That was great. You are very patient and have nerves of steel! I’m going to try to fix my unit while trying not to throw it across the room! Thanks for publishing this video. Joe D
Super helpful, Jeff, thanks so much! We have top-down, bottom-up Levolors in our two bathrooms, so they are small, 2' wide and about 3' tall. They're about 10 years old, no complaints. Pulling down one of the uppers last week when I heard a SNAP! and the upper bar went limp. Dismounted it from the window and saw the string for the upper bar was cut, about 8" to the right of center, inside the bar. (Didn't see any sharp edges, maybe the inside edge of the brass grommet eeveloped a sharp burr?) Springs seemed intact, but fully retracted, of course. Thought I'd need to order new string, but your video did a great job explaining the string and spring operation. So I retied the string, unwound the two string bobbins, centered them over the four spring wheels, and seemed to have enough string to fully lower the upper bar. Wound up the string bobbins, wound up the spring wheels, reassembled and it's working! Great tip to use paper clips to secure the springs! I speculate that the spring wheels only need a turn or two of tension when the bar is all the way up (maybe no need to wind "half-way"?). As the bar is lowered, string is pulled out, and the springs are wound up tighter, turn for turn. For some other commentators - if the blinds stop short, you may need more string, but make sure you have enough spring travel and won't yank the spring end off the wheel before your blind is fully lowered.. Hope that helps! Thanks again, Jeff!
Wow! Thank you so much! My mom lowered them too far on two different windows. The spring came off the side it wants to spool to. With your disassembly, it got them to work perfectly again. Saved me a lot of $$.
Hi Jeff I know this post is a bit dated (2021) but the most recent I've found. I have three large (9') Levolor shades and several others. The older 9' ones have a drop of about 54" and have started to not come down all the way. These have two "engines" as your 6' shade did. I tried the steps to adjust the cord length on both engines but it didn't help. Then I tried rewinding the springs. That didn't help. Then I used the suggestion of adding a small length of string to the bottom . That allowed the shade to come down a bit more but then the springs became disconnected. In trying to rewind the springs, one of the connection tabs broke off. Fortunately I had another shade that I could steal that part from . So after working on this all day, I am back to where I started. Any other suggestions. Could it be that the springs are too short??
Don, I am not sure, but I suspect the amount of spring on one wheel or the other isn't right. I wasn't able to find specs on how much should be on each wheel when the shade is in the retracted position. I had to try several different amounts before I got it to work.
Thanks Jeff for the internal view of the Levolor shades. I have looked for hours (days) and have not found a new mechanism or springs. I have contacted some manufacturers in Taiwan for the springs, but they are prototype prices and not assured to match my shade. cheap by the hundred though. The sad part is only the most expensive shade brands provide any parts, and no regular brand (that I can find) have the balancing mechanism - a constant torque spring. If anyone knows where to get the Levolor style in this video please post so we can find some parts. This is the most important functional part of the shade and the most likely to fail. Apparently Hunter-Douglas now owns the patent for the spring assembly shown. Important: I learned they must be moved sloooooowwwwwly least the spring go funky and possibly break.
Just finished repairing a 5' wide by 4' tall before watching your vid...I know - not too smart. But it went fairly well. One spring had come completely off it's wheel and string was all messed up. Needed two extra hands (my wife) to keep the spring from going "boing", but only took maybe 10 minutes and then reinstall. Works fine now, but still don't know why or what caused it to come unwound. Go for it folks...you CAN do it!
Thanks to your video I had the knowledge and confidence to fix a blind that never fully extended. In my case, I had to add more cord. I did this by removing the bottom cover, cut the current cord and adding about 10” of new cord. Now I can take a nap with the room totally dark ! Thanks again!
Why don’t you use the rope spools snap on the side then just pool the rope, when you ran out of rope then take spools off rewind spool so you have more rope then reattach on gear wheel then pull again .I found that easier the use hand to rewind , it’s safer and won’t break the hook inside gear wheel trigger mechanism
Hi Jeff, Thank you for this video which was timely. I was restring the top down bottom up cordless version of this blind and have a tensioner for the top down bar and another for the bottom up bar. My repair was for the re-string of the top down unit which was rarely used, and the bottom up operation action string was wearing away a spot on the top down string, that had little activity. I was carelessly lifting at the bottom up tensioner to re align the replacement strings for the other tensioner into the guides and bzzz went a spring. I carefully watched you rewind a spring and was expecting you to say that the spring was attached to each of the two wheels. I noted that I could see one end was securely attached to the empty reel and attempted to wind up the reel that has all the spring on it. Since the spring was not tightening to a fully tightness I am wondering if the spring is actually attached to both reels or if one reel is loose and is a make up space for the spring. I am a little nervous to let the spring fly apart, if there is nothing wrong with it. I could leave that one unit out (in-operable) but the blind is 5ft wide by 64" down with backout fabric which may be more than the remaining two units can handle. I would appreciate any word that can help, as there is not a lot of information around, and nobody wants to do repair, just to replace with new with three other matching units.
Thanks for making this video. Was interesting to look in it without me taking it apart. I don't trust myself and looks kind of complicated. I have a bunch of this around the house and thought if it was possible to add a motor in it and automate it. Do you think that's possible?