Definitely want to get a KLR. Getting tired of destroying my body on the potholes and manhole covers with scooters - even a 250 Kymco is very limited in that regard. I figure a budget of $4k for a '17/'18 that was just a commuter and adult owned should do it.
Good video on your KLR gen1, LED lighting is a must and like you said frees up the stator. I don't do heavy off-road on mine and prefer the 16-tooth countershaft sprocket too. I had a 06 KLR that came with the Oversize front disc and steel braded brake hose, and it was noticeably better than stock front brakes. Good on you getting the doo hickey and thermobob done, when that doohickey spring breaks it can cause a lot of damage, ask me how I know. I'm currently going through a 4k mile 2007 KLR before I ride it making sure it's tip-top. Good Video, sorry to hear about your dad, I lost mine years back and miss him every day, the fact I work on my own bikes and turn wrenches is a tribute to him. Thank you.
I ordered a kit a few days ago. 3 more days to arrival. In watching your video I just about an an OH SHITTT moment. Air mod plug. Don't recall that in the order. I now see it is included in the kit but can be ordered alone. From their web site. Included In The Kit: The MCP 316 Stainless Needle, 1 Pilot Jet, 1-2 Main Jets, Slide Stop, Air Cut Off Mod, Two MCP stickers, Quick Set Up Guide and Detailed Step By Step Installation Guide. The brass replacement choke nut and thumb adjust mix screw are advised but optional.
It's essentially a jet kit with a new slide needle that can improve performance. Performance can be noticeably improved if paired together with other modifications. I myself am not interested in changing too much such as the exhaust, airbox and other stuff because I live in California, and I don't want any hassle from the cops. Emissions regulations are strict enough as is. MCP kit claims to improve throttle response and overall performance of the bike without sacrificing mpg performance. Throttle response is noticeably improved but mpg performance we'll have to test again after I play around with the mixture screw.
the quoted settings are a starting point and there is a procedure at the end of the instructions to set the mix screw for YOUR bike. Not sure if it was followed or not. so no, my starting point recommendations are not wrong.
Have you rode a xr650l? I'm curious how it compares in torque A 5mph snap of the throttle brings the front tire STRAIGHT UP (after carb work, which was a must) What about the kLR? Thanks
Wheelies are my forte. Every bike I've owned (600 and 1000s sportbikes) required clutch to pop a tall wheelie. 650l is first bike I rode that could without the clutch. Is that something the kLR is capable of? Thanks
I just spent the last few weeks going thru my carb ( it sat for 9 years ) , and I had bad throttle response before it sat, however, going thru the carburetor with all new parts, it works great and no need to modify the carb.. it(s) running great now.
Hi. I have a question about the Rocker arms' shafts orientation. I had to do service of top end of my bike engine as one of the baring has fail on the camshaft, lucky, I have stop using the bike immediately when start hearing some ode noises in the engine. I did replace the rocker arms with shafts, but now I am not sure if I have installed the shafts correctly… Where should be the flat spot of rocker arms orientated - UP towards petrol tank or Down towards ground? Thanks for helping... I was looking all over the net but couldn't find the clear answer
Literally about to do this on my '05 KLR. Same color too! I'm looking at buying a Rubbermaid Action Packer (about $90) to act as my top box. That will fit an insulated delivery bag inside it, which should be big enough for large pizzas.
I just wanted to document all my maintenance and provide video evidence of the status of components. Again this carb mod is extremely controversial for some reason so the results that come out next week will be completely objective and folks won't be able to draw conclusions based off of false accusations. If it fails it fails, if it performs well it perfoms well. No more conspiracy nonsense.
Rocky Mtn ATV: Yeah, they have been GREAT about getting parts to me quickly with no issues. But I've read that they are much less than great when things go badly. Thanks for showing the rear suspension linkage. That is on my to-do list so it is nice to know that you encountered no problems. I don't have the money for the fancy shock mods so no problems there!!! Cycle Gear is LAME. Great video. Great channel. Keep up the good work! All those other KLR channels are way too predictable. 😀 "Is the drink going to spill?" Hilarious. I would think the drink would ALWAYS spill if you are hitting any potholes. You have great survival skills.
I expect that maybe you update your Facebook page more frequently than you do youtube videos. Can you provide a link to your Facebook page, please? Thank you. Also, what kind of marker did you use to write "127" on the intake cam's bearing cap?
Hey liberals_destroy_everythin2497, the markings on the cams were already there when I bought the bike so unfortunately I dont know what kind of marker would work. I have added a link to my Facebook profile in the Kawasaki KLR 650 Owners group. I haven't updated it in a while actually but I plan on sharing my newest series for the MCP kit testing.
I used to live in the Sacramento area. I have never liked I-5 to L.A.. You get bonus points for covering it on a 250 single. 😀 I thought it was torture even in my car. (I have a 2004 KLR now.)
Holy crap! 6'5"! I feel bad for you. Nobody makes street bikes for tall dudes. Luckily there are some dual-sports that shouldn't have your knees in your armpits. Still, I would think you are cramped on the KLR? Just a bit?
Very nice video brother! If I may ask, how did you mount that alu topbox to your bike and also, what screen is that that you have on your bike? Thanking you in advance.
I used the preexisting bolts that go through the rear rack on my KLR to secure the mounting plate for the top box. These top boxes have universal mounting plates that can accommodate a variety of rear racks. The screen on my handle bars is a TPMS - Tire Pressure Monitoring system. It shows my tire pressure, temp, and the time. I got it off amazon for like 20 bucks.
Wow thank you for replying! I have a similiar top box that I kept when I sold my GS1200, and that had a thick plate type rack with standoffs that it secured it, I will try and do what you did. And I meant your windscreen sorry. Lol . Thank you for taking the time to reply to me brother.@@reubenreports2904
@@wildboby1 The screen I have is two different pieces. I believe the bottom part was already on the bike and is a parabellum extended windscreen. I added a windscreen extension ontop of it because I'm 6'5 and even the extended windscreen wasnt enough. I bought the clip on windscreen extension for a different bike a few years ago from Amazon.
Congrat's on breaking even! I've got my first valve clearance inspection on my '98 coming up in about 2K miles. I'm a little intimidated by the disassembly. Your confidence is pretty reassuring.
I have to admit I've become quite accustomed to inspecting valves since I had to do it over 15 times on my old bike. The process on the KLR is not as complicated as you may think. There's plenty of very detailed step by step guides out there. My main advice would be if there is an adjustment necessary; be sure to use some kind of towel or rag to keep bolts from falling into the bottom end of the engine.
Remember to reinstall the cam chain tensioner BEFORE you rotate the engine. I am going senile and managed to mess up the cam timing TWICE, simply because my mind wandered. Don't make my mistake!
Hi. Did you repair the bike? I have same engine in my dirt bike, i put 1000 miles on it already. What do you sugest, should i take head off and install new, modern valve seats?
I did not repair the bike, I bought a KLR instead. I understandably got tired of wrenching on the bike to no end; so I decided to buy something to replace it instead of wasting my time. I'm not sure where you can get new valve seats for this engine or if it will work. I don't know who has ever tried. The CSC RX3 to my knowledge is not even available to purchase anymore and I am unsure how long parts availability will last either.
@@reubenreports2904 look. There are many types of valve seats around, just type in google. This engine is very popular, ssr have one, gpx, my asiawing. There are many bikes with valve seats problems, honda nx 650, some ktms. But if you have no time or expirience, it is better you go for bullet proof bike. I will wait with my zs177mm, just checked my valves, intake 0.06 and exhaust 0.08 mm after 1000 miles, 1600 kms. Greetings from Austria. Good luck with you new bike.
@@reubenreports2904 This engine has rocker arms that hang on the valve cover and for this reason a small valve clearance was chosen. It is possible that the valve cover stretches and lifts the rocker arms upwards, so there should be a valve clearance of around 0.2-0.25 mm so that the valve stem, which also stretches, has enough space to close the valve so that the valve on the cylinder head can cool down . I still have a Honda NX650, with the same engine as the XR 650L, with a similar cylinder head, with the valve clearance of 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust always satisfied. no problems. With small zongshen everything is smaller, I also let the valve clearance be smaller, of 0.06 inlet and 0.08 mm outlet and observe. If the valve clearance is too large, they will start to rattle when the engine is hot. Meanwhile, if they don't rattle, next time I'll increase the valve clearance to 0.08 inlet and 0.10 mm and listen to see if they rattle when the engine is warm. So I hope to ensure that the valves cool down well.
Great info my friend. I will try on my 08 a lower front sprocket, one tooth less, instead of increment the rear one. I might achieve more torque and yet sacrificing speed. We'll see.🤙
Useful info, hoping it warms up soon so I can switch to my CB500X for deliveries. I've been wanting a bigger top box, too, and now I have all the more motivation! I wasn't sure if DoorDash would give me deliveries with drinks if I switched to motorcycle on the app, maybe that prevents stacked orders? I'd love to know what that tells them on their end and how it affects the orders I would get.
Wow. I just recently found out about this company. Not a good buy I guess. Chain stretching, constant valve adjustments, completely rebuilt by the dealership. Seems like a nightmare. 😬🙃
I did the math for my situation where I was driving a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan vs my new 2023 Honda CB500X. I'll be saving $820 a year with my CB500X. I underestimated my calculations with my CB500X because I said I would average 65 mpg. In reality I am averaging 70-72 mpg. That extra $820 will go to the principle to the payments for the bike. Also the CB takes regular 87 octane.
I have been using a similar setup for 5 years, but I have a big Sterlite black box that sits over the back seat and is bolted to the back rack. I also have a book bag on the tank. All black 81 Honda CM450. I don't do nearly as much maintenance to mine, only when something breaks or needs replacing. I get about 50mpg on it and use it to haul groceries. My Honda CM250 gets about 60mpg but is less convenient or useful for carry groceries. Groceries are literally the main purpose of my bike, back and forth to the grocery store. I've done long trips on it though. I put saddle bags on my 250 aren't too much of a fan of them... a motorcycle duffle bag over the sissy bar on the back seat can hold a lot, but you're always reaching around when its full or overloaded while driving to stand it back vertical on the seat. I stopped driving all my cars completely when I switched over to the bikes because of the high MPG. And they are just fun to drive. However, you have to schedule your trips around the weather and suit up and suit down every time you make a trip, or make a stop somewhere (helmet off, helmet on, etc) which would not be practical if you had to make a lot of stops. I would buy another old cruiser bike if I can and have been keeping my eyes out for a deal. My 250 I got for $500, and my 450 I traded an old RV for which got 13mpg. I probably lost a lot on that trade but on the other hand, got a much more useful and usable vehicle. I would never drive the van again, but I drove the heck out of the 450 so yeah... it's not all about money but how useful and reliable it is.
Wow, you are a trooper! I couldn't completely get rid of my cars (hauling family around and what not) but I definitely use my bike as much as I can. The luggage setup on my bike is so useful for grocery shopping, Only very bulky items like toilet tissue, paper towels, ect. tend to take up most of my space. You are absolutely right about the bigger displacement. The slight loss in fuel economy can definitely be worth it in the long run for better reliability and more capability depending on the needs.
@@reubenreports2904 Yep, I drove mine year around in the Georgia. I only stopped driving them when I went blind about 3 years ago. About to get second eye fixed, so swapping in new front brake master cylinder and caliper tomorrow to be back on the road after 3 years of parked. Inflated tires, lubed the chains. Already test cranked them up. Will change the oil out, and flush the brake fluid in the second bike as well. 30 pounds of cat food I'll probably fetch some other way, though one would actually fit in my box above. Just be top heavy. Having that front windshield does a lot of good keeping the wind off you in the winter, and I wear welding gloves from Harbor Freight ($25) for hand protection. Dress in layers... i.e. sweat pants under jeans, two pair of socks one over the other, and tshirt/sweatshirt/motorcycle jacket to stay warm. Love spoked wheels, so after looking at old sportscars with spoked wheels being insanely priced, I was like, pfft, if that's what I want, more traditional spoked wheels... why don't I just get a third bike!
@@reubenreports2904What I have on mine is the Steriltite Footlocker Plastic, Black.. Outside Dimensions: 31 1/4" x 17 5/8" x 13 7/8" $27 from Walmart. Mounted on the rack with some metal rails on inside, then bolt holes drilled through. Under the front part that sits over the seat, I have an old alluminum drive case wedged in there for support and I hope mounted on somehow so it never falls off (it's been years, I don't remember). When I bring groceries home in it, I put all the heavy stuff (sodas, milk, etc) towards the front (my back). When my uncle saw it for the first time... a very old motorcycle guy... he was like... that is one sweet setup. Only thing I don't like about my bike is you sit high in it and it's very heavy. Stopping on wet ground with slick shoes on with no tred where you have to hold the bike up might be a recipe for disaster. But then I thought I was trading for a CMX450, not a CM450... so... I got what he had for a bike. It's still Honda rock solid like a swiss watch. Only thing I've ever done to it is brake pads, tires, battery, oil changed, and adjusted the points once upon a time. Probably should go over both bikes with a fine tooth comb but... I'll do it as I go along. Get both of them driving around first and then do a little here, a little there, or just wait until next spring
I am finally thinking about trading in my 2011 Honda PCX for a 2023 XR150 or ADV 150. These Japanese bikes are just commuting monsters. If it is raining I take the Crown Vic but, on a clear day there is no reason to pay those v8 gas prices
The XR150L has been around for well over a decade in foreign countries where road surfaces are quite poor (hence it's dual sport design). People regularly get well over 50k miles on those engines. They are very simple, unkillable, and extremely fuel efficient. They aren't very fast but they definitely will last a long time. Maintenance is a bit more frequent since they are air cooled and valves need servicing a bit more frequently but it's extremely easy to do. If they weren't so small and I didn't need to go over 45 mph; I'd consider getting one. 100+mpg is amazing gas mileage.
great perspective about saving Gas Gas prices are insane now also KLR's are the way to go...cheap to buy cheap to keep it runni etc...i got a 1988 KLr and i love it enjoy your awesome video
I made a post about it on my Facebook with all the links provided, link below; Hope it helps. facebook.com/groups/klrmoto/permalink/10162574923567468/?mibextid=zDhOQc
Wow. now much heartache would be avoided if one just talked to the local mechanic first, just to see what they are willing to work with before jumping into the deep end.
Hello twotone3471, Thanks for watching my review of CSC RX3. The "local" mechanics at least in my area as I stated in the video won't touch bikes like these because of the warranty on their work. I have however taken the bike directly to CSC themselves to have the main issue "fixed" which was valve recession. Even after receiving a whole new top end the valve recession continued because of the quality of manufacturing and engineering is garbage (according to extensive research that's been around for decades). For more information on that I suggest you watch my in depth video explaining the valve recession I experienced on my bike that I attach to the end of every single video I made about my RX3. So ,what was the solution? I bought a bike that could handle my commuting expectations of riding everyday and doing over 10k miles in one year. I bought a klr 650 and haven't looked back; it's been a world of a difference in quality and reliability. The best way to avoid the frustration and headache of owning a junk bike is to not buy one in the first place.
@@reubenreports2904 My Local mechanics subscribe to "If you didn't buy it here, take it back to where you got it from" for the most part. I own Yamahas, and the local dealer won't touch them. It's not a specific Chinese issue, it is a issue for motorcycling in general. Glad you enjoy your KLR, and hopefully have replaced the "Doohicky" as it will cause your bike to fail if left unreplaced.
@@twotone3471 I bought a doohickey kit for it even though the previous owner said they replaced it (Lots of folks say they replaced it but never do). But sure enough it was actually replaced already but without the torsion spring; I replaced the extension spring with the torsion spring and also added a ton of other mods/upgrades. I'll be doing my 1 year review for my KLR 650 in a couple days to talk about all that in detail but the sum of it is; I really love this bike.
@@reubenreports2904 I know where you are coming from, as my first bike was a Kymco/Lifan K-Pipe 125, which lasted about 7,000 miles (Odometer failed, so number is approximate) of tinkering and work to keep it on the road. Bike basically needed dipping in Locktite to keep from shaking itself apart, and the frame had to be welded twice before it died of electrical failure and lack of parts thanks to Kymco's lack of support. Picked up a decade old Yamaha V-Star 250, which has spoiled me with it's reliability, even if I'm not a fan of longer trips on it. It's pretty, it's as reliable as a mutt on your porch barking at the mailman. I get why people like Japanese bikes. Recently bought a Scooter, a Yamaha XMAX. The dealer will begrudgingly now work on my older Yamaha, which needed some maintainance, and I now have a highway bike, which I enjoy. It's not Japanese though, despite being sold as a Yamaha, so I do worry about it's long term quality (VIN starts with "M" which says Africa made?) so owning two bikes seems to be wise, as there's a likelyhood of one or the other needing to be wrenched on, or tires replaced. Good luck with the KLR video, hope it's a banger! Cheers!
Check out my final long term review first. If you are looking for a reliable commuting bike; my short answer would be to buy Japanese....I learned the hard way.
@@reubenreports2904 I will. I have an Xr650r sumo and a ninja 250. Both have needed less maintenance and mods to stay running than my Hawk 250. My wife’s 89 XT250 is 3-4 times the quality of the hawk and it’s 34 years old lol. Maybe I’ll just get the Yamaha SCR 900 or a 1st gen vstrom 650. I just want something I’m not so big on. I make most Harley’s look small at 6’3” 290lbs.
what was the original issue. mine let down 500 miles from home .we are now working on the issue. mine will rattle pretty bad at 7000 rpm. its 4 months old. less than 2000 miles. we re working on solving the issue.
The issue I had with my bike was valve recession. At the end of every video I've made for this bike, there's a window for the video titled "CSC RX3 Valve Recession issue - Everything we know". That video goes into explicit detail of the issue Ive been experiencing and examines factors that have caused it. (The engine design is ultimately the issue according to the science). You can also watch my final review video titled "CSC RX3 Long term final review- BUYER'S BEWARE" to see a summary of all the other issues I've had with the bike besides valve recession. Have you ever done a valve adjustment on the bike yet? If not that would be the first thing I would take a look at.
There is a video pinned at the end of all my videos regarding the RX3 titled "everything we know about the valve recession issue so far" it's a very lengthy and in depth video that clarifies the issue I experienced and singles out main factors that played a role in causing it. Link is listed below if you'd like to see it but the short answer is that the engineering and quality of engine components are vastly inferior compared to modern manufacturing standards (no surprise for a Chinese bike). I'd also encourage you to watch my final review video on the RX3 as well where I go into detail about all the other issues I've had with the bike besides valve recession. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E6sI3cbVKes.htmlsi=-cTjMG7BPvMuojps
