This channel is just a regular guy doing regular DIY repairs around the home. "Cronk" is a nickname given to me by my kids - they assure me it's a term of endearment!
Thanks for watching! Yes, this birdbath is pretty unique, and when the pan cracked, we were very sad, so we kept on trying until it held water again. It's not the prettiest, but it works - and the birds love it too! Good luck in your own DIY projects!
Thank you so much for this video. I followed it exactly as demonstrated and fixed my microwave with parts from Amazon for under $10! Microwave works great again.
Great video. Ive seen these blocks in the stores. Ill bet a person could use a old hot oil turkey cooker too. Pot and all. Also for pot holes wonder if could add pea gravel and fill. As long as good base under. Great video and ideas.
Hi, thanks for watching! You could probably use an old hot oil turkey cooker, for sure. Just realize that the tar will get on it and it might not be suitable for cooking turkey afterwards! The pea gravel idea for larger holes sounds practical as well. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Not being a karen, but im certa ( propane) certified for 31 years, and if you get a leak in that propane tank fitting you gonna burn down the whole thing, tractor included. Always have a fire extinguisher handy, within 50 ft and keep your tank 20 ft from your fire!! Never wear cuffed gloves, get the ones that wrap tightly around your wrist.Ive seen what asphalt burns do to a man, and it dies not stop until it hits bone. Id hate to see someone else get burned badly. Just looking at the saftey side.. great idea though. I use a waterproofing kettle, and rubberized asphalt on about 10 thousand square ft of a commercial roofing yard to maintenance the driving surface. I have to rebuild tar kettle pumps and they are dissasembled hot , around 475°f . HOT Asphalt is no toy... Great diy methid , just tank is way to close in that walled trailer , mount it on the outside away from the flame, please..
What was your symptoms? Mine works for a few days after replacing fuse and then blows. I just replaced 2nd fuse. I didnt have to do the push cancel before opening door. It worked as it should for a week and then fuse blows.
Thanks for watching. In our case (yours may not be the same), we found that pulling the door open while it's running would not only stop it from running, but also blow the fuse, which is why I investigated the door switches. You may have an intermittent problem with one or more of the door switches, which are all interlocked with the unit. Good luck!
Thanks for watching! Most home stores (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) will carry brands like Sakrete, etc., but the mix is just called "mortar mix". You could get "sand mix" (which is a blend of Portland cement and sand), but mortar mix is what's used when you're mortaring block or bricks together. Good luck!
Very nice and effective! The Home Depot stuff looks good but does not last! You have duplicated what the commercial vendors do. And the commercial grade contractors do cost!
I shorted out my microwave by using a pliers to try to remove the stove top light bulb. Everything is out. Could the fuse exchange solve my problem or do I need a new microwave? I opened it up and took out the fuses and they are both bad.
Hi thanks for watching. It seems odd to me that the microwave would short out that way. However, I'd check to be sure your circuit breaker is off at the panel and try it with a new bulb and fuses first, turn on the breaker and see if the microwave is still out. Good luck!
Hi, thanks for watching. Do you mean the rubber seal on the bottom of the sink where the tailpiece connects to the underside of the sink, or another rubber seal? Usually, these aren't glued, so using a putty knife or something similar can scrape it off so the new one can be installed. Good luck!
For those watching - The video creator put the wrong switch in that spot. You need the NC (Normally closed) switch there, he installed a NO (Normally open) switch in that position, which is dangerous. the two end switches are the NO (Normally open). I'm not sure how is microwave is working. Look at the shape of the switch between his old one and the one in the box, they are completely different.
Thanks for watching. Thanks for the comment, but all switches were replaced with identically-numbered switches and the unit has been functioning perfectly. Good luck with all your DIY repairs!
@@fixitwithcronk1074you put the wrong switch in. You put a normally open switch in when it should’ve been a normally closed. This was very very obvious.
I agree. I've viewed many sites and viewed switches that are NO and NC. The one switch he handled had a prong closer to the top. The other switch he handled had a prong closer to the bottom. Different switches. One NO; One NC. It was obvious!
Thanks for watching! Perhaps the switches are different for this model of microwave? As I said, this has been functioning properly since the repair. Good luck with all your DIY repairs!
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to fix our microwave issue without the need of the appliance repair man. Probably saved 200 bucks. It wa a great ego boost as well.
Thanks for watching! Congrats on making the repair. It certainly is an ego boost to be able to fix something like this! Good luck with all your DIY repairs!
@@fixitwithcronk1074 I am having a new problem now. Hope you can help me. After closing the door and setting the time, the microwave wont start after i press the START button. I am hearing clicking noise coming from behind the controls panel and the countdown timer starts but the microwave does not start. I have to try at least 5 to 6 times for it to work. Not sure whats going on. I replaced all the 3 door switches. MODEL JVM3160RF5SS
better to refer to them as normally open or normally closed. If you order after-market parts they will probably be the same colors. You have to look at the tab position to see their normal n/o n/c settings
Really appreciate the video. I got a repair kit and it was a huge adventure of a not so great kind, the set screw would not budge, drill time, and then one of the seats stripped at the hex. I had to drill numerous times until the seat finally broke through, fortunately the threads were spared. Unfortunately, after cleaning things up and reassembling, it still leaks. So, at some point in the future...But thank you again. Edit: The fixture no longer leaks as more Teflon tape was added to the seats. Now I just need to apply the caulk to the face plate and hope all will be well.
Thanks for watching. Yes, even with the new repair kit, ours still leaks when it's turned on, but not quite as much. I don't know what I expect for a 60-year old faucet, but I learned a lot when I took it apart and played with it. Sometimes you need some of the teflon paste in addition to the teflon tape - it gets into more nooks and crannies and helps keep those leaks minimized. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
That’s a lot of work. Buy a hot tar machine. Heats up faster and you won’t need anything else to help you spread it. I do commercial work. Clark’s gas stations to be exact and that’s what I use. You make it work with what you got and that’s awesome! You should still buy a hot tar machine and you’d be good at using it. After you tar the cracks throw play sand on the crack and it will make it smooth and look way better when it drys and if someone wants to drive on it they could immediately
Thanks for watching. Good tips! I was trying to do it "on the cheap" with tools and equipment I had already. I like the idea of the play sand though; as I do this at least once a year, it's a good tip. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Thanks for watching. Yes, that's the trouble with us DIYers - sometimes in taking things apart, things get broken, but hopefully you were able to get the replacements you needed. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Thanks for watching! You mean the switches were black from being burned out, or the plastic was black? The switch body could be any color plastic depending on the manufacturer. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Hello , thanks for your video. I have a Ewave Kot-170SW and sometimes when I close the door slowly blows the fuse . I took the door switches out like you showed us and one of the 4 of switches is not clicking. It seems to be a 0.3A 24v DC 27T105 5E4 I can not find it in amazon. Any idea?.
Hi, thanks for watching. Sorry for the late reply, but you might have some luck searching outside of Amazon or checking with a local appliance repair shop; sometimes they will sell the parts without the service. Good luck with your DIY Repairs!
Take this from a guy who just splashed hot tar on his hand from doing this, leave it to the professionals. The pain from a hot tar burn is excruciating, and the healing process is long and just as painful.
Ouch! We have always worn leather gloves when doing this, and so far have managed to avoid burns - although the gloves aren't good for much else afterward! I hope your burn heals quickly! Thanks for watching!
Thank you! This is one of the best how-to videos I have ever seen. We were able to follow these directions and replace a fuse, instead of replacing a microwave.
Hi! Thanks for watching, and for the very kind comment. I'm very glad you were able to troubleshoot your problem by watching this video. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Hi! Thanks for watching. It's an old canning kettle. I would not recommend a galvanized steel bucket because zinc fumes can come off and are toxic! If you can get a big old cook pot you don't mind using just for tar (such as at a yard sale or thrift store), that is probably best. Good luck, and happy sealing!
@@fixitwithcronk1074 do you happen to know how large this cook pot is that you used (how many quarts)? Great idea and great video! Thanks for sharing the tips.
Thanks for the comment! Sometimes the plastic melts, sometimes not. I think it's just because of the way I heat it over an old gas grill side burner. It works, though! Thanks for watching!
Yes, the driveway is over 600 feet long and I don't have the means to seal the entire surface with hot asphalt spray and he did. He said sealing the cracks myself saved me a TON of money though! Thanks for watching!
Hmmm... I don't recall replacing it with an incorrect switch. I matched up the numbers on the switch exactly when I ordered the replacement. It's amazing how gunked up they get, though! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! It's kind of cathartic to do this, knowing that my efforts are saving me a TON of money and extending the lifespan of my driveway, too!
Thanks for watching. I've used those too, and they work pretty well. This is a long driveway and unfortunately has a lot of cracks, so this is what I came up with. Happy DIY-ing!
I question the crimp wire connectors for AC voltage. Not sure I can link to it, but i found a pretty huge writeup on quora titled "Is it safe to use crimp-on spade electric connectors (inside junction boxes) with 120V AC wiring?". I won't say "you're wrong, that'll catch fire", but I'll let you come to your own conclusions (well, continue to you - you were doingj that before I came along!). It's amusing they're so much easier than bare wire to connect to the switch terminals but they weren't made for that. In related news, leviton just came out with a line of products kinda ripping off the Wago lever idea - they're building them right into outlets and switches now (easier even than your crimp on idea ).
Thanks for watching. Ah, that's always a concern, especially with a 500W (i.e., HOT HOT HOT) unit. But it's meant for short-term use, and is unplugged when done, so I figured the benefits outweighed the risks. Happy DIY-ing!
Thanks for watching. Hmmm. I didn't know the difference! The box the block comes in is marked "Asphalt", so that's what I used in my description. Happy DIY-ing!
Thanks for watching! I agree - if they're really deep, you might want to use sand first then the asphalt. It doesn't truly harden and will remain flexible, but it does shrink and the cracks can reappear, so from time to time you have to go over them with a torch. Good luck!
