Thanks for sharing this! Need to start my brother's bike who died in July. Will be easier instead of removing the seat. I've never owned a bike and this is very helpful
The stock set-up is actually a dry clutch. Harley designed it to drip engine oil onto the primary chain from a line that went from the oil pump to a fitting in the back of the Primary. Then there was a hose that sucked up the oil at the very back of the primary and routed it back to the oil tank. So really Harley is just concerned with oiling the chain on Shovelheads. I have seen some bikes come into the shop with a little bit of oil in the primary, similar to lube the chain. Similar to newer bikes.
Depending on year and model, sounds like you could have a fuel problem. If it’s fuel injected it sounds like you don’t have enough fuel pressure. Really common if the bike has been sitting for any length of time. Call the shop for more questions. We’re here to help. 909-579-6438
Mine won't start, jump box or off the truck, it will click and or stutter like it wants to start and if it does start it runs very very ruff and then dies again. Any advice helps
I’ll double check the torque, but honestly I’m so used to doing it by feel. I draw it down with my 1/2 inch air gun and then I zip it one more time to seat it. Use a little red loctite as well. I will reply again once I find the correct torque spec.
We don’t have a video on that. The best I can say for now is tighten the compensator big nut. Tighten the clutch hub nut. Then bring up the primary chain tensioner pad up enough and then tighten it down you want 3/8 to half inch of play on the top chain
Thank u so much cf motorcycle parts . My 83 fxr with shovelhead started slipping today . By the time I got near home it was slipping totally and I had no more pull . Had to get my trailer
3 stud clutch hub was use 1936 to 1984. 5 stud was/is aftermarket and not Necessary and does not make the clutch better for everyday riding. They were originally designed for drag racing application back in the day. These clutch's were designed on purpose to not release all at once.
Quick question about clutch shells for shovels. I know there is a difference between a clutch shell for a '65 pan - '69 shovel versus a clutch shell for a '70 and up. The starter ring gear is located different . I believe the '70 has the ring gear stepped inward on the shell about 5/16" and the '65 - '69 is close to flush with the edge of the shell (towards the primary chain sprocket)...is this correct? Thanks. Show less
Thanks for the video. I just am repairing a '68FLH that had the wrong year clutch shell (1970 + up) in and caused some issues with the starter. I installed a correct '65 '69 clutch shell and re-used the clutch plates (all were in good shape). Also I sanded the hub studs to remove wear spots. The clutch is not fully dis-engaging now. What do you think is the most likely issue? Perhaps I should drill the clutch friction plates holes out by 1/64"? Release plate looks to be moving outwards about 1/4" - 5/16"...maybe I need to adjust the clutch springs with the clutch dis-engaged to unequal amounts rather than setting it up to 1-1/32" with the clutch engaged?? Thanks.
Depending on if it's a 3 stud clutch hub or 5 stud, you want to make sure the friction plates are not hanging up on the studs. When you do your adjustment, you should be able to pull in the clutch and spin the hub by hand to make sure everything is free. Sure, you can drill out the holes in the plate. Also double check the basket to see if the steel plates are hanging up. I also use a bearing called the big fix so the basket doesn't move so much when I pull in the clutch. Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any more questions. C&F Motorcycle Parts
@@cfmotorcycleparts654 Hello, thank you for your reply. I'm running a 5 stud hub. I just tried something I seen in another one of your responses to another question where you mentioned to turn the push rod screw all the way in then back off a 1/4 turn. That did not do it so I will check the plates to see if any are binding or not moving freely, but I am curious about this bearing you mentioned...the big fix. Can you tell me more about it? Is it the same as the Tamer that holds the hub bearing in place? Thanks.
Question about setting up the clutch. The service manual clearly talked about setting the clutch arm 13/16 from the top of the transmission tower first, however I have yet to see any videos of people setting it up as the manual states. What's your process? Do you adjust and measure the clutch arm?
I actually don’t use that measurement. I turn the adjustment screw in until the lever is all the way out, then back off a quarter turn. Please call us and we can be specific. C&F Motorcycle Parts.
