for donations My channel is a fun mix of how-to videos, DIYs, tutorials, product reviews, travel, vlogs, adventures, my VW bus, and more. With most of the videos focused on helping people learn how to improve their skills to restore a VW bus, if you like the videos and would like to support this project, your donation will be very important to continue with this beautiful task of rebuilding a VW. bus
@@franciscotavarez9529 hola gracias por ver mis videos bueno hay dos posibles casos si la luz del tablero de tu Jeep se queda encendida la luz del airbag está indicando que el clockspring está malo o en su defecto algo en el circuito del airbag está malo ! Pero si la luz se apaga la computadora está detectando que el clockspring está bien ! En lo personal si las bolsas explotaron yo cambiaría las bolsas y el clockspring
@@CarlosCarrasco-r5e hola Carlos en el vídeo indico dónde están los dos tapones el de vaciado y el de llenado espero puedas verlos saludos gracias por ver los vídeos!
si la respuesta es si llevan empaques de culatas y si hay espesores por marcas y calidad en mexico yo usaba un poco de silicon para ayudar a sellar aunque no era necesario usar silicon
que tal oye para hacer la parte donde coere la puerta de en medio y como hiciste esta parte como la doblaste y la otra pieza tieneu varios dobleses o si tienea video del jale
After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way. This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence. The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Use a good worklight for this job. 1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover. 2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work. 3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon. 4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side. 5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket). 6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later). 7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny). 8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me). 9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath). 10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above). 11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough. 12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Por allí de paso hubieras dado el torque de bancada y de biela. Digo para hacer algo bien. O vas a hacer otros dos videos. Saludos. Solo eso te faltó para que tú video fuera perfecto.
😭 duele ❤ de ver cómo están ahí solitas!!! Después de un gran servicio...un mal pago!!! Justo rescate una panel y la estoy volviendo a la vida!!! De regreso a la carretera!!! SALUDOS RAZA!!!
Un buen trabajo, exelente video , sin hablar mucho , mencionando solo lo necesario, como siempre exelente, saludos y gente profesional en ese taller 👍👍👍
Acabo de ver este video y me dejó muy triste lo sucedido con el amigo que se fue y su colección de combis ...en especial las vanagon el cual yo restauró.....me gustaría saber dónde fueron a parar algunas partes o quien más tiene estos vehículos......un abrazo desde el Perú.......
Que triste que sólo las vean como chatarra y nos les den una nueva oportunidad, mi familias las ama no tenemos una pero desearíamos tenerla, para el sr fue su tesoro!
Por favor profe, a una nevera que le sibio aceite al sistema capilar,condensador nynevaporisador ,y lojico la pusieron a andar y trabajo un dia vien despues nada entonces sacamos y le la bamos la unidad con tiner la tuberia condensador y sopletiamos con un compresor y tiner boto aceite le dejamos soplando un rato y despues le dimos otra. Limpieza,armamos y arranco muy bien conjelo y solo una parte de el friser o dos vueltas y no mas con r 600a y en los manometros se subio la precion a 24 se desconecta se enfria y vuelve a arrancar cotrectamente y vuelve la precion a suvirse y para de conjelar , estara tapado el fricer gracias
Buenas usted en un video puso un cementerio de vw necesito una puerta corediza de una t2 del 1971 del lado del pasajero sabe de alguien q me pueda ayudar a conseguirla y me envie la puerta a puerto rico
