster, Kroil, Knocker Loose, WD, Amsoil, DuPont; NOTHING came even remotely close to that cake batter. Thanks for posting buddy!
