I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content
That’s awesome! Congrats. So on mine I did the upper link longer to help maintain caster while driving. But it’s still a balance cause you have to keep the driveline happy. Busted knuckle has a great three link calculator you can download for free that will help with running all the numbers and seeing how they will effect caster and pinion angle during travel.
you using fluxcore or gas? been scared to start my yj build myself, tired of staring at it on jackstands. my 1 local shop that’s able to do it, still hasn’t gotten back to me…
Flux core. I did this project using it just to show it could be.It was a budget build kinda thing. Personally tho I like to use gas when possible but as long as the machine you use is big enough amps wise it doesn’t matter
Hey buddy how goes it =) I have been studying your build like crazy as I'm building my yj. On this part or the video I'm wondering at ride height what is the distance that u have between the coil and the inside sidewall at the top of the tire. Thanks and all the best.
Hey hope the build is going great. The space between the tire and coil is all gonna depend on the backspace your wheels have I’m running 4.5” backspace and I’m around 4-5 “ of space between the coil over and the tire
Awesome budy. I really appreciate u getting back with me. I will be sure to check my back spacing. I know I'm going to be running some steel wheels with 39s. All the best and again thanks for reaching out
why not use the press to press the ring into the locker assembly?.. I am curious.. some people say pressing the ring into the locker is the right way.. other people say whacking the ring into the locker assembly with a dead blow hammer is the right way.. other people heats the ring to 200F and freezed the locker assembly.. other people use the bolts to drive the ring into the locker body (although some people say this is not a good idea as it could deform the locker assembly flange where the ring rests... Thanks!
Ok personally I feel like it all depends on the situation and how tight the ring gear is to the carrier. In this case is wasn’t overly tight so a few hits with a dead blow was all it needed. I don’t ever like pressing them on is the right way cause I had a ring gear shatter once and just never have done it since. Now preheating the ring gear is the right way for sure when it is overly tight. Hope that all makes sense lol
@@KBWheelin that’s what I’m gonna have to do also. Was just slightly worried how integral it would be with the shock towers putting stress right in that area. But in order to not have to notch it my belly height would be like 26”. Like you said in one of your videos it’s a lot of give and take. How’s the anti squat on your setup?
@ccasson19 I’ve done it a few different ways on different builds. I’ve removed it and put dom across farther back down the frame rails. I had one build I removed it completely but that one haded a rear bumper that was welded to the rails. I don’t remember what this build calculated out to on the anti squat I think it was 90 percent but don’t remember lol plus I raised the ride height and in with the clovers which effects it too but it performs great.
This is the best video I've ever seen about suspension triangulation. I totally get it now! Thanks for posting it! I'm scratch designing and building my next RC chassis and was hoping not to need a panhard bar.
Hey all, great video man. Thanks, I have a question. The air controller box that comes with the locker.. will it be able to be hooked up to a different onboard air supply and work correctly? I want to be able to use an onboard for filling tires as well
What about positioning of the truss. In regards to pinion angle. How do you know the truss is in the right position? Im asking because i meed to install a truss on my dana 35 for my tj.
@dabrownconservative7843 I guess it really depends on the truss I am using. If it’s cut for that specific axle I even the spacing on the front and rear. If it’s a universal truss I mock everything up with my pinion angle set then level the truss and burn it it. Hopefully that makes sense
Thank you so much for explaining the notch reverse thread, had no idea. What amp setting do you use for these heim links? What setting would you use for heim tie rods?
This is just how to remove a lunchbox locker from a carrier. As far as removing the c clips Remove center pin. Each side of locker consists of 2 ratcheting sleeves. Slide them apart and push wheel/axle shaft inwards. C-clip will come out between the two.
I have a dana 50 and replaced carrier and ring and pinion. I have endplay in the pinion after tightening fully, should it be shimmer behind the outer pinion besring race?
@@Gregmcd10 there should be non under the races you run either behind the inner race or behind the pinion bearing not both. You have the crush sleep removed for set up correct? Or are you on final assembly?
Put a 50 in my Comanche using an Artic truss and machined the knuckles for TMR hi steer arms. I’ll have it on the road eventually lol. What size tire are you running on the 50’s you use? Appreciate the video
You should do a longer video on how the suspension set up on lime time is working. I’m using you build videos as kind of a how to on my yj build. Looks good though
Yeah I have been tossing around the idea of doing a kinda walk around video on the build so that’s not a bad idea thanks! Awesome good luck on your build!
Thank you for making this YJ series. Just found your channel doing research for my own YJ crawler project. I was feeling overwhelmed that I was goi g to have to spend a fortune on a kit which would have been impossible for me to do on a disabled vets fixed (and very low) income. I now feel like with some universal parts it’s something obtainable for me. Thank you again
Excellent video!!! I wish I would have seen this prior to installing a gland nut! QUESTION PLEASE! So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.
So two things I would say first 1 have you already been driving around on them? If so leave them cause they wear in and you don’t want to make changes on them after driving you want to complete the break in proses and leave them in my opinion. 2 aftermarket gear sets are known for being noisy in different ways depending on on the brand I have installed Yukon gears and everything was perfect yet they had a noticeable noise on the freeway compared to my motive gears.
Thanks so much for replying! I put about 14 miles on them slow and easy under 45mph as I was trying to complete the first break in/heat cycle so the phosphate coating is about gone. I'm definitely thinking this a gear quality issue given your opinion and other's I've read. I'm going to send these back and try a set of Motive's. I've installed a few Yukon sets in the past and they didn't whine on coast like these do. This isn't the first time I've built a differential, but it is the first time I've done a set of 4.88 Yukon's. I really appreciate the input sir. I've also noticed the factory B/L spec is .010-.015". Obviously we want to go with the gear manufacture's recommendation which for these is .006"-.010". I'm sure the pattern would move towards the heel with that much B/L for this set of gears. Thank You again for your time and advice sir. Happy Wheelin! @@KBWheelin
Dumb question, how much modification did you have to do to the Barnes mounts with the truss? I’m going to be doing pretty much the exact setup that you have , and im torn between the artec diy kit and the Barnes. I like the Barnes because of your video, and the price, but I notice in the pictures it looks like it’s meant to be welded right to the axle tube
I just did a bunch of measuring to get the correct hight then cut it down flat to weld to the rope of the truss.wouldn’t say it was a ton of work…. Took longer to get all the measurements right than to do the work
@@KBWheelin thank you! I don’t think it will be bad, I’ve been watching your videos and honestly it’s the best walk through I’ve found so far. I’m going from a turbo 4 banger to a sbc so that will be fun too
@@KBWheelin sorry to bother again, Im really new to doing this, been building raceboats for years, and doing cars and stuff but never anything this intricate. Do you mind sharing what kinda welder your using? Source voltage/amp rating. Im gomma be using all of your videos along my journey haha
