@@Steve4x4 THanks for the response checked all the fuses ( alternator has been tested good) it has to be the connector, did you have the ignition on with the test with the testlight? do you remember if the connector was grey ? Thanks for your help
@@maxximum18 I had to re watch the video to reminde me what it ..on this car the connector was not all the way seated. All I had to do was push it together.
@@SalomeRivera-y6eAs Per Pro-Demand service software, the evap vent solenoid is on the hose assembly that is behind a splash shield in the left rear tire well. The hose assembly is attached to the fuel filler hose assembly. From the drawings I see, it looks like the vent valve is not serviceable separately from the hoses. I could be wrong, since these are just drawings and not actual photographs.
@@Steve4x4 My friend's front ac is still working so his rear line or orifice tube is probably blocked. His actuator seems to be working judging by what he told me.
I think the take aways here "I hit myself with the pry bar" and "I don't want to cut the belt", the old belt will make a great wall hanger in the garage.
Thanks for convincing me to take it to the dealership. I replaced the plugs on my 5.0 V8 Mustang back in the day, and my knuckles still haven't healed from those back two.
I just bought this same car and got the passenger side plugs and wires done (pretty easy) and saw the driver side and gave up thinking I had to take half the engine apart. Then I found your video and kicked myself when you pulled the washer bottle out 😂😂 now tonight I will be able to do the tuneup with no problem sir, thank you!!
@@gagejohnson7391 you have to remove the rear wheel, the inner wheel well liner... evac the whole AC system. Disconnect the rear AC lines at the rear unit. Then you have access to the rear thermal expansion valve. When doing do make sure all the O-rings are replaced with correct type and size. It unbolts from the rear evaporator.
@@androidtab7889 I always use Gates kits.. In my 30 years as a professional mechanic I've never had an issue of any belt failure that was cause by a belt. I even have some cars now returning for their 3rd timing belt.
Thanks for the video it only returned me to my sanity and thinking I could not find the tensioner. This is nothing more than another money-saving scheme by Ford with all of the junk Vehicles they put on the road then people wonder why Japanese cars are the most popular vehicles on the road today
This is the number 1 video to watch... the others saying cut the belt off... bot a good idea. Many parts suppliers give you a way larger belt. I ended up cutting the belt and to find out my replacement was the wrong size loosing a day of work due to that mistake... the belt is only 40.8 inch long.
I did this job yesterday at my workplace on a 2016 Remove kick panel, disconnect switches (no need to remove them) at pedal assembly, detach all push clips at pedal assembly, remove metal box and its bracket under column visible at 2:23 (easy to get to, I did this for more room, remove TOP bolt at steering shaft (it will slide down easily by hand. No need to disconnect both ends), make sure you mark it and prevent steering wheel from turning, move shaft out of the way, remove 5 nuts holding pedal assembly. At this point the entire pedal assembly will come out easily and the blower motor will be easily accessible The key to not struggling with this, is to remove that metal box, move the intermediate shaft out of the way, and to have the right tools
Very good video. I’m hoping the issue isn’t the same with power steering line rubbing a hole in the rear lines…. But, I’m also now expecting that’s what I’ll find. Grateful for this video.
I always change water pump when they are either driven by the T-belt, or are under the T-belt. If the pump fails after the T-belt was replace, you're forced to do the job again. This video focus was about the timing belt only.. but that water pump was changed.
I have this car and it’s terrible I’ve changed so much on it and it’s the most difficult car I’ve ever worked on now I have a short that turned my car completely off. I figured I have a short because I tried charging the battery and the jumper cables started to smoke and melt
They have used ones on ebay I bought a cheap replacement The rubber intake hose didn’t fit Once I finally got it on the special clamp wouldn’t fit So I put the old one back on Til I find a good used one
Sadly my car was fine yesterday and just walked out to this problem this morning. Now it looks like I will have to take it to my mechanics house and leave it for the week. So he can get to it when he can. 😢🙏🏻
Great job. Forgive me if I ask this question but would it be possible to mix some 5 minute epoxy and apply it to the indent of the tubing where the hole is and wait for it to set up a little and then wrap it with hockey tape or something to hold the epoxy in place as it sets? Or even bondo? Just a thought.
It's possible yes.. but for how long? Freon will leak though aged AC hoses. Also. What about the heat/cold cycles? Soo yes it's possible. But for me I wouldn't trust it.
