Thanks so much for putting out this valuable information. I run a not-for-profit commercial rental kitchen facility and it is so important that we keep our rates low to help our clients build capital so they can move on to their own establishments. Part of the way we do this is to buy (or receive donation of) a lot of used equipment which often needs repair. I am no electrician, but I am a certified machinist as well as pastry chef and culinary consultant. If I can find a way to safely fabricate a repair, I will do it, otherwise it gets called into a proper service technician if it involves plumbing or wiring. This particular video has saved me $200 as it has shown me that the stem in the switch can be replaced with one I fabricate to match the existing stems rather than having to replace the entire switch, which is not faulty; the stem is just snapped off. I'm writing this just to make sure that, in the event I am wrong I am giving myself a buffer of time to check back here to see if anyone disagrees before I go ahead with my plan. Just as an FYI, I will be checking the material and rockwell hardness of the stem to ensure I use the correct metal to match the same heat dispersion as the existing stems, in case anyone was going to jump on that first. Other than that, I can't think of any reason why this won't work -and why they just don't sell replacement stems???
@@teevee186 Woulda been great if that were the case. But where I live, no such luck. Can't buy the stem individually and the replacement switch for the model of stove I had was anywhere between $85-$165CDN plus shipping. But I was lucky enough to cannibalize the stem from another switch my appliance technician gave me and make it work. So the video was very helpful.
I just installed one of these for my gas stove which has a EFH (1/2 lb max) connected to the yellow whip. The only regulator on this line is on the cities side of the meter which regulates 1.5-2.5 psi. I figured this is what I would need but after I installed and opened up the gas, there is no flow. Is the inlet pressure too great? Do I need to install a step down up stream? How do I unlock the regulator?
Thank you for a good video :) Few questions, my pump is leaking from the shaft seal. What is the correct size of the seal and how do you remove the old seal and put new one in? Also, at the same time the o ring to the back cover should be changed. Do you know what size is the back cover o ring? One more, the pump motor is seized, it 's full of hardened grease. How does one remove the pump motor? The electric connections?
Very informative. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m in need of this exact same part and have yet to locate one. Any help would be much appreciated 🙏. Thanks
Standard thermocouples are threaded 11/32" 32TPI. Metric ones are typically M8 and M10. A M9x0.8 thread is very close to 11/32" 32TPI. If you see a "M9" thremocouple connection it is likely a standard thread described as a close metric equivalent. Those safety valve electromagnets are very reliable, but I had one fail. It only held with several times higher current than spec, more than even a new thermocouple could supply. It's only 10 turns of thick enameled wire, five on each side of the aluminum form. I carefully examined the wire for a break in the enamel that could short to the form, but didn't find a flaw. It was as if the electromagnet just stopped creating a magnetic field, or the metal disk at the end of the plunger not longer had as strong of a magnetic attraction.
Hello Jack. One change to this video - the bleed hole and center hole of the yellow insert are of specific diameters such that water above the insert exits through the center hole faster than it can enter through the bleed hole out on the perimeter of the insert. When the armature is raised by the coil, water pressure above the diaphragm and insert goes to 0. The rest of your video is informative and accurate. (P.S. I work for Robertshaw..)
Very nice explanation. I am not completely sure what happens when the thermostat breaks. According to the video the oven will then be "set" to its max temperature all the time rather than its lowest? If that's so it will probably be good to make some bread still, but no cakes .
This style valve holds very close to the set temperature but the equipment must be preheated for very sensitive things like custards or pastry. The longer the oven is at temp the closer the actual temp stays to the set temperature. letting the equipment preheat is critical.
I have a set of gas logs with this valve. It's dual fuel. LP gas or natural gas. There's two pilot assemblies. when you turn the knob to LP, the cog gear outside the valve trips a switch to turn off gas to natural gas pilot
καλησπερα. εχω εστιατοριο και δουλευω με μια κοτοπουλιερα παρομοια με το βιντεο σας. διαθετει 10 σειρες και ορισμενες απο αυτες μολις αναψουν κανουν μια εντονη αναφλεξη και σβηνουν. το υγραεριο συνεχιζει να ρεει. ποια πιθανη βλαβη υπαρχει?
Do the pilot switch need to be connected. I noticed it only has a plastic arm running to it with a metal connector to hold it in place. Unfortunately, a piece of the plastic arm is burnt so the metal connector is not really holding on. Do I need the pilot switch to be connected?
Can the capillary tube and bulb be replaced by itself with a new bellows? Mine just broke just inches outside of this device. I didn't see any mercury leak out.
No, the adjustment screw is set at the factory and locked. Infinite switches have a limited life and will eventually wear out, if one isn't working correctly it will need to be replaced.
I have a Jenn-Aire flat top with a dual burner control that has sockets for the wires to connect to it. It looks to me like there is a capacitor inside. Are you familiar with these. I suspect the control is defective, because the elements have continuity. I am not getting continuity to both L1 and L2. Just continuity to one of them, when I turn the switch on.
Great video. One question I still have is in regard to the switch contacts on L1. Are there separate contacts for L1/H1 and L1/P? It seems that the L1/P contacts would have to be separate for the Pilot indicator to work correctly (for multiple burners). It also seems like a good idea for the L1/H1 contact to open when the control is OFF in case the L2/H2 contacts weld, so the burner can be turned off.
The 'P' terminal is not for passing current/ heating. The 'P' terminal is merely a pilot terminal, one on each switch, that sends power to an indicator lamp to let folks know that a surface burner switch is on.
hello...can you explain in writing about the robetso fryer so I can understand...I'm from Indonesia..I really need information on how to service the robetso gas fryer
The pilot is kept lit by a safety gas valve, using a thermocouple. This thermostat basically controls the temperature of the oven. The bypass screw is adjusted by turning the screw clockwise to increase your bypass flame, normally set at 1/8 of an inch height of flame from the burner. This is set when the oven temperature is met. For example 350 degrees F. Then you set the bypass flame. You want it at least 1/8 inch tall or less.
Very nice video. I have blue seal deep twintank fryer GT46. It is fitted with both thermopile and and thermopile with it gas vales. One of the fryer's pilot is not staying on. When I leave the pilot holding knob, the pilot switches off. I have checked both thermopile and thermo couple. Both are working fine. Please can you advice what else can be wrong? Is that mean the main gas valve has gone? Or any solenoid in the valve has stopped working? Can we replace solenoid or the whole valve needs replacing?
