Hey John I’m looking to add a Shuziyu 14” brush cutter blade to my DR push trimmer. I have two beaver blade kits for parts. I’m looking for some help making a connector for the Shuziyu. Any interest?
This is all good info (and reverse thread option will work too) for the Shop Fox m1099 which is apparently a clone of the G0602 with slightly larger swing and longer center to center.
VERY useful video, thanks for posting it. I would like to mention one thing though, and that is your setup for reverse threading. You don't need to go buy a second 127 tooth gear because any size gear (that will fit) will work. It is what is called an idler gear, and its size or number of teeth will not affect the ratio and torque values between gear 1 and gear 3. I know this might sound wrong, but trust me I know gears...I am a clockmaker. Another advantage of using a gear there smaller than 127 teeth is you can find one that will let you close the door.
@@HarderThanCalculus I’m already aware of that. Smaller cogs can’t be used because the center isn’t pushed out far enough - the mounting device for that gear wouldn’t be able to be located in an empty space.
VERY clear and informative! Thanks John, I learned a lot of valuable information. Good thing YT has a <Save> function, cause I WILL need to re-visit some details. 😉
Or just place it front side up on a desk and drill in that way so you don’t need to have to worry about accidentally slipping and drilling a big gash around the hole
A rivet on a table top will still spin - there’s not enough friction. Plus, I’m careful and I don’t want to drill into a table. My way, one of the two drill bits will win.
@@johnthebikeguy I’m just confused on what you are trying to drill out exactly 😂 are you trying to drill out that little “lip” area I’ll call it? I just assumed you were trying to drill a bigger hole so that’s why I suggested to just drill it on a flat surface lol
Good video! Nice job with the controls. I used to do commercial appliance repair as an add on to refrigeration, AC and heating, and I enjoyed learning things watching your video, including about welding, I thought also that pulling that square root of 7 out of your head on the spot was pretty cool. Thank you very much posting the video. On angle grinders we've had our share of closer than close calls so, ... everybody, be careful, keep the grinder guard on, except when you are making a video, and don't let what you are cutting pinch the blade, as explained in the video, because high speed angle grinders are extremely dangerous.
Great video. Sucks being a mechanic to buy all these tools cuz you never know what your customers have. Same goes for derailleur hangers and hydraulic bleed port adaptors. It’s such a headache to deal with all these standards (or lack of).
Yeah. I’ve got a collection of tools. I no longer work in the industry, but I’ve collected most of the things I use. Bottom brackets, for the most part are two main styles - internal splines or external. Thankfully most companies conformed to those two sizes. Press fit/bb30 only require a bearing press and something to knock them out. I have a few syringes for brakes, most companies use an m5 x .8 thread. I just use two syringes, push fluid from the caliper into an empty syringe on top. For most people, a set of Allen wrenches are adequate.
Thanks for the vid. I have this model and only use it when i need to make a part which isnt too often, and i am VERY green when it comes to machining. Haven't had to make threads but knowing about it, kinda makes me want to turn some bolts.
Nice build. As mentioned in another comment I used a double oven and just joined the doors but made them a side open instead of a bottom open. 1 thing I did different though is I used a PID controller with both elements running at the same time to give a better more consistent heat. The oven controls give a broader range of heat. If you set it at 400, the controller cuts off and on at wider ranges so keeping a constant 400 is nearly impossible. Just an option.
Along with the Sine, Cosine, and Tangent formula's my favorite is the Relationships of a 30-60-90 triangle which is 1-2-Square root of 3 " 1.732 " Also a 45-45-90 triangle which is 1-1-Square root of 2 "1.414" Using the 30-60-90 rule to figure the thread depth , Pitch /2 x 1.732 will give you the approximate depth per side.
I hear you on the die, but here's a tip on how you can thread full depth up to the shoulder with a die... after your first run to the shoulder, reverse the die and cut with the back end, this will give you a full depth thread all the way to the shoulder (takes just a few extra seconds). Ciao, Marco.
The comments below are correct. However, for the purposes of home shop machining, a symmetrical form is sufficient. He is also correct that the flats on a basic form is 1/8P wide. This results in a formula of .650P (or .649519P) commonly referred to as "Single Height" or "Standard Height". This is the formula upon which all the other elements are calculated, if and when it's necessary! However, again, for our purposes, .650P should be used. If you use .866P (Sharp Height) for your infeed depth, the thread will be completely sharp, and the Pitch Diameter will be undersize. Of course, this also depends on how the tool is ground! Either way, .650P depth is safer when you are trial fitting in a home shop!
For the novice who has seen a thread, but not really SEEN what it entails, they always assume that a thread is pointy sharp on the top of the crest and in valley of the root. So they overcut the depth. As a general rule, the top crest of the thread is FLAT and that flat zone is as wide as 1/8 of the pitch. You don't notice this if you're not looking for it. The valley of the root could be as wide as 1/4 of the pitch, but most guys aren't going to flatten the end of their thread tool because.....lazy. I agree with lazy for the most part, but if you want as strong a thread as possible, you will pay attention to this detail. So beginning with a pointy sharp thread tool is where the first systematic error begins. So remember because your tool is sharper than it should be, this will exaggerate how deep you need to cut. But when eyeballing cutting progress, keep in mind that the crest of the thread is supposed to be flat on top if the screw is at exactly theoretical diameter. If you cut it under the theoretical diameter, then the flat will appear slightly wider. Look at a piece of commercial roll threaded rod, it's way undersize and it's very flat on top. When machining the internal thread, the flat of the threads is 1/4 of the pitch in width. This looks VERY wide to the novice. So this is why the internal thread might be done before you know it. Most internal threads get tapped, and people don't notice this detail. But the torque required to tap gets very high if the hole provides more than 66% engagement of the pitch height, so that's the reason for more clearance in thread cutting the nut. Cutting your bolt at the exact theoretical major diameter might make you think you're doing a superior job, but not so. Depending on the pitch, it should be a couple of thousandths of an inch undersize to absolutely forbid interference at the crest with the root of the nut crest. Usually have to file off a slight bit of burr anyways. But in the nut, you can't deburr so easily, but it's not an issue because of extra clearance that you drill into it.
You have a thread chasing dial so you CAN open the half nut just as long as you re engage it on the same spot on the same rotation on the dial as you reverse direction.
Great video. Really! Great idea about the last idle gear for left hand threads. However, normally one could use any gear size for the reverse motion. That gear does not contribute to a ratio because it is a single gear. So, for instance, for a complete revolution of the "a" gear so many teeth will have passed (45 in this example). Then, the idle gear will turn so much that the same number of teeth will move along its arc (45 teeth) and the same goes for the middle "c" gear, namely, 45 teeth as well and regardless of the size of the additional idle gear (as long as another gear could fit in the setup). At any rate, this is a great idea and gain the whole video is really good. Thanks.
Yeah, it doesn’t matter in that sense. However, if I’m going to have a backup gear, it might as well be one that I always use. It’s also the biggest gear that I use which is useful since the structures that hold the gear need to be pushed far enough away to not interfere with everything else when not in use.
There are many change gears - in part 1, I show every change gear with its tooth count. Without the knowledge of the transmission between the change gears and lead screw, plus information about the lead screw itself, I doubt any information I could provide would be useful.
Oh THANK YOU! I did my 1st repack of my headset bearings last night, complete success but today I woke up and was like "Yo what did I even do?! What was that lil split ring and what was that nut inside my fork called?!" lol thanks again for helping me understand, I think I got it, I want to install a new fork, just need to save up for one now hahaha!
Thank you for the video. I'm currently rebuilding a late 90' tech bike and have hit a dead stop with the brake setup. It's the type of bike I always wanted as a kid and couldn't afford.
I build guitars and looking into doing drums. A padded foam sanding pad works well on the wet sanding process. Also be careful that water doesn’t get under the lacquer where the holes are located. I’ve seen the finished layers cloud up or bubble. I enjoyed watching this. Thx
I have watched this video many times. I have done everything you said. But the doors stays open all the time I even tried several different photo switches. I have looked for awhile now and have read things about the photo switch being to high of amps
Mine works. I’m guessing that your wiring is faulty or the one of the components is. Amperage doesn’t affect how the switch operates - the battery has a maximum amperage it can generate, yet runs a variety of components of different power requirements. Voltage matters. You can ignore the solar switch and just run it on time. Eventually my solar switch broke, and I just opted for a timed schedule of opening/closing.
@@johnthebikeguy the wiring is good I just took the wires from the photo switch and put a manual light switch in and it works. I will try different photo switches until I find one that does the job. My battery is a car battery I have a 400watt solar system charging everything, your wiring works great it's the photo switch I'm using.
@@PHATSOBIG I inevitably put the battery in the house, put a trickle charger on it. I ran thermostat wire out to the coop from there (because it was the cheapest with multiple wires). For my timer, I used a smart 12v switch that I can program timers from my phone.
