I run an ignition switched lead from the starter battery to my DCDC, from the DCDC to the large fuse block. I also have solar running into the DCDC. Redarc 25ADCDC.

Twist them together, both negatives. On the new model you have a black and a black-white. Both negatives.

The official wiring diagram from ARB: www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/5-08.pdf See the last page, which is the dual compressor.

I’m sorry, I mean the 5th wire that is much smaller than the other 4 what do I do with that one?

@@tikkamike Yep, if you have 2 large red, 2 large black, and one small black, twist the blacks together.

@@tikkamike I think the small black is the ground that links through to the black on the switch loom that powers lockers... from memory. Either way, it doesn't hurt, as per the diagram linked. Its really about losing the rubbish on the smaller secondary loom that is the switch power.

Its just a trigger circuit, so it doesn't need to be large. If you had a diode for 1A that should be more than sufficient.

Not sure what you mean?

I noticed you put some clamps on the sail plane. What was that for?

@@TerenceMcGourty Oh... that was to hold it down because I had loosened its bolts to get the liner past those mounts.

Wiring diagram: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

Its not about the relay, its about stray currents that get sent back up the line with motors. All electric motors do this, and where there is sensitive equipment (modern vehicles and/or modern accessories even in older vehicles), those stray currents can kill other circuits in the network.

Nice. Yer... mine is still going strong for me.

That sounds pretty reasonable. 8m at double the max current of device, more than enough. That would provide more than adequate room for derating in hot conditions too.

Contact Isuzu.

Yep, that will do it for only running when ignition is on.

I have the 21 x terrain, so yes.

2023 has a factory fitted guard

@@iansmith5232 Thanks. Says a lot about this issue when the factory fit protection. Wish they did that from the get go.

I am a qualified electrical fitter, mechanic, auto elec and specialised in industrial electronics. You are wrong in your assertion on how electricity works. Yes, ARB protected each motor individually. Short circuit is what you are protecting against. Equipment fault, in essence. When a short circuit occurs, either motor, the current on that short circuit will be in excess of 80A by itself, let alone the current drawn from the other motor still running normal. A single fuse will instantly blow, regardless which motor fails. Simply, if motor A shorts, motor B will still only draw what it draws, it does not magically start drawing more current whilst the other is in short circuit. My professional opinion. If one motor fails and blows a fuse, you DO NOT want to be continuing to use the other motor. You want that entire piece of equipment to cease, be removed and repaired/replaced. This is how people burn their vehicles to the ground in the middle of nowhere, because they're all backyard experts and think they can wire 12V knowing nothing about electricity itself. Its the same as this stupid industry telling you to use circuit breakers on 12V. Circuit breakers are not actually the best of the two options for vehicles, as fuses are designed specifically for over-current protection, which is what you want in low voltage high current environments. A short occurs, current increases, fuse blows. Fuses do this faster than circuit breakers, yet an industry makes them available and people use them because you can reset them. Back to, how to burn a vehicle to the ground. When a fuse blows, you have to understand why it blew and fault find, not just replace it and go on as though nothing happened. It is a sign something went wrong and if you don't know what, power should remain off.

If you're running it more than 2 metres away from battery, 4BS, if closer, 6BS is perfect for the job.

Yer, I think ARB could honestly keep all the crap to themselves and just make the loom plug and play compatible IF a person was buying air lockers too.

Hi. I never purchased this with any intent to put an RTT on it. Due to the X-Terrain having all the rubbish fibreglass around the tub, that is what hinders an RTT IMO. I would not use a rack to put an RTT upon, I would use rails myself, as that is all that's required and much lighter than a rack. I think my setup could take the iKamper Skycamp mini, but even that would be pushing it because of that fibreglass. Honestly, if I had built the car for an RTT on the rear, then I would have gutted the stock fibreglass and roller cover, replaced the cover with a HSP electric roller cover, added rails to attach an RTT. That way I would be able to add a full size RTT, no limitations. If I needed the tub for ute reasons, I could remove the RTT and open the cover still. I built my Dmax for towing a camper, using the tub for additional storage to enhance the camper and remote trips, ie. 80lt fridge in tub, I can add fuel jerries on the rack, etc etc. We have a Stockman Rover ultra camper, so our setup works as intended.

No vid for that... pretty standard stuff to add the struts to the tailgate for ease of up and down.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OeXya_jhDwY.html

I didn't do anything with it except undo two bolts, slot it on, torque them up. I have no leaks, no issues with the GMF one.

If you don't understand electricity, then you should not be touching it, as you will likely burn your vehicle to the ground. Seek someone local to help you or a professional.

www.swe-check.com.au/collection/distribution-units-bussed SWE Check.

Lightforce: au.lightforce.com/collections/custom-switches

Yes, it is this one: www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/au/isuzu-d-max-x-terrain-20-cur-r-top-slii-rack-kit.html

The switch is double pole, double throw I think, so only one side is needed, as it normally switches both compressor and links into other switches for lockers. Ground is ground in a vehicle, regardless how many batteries are in it, they all act the same, so just one. You can take power from any light source for the switch OR power it from anything when ignition is on. How you power the light switch is optional, just note that you don't want always on power, as any light will be a consistent drain on your battery otherwise.

No idea. I removed this though, it became painful to use the windows after having it for some time. I ended up removing it for the auto mirror module instead, as those I want tucked in when locked.

From memory, about 20mm total height. I have low profile drawer slides, and they fit with still about 10mm clearance.

The purple wire is the wire you put power onto in order to turn the unit on. You run power into a switch, out of the switch onto the purple wire.

See diagram Nick which hopefully helps you out: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

@@wai4wd all good thank you figured it out.

Glad it helped. Its an expensive fix if damaged.

Hey Drew, the small black is the ground return for the switch IF you're using the backlighting wire. If not, it has no use. Two of the three wires are back lighting for the switch, one is the trigger on/off. I have a wiring diagram at: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

Both sides are divided, so a top and bottom typically. The one extra, typically central, will be the switch lighting. You can confirm this just by putting power onto one, then test the prongs with a light. If you have a multimeter, no power needed, just test it with continuity. Without having one in front of me, I believe they're a double pole, single throw, simple, on or off, but the terminals are double pole which means you can run two sources via a single switch.

Cheers mate. I’ll give it a go

They are slightly different lengths, about 1cm I think, but nothing that changes how they function. Both are awesome still. One of the best mods I've done that just work as intended.

No. The pack comes with little stick on foam pads which you can place on the inside of the panels, where you think it might do just that. On my recent 4k round trip Melbourne Brisbane return, at 110 I noticed the front door panels got a small vibration from that, so I took them off and had a look, noticed a large area without a foam pad, fitted it and put it back on, no more issue. I actually just wash the car with them on, then I take them off and wipe the inside of the Rhino panel and then wash down the car panel. The instructions do say, you should remove them weekly to clean and check, but I tend to remove them only if really dirty and the car needs washing. No issue so far with them. I actually broke a mount hitting some rough stuff in the Glasshouse mtns when up in Brissy, no damage to the panel itself (the car that is) and no damage to the rhino panel, just the clip broke. Replace the clip, put a new stickon on the car panel, locked it back in place and all still good. I have some decent pin stripes down my rhino panels now, so they're doing their job well for my use.

@@wai4wd thx I might invest in some

Just glad to hear it helped. Thanks.

12v is 12v, lithium, agm or lead acid, works the same. Mine is connected to my lithium 2nd battery, but works the same if I connect it to the start battery. Only difference is that I don't need to have the car running to avoid flattening my start battery, running on the aux.

Glad it helped mate. Thanks for the kind words.

That is awesome... thanks for the update. Really great the OEM took it seriously to provide an OEM fix.

Really glad it helped.

Sounds about right as the battery acts as a big capacitor in essence. Is that your point? That is, if you wired it literally from the battery terminal via a switch. In my case, because I have other circuits running on the same power circuit... needed.

@@wai4wd Yeah, kind off. I think the diodes are to protect the vehicle circuits/ECUs from any current running from the still spinning compressor engines back into the vehicle system, if the internal relay of the compressor is being engaged by i.e. ignition. But let me think if I've got some sensitive components myself in my aux battery system .. :D

The tub is water and dust proofed, so all good.

@@wai4wd what tub lid are you using?

@@kanenaysmith9287 Just the stock one, which is Mountain Top. When I got it I undid everything and reseated it all, sealed it, because I could see light between it. Just 6 or 8 bolts inside that lock it down. I couldn't remove it as I would have to pull it all apart for that, but it allowed me to lift it a little to ensure a good seal. Then I sat on it above each lockdown as I did them up, using locktight along the way. I also have a dust seal installed, the mountain top water run-offs are now through the tub and exit behind the tail light, instead of at the back tail gate. From my research, there wasn't an option on the market that was totally water and dust resistant... so I just made mine to do that the best I could, and its pretty damn good now. I've travelled rain and dust and the tub is good.

Hi, yes, but the FR mounts on the rear only fold sideways. I need the mounts to fold forward for parking access. By the time I had realised many things, I had already done stuff and put things in places, done other things, like wiring lengths, and it was then all too hard to change to just the FR mounts. It was an experience, let me just say. And a bit more expensive. I do like the extra height though... getting the antenna as high as possible when upright was my goal... just a happy accident though in how it all came together for me mounting antennas to a rack for the first time.

I was just thinking further about this when I was walking the dogs... asking myself why I ended up with the double mount and didn't mount on the sides... then I remembered, I also have the axe and shovel on the sides, which blocked me from mounting the FR mount only on the sides, which would have done the job for me, but screwed me over for shovel and axe holders to fit correctly. Been a while since all this happened... made me think.

Just pops off from memory. Flat screwdriver under an edge.

Put a multi-meter on each side of the diode. If you have power one side, and not the other, you have it the wrong way round. Multi-meters have pointy ends for a reason, so you can stab the cable just enough to get a measurement.

@@wai4wd Thank you for your prompt reply. I think in addition to the possible diode being connected wrongly my issue is also that I don't have a power source line connected. I don't have a wire already tapped into a switch in the cabin so I am thinking of connecting the red-yel line to the +ve terminal of the battery and connecting the purple to red wire and in turn to pin 3 in the isolation switch will this work? If so which way should diode in the red-yel wire go? Your help is much appreciated.

@@ksyapp Here is a wiring diagram: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

I use heatshrink on all joins, I use braided expansion sleeve on cables or conduit. Just depends on the circumstance. Usually braided, as its tough and you can get it in heat resistant version if running near hot stuff.

Hi, this wiring has a switch to turn on/off. If left on, the system will pressurise periodically providing there are no leaks (which would pressurise a lot and drain the battery super fast) which will drain the battery over time. Isolation by switch is advised for all auxiliary items.

@@wai4wd Thanks, I meant does it have a pressure cut-off when it's not isolated. As in cutting off between tires when undoing dust caps etc...

@@JBBunno Ah… sorry, my bad interpretation. Yes, it has a max pressure around 140PSI that it will cutoff and hold at.

Yes, at present, but even on mine being white, once the bullbar and rear bar are on, both matt black, that will blend in better. Looks good on darker vehicles... but yes, concessions are made for protection vs looks.

Hey mate. There were a few places dust can get in on mine. I have sealed most of the drain at the front of the tub, just not all of it, obviously to let water drain if it gets in. At the rear of the tub there are gaps which have to be sealed as the roller seals don't meet fully. I also loosened the entire tub fibreglass system and pushed it down hard to ensure it too was sealed, as there were gaps in mine from factory. I put light in the tub and then looked in from outside, reseated it all until I could see no light. You could seal it, being the easy way, but I just reseated the entire thing. Basically I sat on it while doing up the bolts in the tub holding it down. I've driven some serious dusty red dirt and soft stuff, and mine is sealed. If I can do it, you can. As for tub slides, I have the evakool travelmate 80lt in my slide, which is 410mm high I think. The engel 60lt is 440mm high, which will just fit in my slide by 2mm. I went with the evakool because 2mm wasn't the best scenario for me. These tub slides don't sit high, as the slide is sunken back into the runner. I think evakool stopped making the travelmate series, but you can still buy them, as I just Googled them: TMDZ 80L EVAKOOL and Outback HQ still had it. These slides, the guy at Stockman said he made the large one exactly for this fridge, as he pulled his out in his Ranger tub to show me when I went out to buy them.

Thanks

Hey Deon, the power to the fuse distribution is added to the positive terminal mounting which had a spare bolt to add an accessory cable. So I used it to run one cable to the distribution where I could then manage loads and fuse each one without messy cabling at the battery itself. I didn't have to touch any of the default wiring at the battery, because it had that spare bolt for an accessory cable to be added. Is that what you meant?

Thank you, it is what I was after.Will it be right to say, when I ran the cables to the red and grey Anderson plugs on the tow bar, to do the following: 1) single cable to the 5 maxi fuse box 2) cable from maxi fuse box to ignition switched relays 70amp 3) 2 x single positive cables from switch relays to red and grey Anderson plugs 4 ) connect negative cables from Anderson plugs to chassis What size cable do you recommend me to use for the battery connection to Anderson plug Did you use the micro 2 fuse connector with cable for relays switching Did you make the bracket where everything is mounted on at the battery side Thanks again for the information it helps a lot.

@@deondebeer5990 Yep, all correct 1 to 4. From the fuse to anderson, it depends on what you're using them for. If your tow DCDC is a 40A charger, then the tow vehicle obviously needs to have cable to suit, then from the fuse to towbar. If you run those two positives together to the towbar, then you have to derate the cables amperage to 80%, as there is a magnetic affect that occurs when you run cables together, along with heat which increases resistance. Then you have voltage drop to calculate, ie. Length of cable run x peak current x 0.017 / cable cross sectional area in mm2. So, simple, 40A DCDC, lets say its roughly 4M to end of vehicle then 5M from tow to charger, 9M total. If you used 8B&S, you would drop approx 0.8V, which is way too much voltage drop as a single cable. 6B&S you have 0.45V drop. Still too much. 4B&S you have 0.3V drop. Acceptable. Remember, that is single cable runs, not put together in a conduit. If you put them together into a single conduit, you need to be larger. If 3B&S fit into the lug, go as big as you can to avoid voltage drop. I use Jaydee Cables here in Melbourne, they also have tables that you can use to calculate your voltage drop and derating factors if you run more than a single cable together. Me personally, I have no larger than a 30A charger so I can keep V drop minimal without adding too much weight. With a camper the run is smaller, so about 8M total and 4B&S keep VD around 0.2V total.

Hey mate, wiring diagram on my blog: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/