My 2001 5.4 f250 and my 2010 4.6 f150 both randomly stall. The f150 4.6 has a slow start, even worse in recent days. Could this evap purge valve cause a truck to stall in slow speeds?
Awesome info, I’m working on a 04 f150 and the fuel pump has been replaced and module also and still hardstart long crank times. I’m going to check these pids and see if anything looks off. Thanks for the info!
Hey man, appreciate the video and thorough procedure documenting. I'm failing to build pressure have extended crank to start like over 30 seconds. Once it's idling desired ICP PSI is 800 but I'm only getting 480 to 500. Clearly there's a leak somewhere. IPR air test reveals no leaks. ICP air test with IPR blocked by a ball valve on the IPR test fitting reveals no leaks until after about 5 minutes when gurgling and air can be heard through a listening device when placed inside of the oil filter housing. I've read that the only time you'll hear air or oil gurgling at the oil filter housing is when you have an internal leak within the hpop. I pulled the h pop and bench tested it only to find zero leaks whatsoever. Anybody have ideas on what could be going on here?
So I cranked up my air compressor to 125 which is the max and bench tested the hpop again. It took a minute or two but now I can put a heater hose to the low pressure intake port on the h pop and hear gurgling. Sometimes it takes a while for the leak to reveal itself. Another tech told me that these systems are designed to run at thousands of psi and when you're only putting 125 into it it may take a while to hear the leak.
@jakebuilt3581 Hey Jake - HELP!! I have a 2007 f150 4.6L. Cranks a long time before starting and I can't figure it out!!! So far, I replaced the Starter, Oxygen Sensors, Purge Valve on firewall, MAF sensor, some sensor on the fuel rail and the spark plugs and coil overs are less than a year old (less than 20K miles). A reputable shop has not been able to help me either. Very frustrated. What else do you suggest I might check or replace? I have an Evap canister coming in 2 days for my next attempt.
Same problem and purge valve was replaced. Sometimes no start cold. Fighting this problem over a year. I believe the purge valve is to purge the canister of fuel vapor from tank. Remove fuse 27 and truck fires right up a few seconds. Maybe a bad new purge valve. No codes found.
@@Roger-il8iw having same issue. Replaced purge valve but still takes a while to crank most times. Idle seems fine but sputters with acceleration on occasion. Did spark plugs, air filter and two rounds of Techron in the tank and it doest stall now when I stop but still having the issues above. Might be a separate issue but my fuel guage also frequently reads way off. It’s always done a long crank right after filing the tank but the other issues are relatively new
@@zachhopkins9719 that sounds like a fuel pump issue. Never run the 5.0 under a quarter tank. Think ok a quarter as empty. If it gets below a quarter, that can cause the long crank as well. The fuel filter is lubricated by gas. So low fuel can cause it to burn out. Make sure you prime it well. Maybe even multiple times to make sure there’s no air in the lines. 5.0 is a great motor, but keep in mind it’s a sports car motor. They are a little finicky when it comes to fuel. Good luck. The sputtering while driving is a concern. If that continues definitely get it looked at.
I have a 94 f150 5.0 that is very hard to start under 40 degrees Fahrenheit also notice the coolant gage reads low all the time now don't know if related. Any ideas what would cause this
The dash gauge and cpu do not share the same sensors. I accidentally broke mine on the thermostat houseing while replacing the water pump. Found the truck ran better and to surprise the temperature gauge worked. Dove all winter like that.
I have a 2009 5.4 f150. The fuel pump fuse shot out under the hood. It would sputter starting and was also sucking the fuel tank in like it had suction inside it. I have relocated that fuse, replaced the starter, replaced the fuel pump, replaced the evap purge valve. The tank no longer sucks in and it runs perfectly once cranked. The temperature has been back in the 60s this week and it sputters to start. Turns over great but acts like it is flooded. What else could it be? I hear of a cannister purge valve? Any other ideas?
Hey thanks for the awesome video! Can you recommend any good meters to see more data but won’t break the bank? I’ve got a basic $30 OBD meter but am a rocket data analyst by day and would love to be able to see as much data I can get my hands on for my f-150 (and at the same time justify the price to my wife haha)
Do you see this issue on the 6.2l gas engine in the F250? I have a 2018 that only sometimes takes a long time to start. Maybe once every 10-15 starts. More often on first startup but not always. Thanks
I got the 10 5.4 3v and it has a rough long stumbling start when it sits over night. Inside or outside. Warm or cold. (much worse in cold temps)i changed my maf sensor but that didn't help. And it runs great after I start it. No misfires. No lack of power. Just at the first start up of the day. I did disconnect my purge valve and started my engine and I could feel it lightly Sucking at my finger if I placed it unto my purge valve outlet going to fuel tank. So if it is my purge valve. Why wouldn't it have a hard start everytime. Instead of just the first startup of the day?? It only has a rough rich bad start at first start of the day. After that it starts great..
@@MikeFarowe I fixed it.so here goes.. I'm from Canada and we got really cold weather here for a couple weeks. But I had my truck parked indoors over night. But that didn't help with my during the day start ups. So what it was. I have a bully dog programmer and I had 5 star tuning write me a 87 octane tune. And that tune must've gotten really confused with these cold Temperatures.as it was written in the southern states. I must've not told them where Im from. I put my truck back to stock and it started up perfect. I drove it like this for 3 days no issues. And the days did get warmer so I installed my tune again and it hasnt skipped a beat since. 👍 Hopefully this will help you
@@Matthew-wt7xowhen I bought my truck it came with this hypertech tow tune. It’s also a 2010 5.4. I also have a video on my page of it starting up. It cranks perfectly, and take about 10 seconds to actually start up and run. It runs perfectly fine when it’s warm.
So where is this mythical purge valve?? This didn't tell me shit. I have these exact symptoms on my 2010 5.4. What the hell was wrong with points and condensers and carbs?? F this shit. I'm just going to build me another old school truck without all this bullshit.
I have the same sh*t I have a 2010 f150 5.4 start up in morning I cranks alot then finally starts, sputters and puffs smoke finally it's sorts itself out and then runs fine. Untill it decides to do it again. Did you fix yours? Yeah carbs are better in my opinion then these stupid computer programed junk
@@fordinlinestraight No, I haven't fixed it yet, but I think I found the problem. A little more research and I discovered there's a temperature sensor that goes out that causes the symptoms. I learned that if I plug my block heater in at night, it fires up fine in the morning. Problem is, the idiots at Ford put the sensor under the friggin intake manifold. But I also found out that if you remove the alternator, you can reach it with a ratchet wrench. That's my plan anyway. Good luck.
