Bro i have a 2012 and i saw a post where the guy removed the entire inverter and drain the battery coolant and all to get that mount out. seems like you didnt need to do that. i wonder if its different in older models?
I’m not sure why, but it’s not working for me. I’ve tried multiple USB’s and different .mp4 files, but my 2018 Volt doesn’t recognize any of the files at all. Any advice would be appreciated.
Can’t imagine doing this when it’s covered under the warranty. Dealer knew all about it and replaced the switch and the wiring harness. Left car at 10:15 and it was ready at 11:30. Mine is a 19 Volt. The switch must be the large black unit, but what is the wiring harness?
When I made this video years ago the Chevy TSB said do not cover it under warranty. Eventually enough people complained they offered it under warranty if requested but still won't consider it a recall. Also my 2016 was out of the warranty.
The Chevy Volt is an exercise and an experiment in technology. Its coolant systems are complex and prone to leakage. The electric water pumps are a common area to develop leaks. Gravel and debris that enter the grille at highway speeds can do expensive damage to the radiator. That's why there exists an aftermarket screen that protects this vulnerable area that owners can purchase online. I check my Volt's coolant reservoirs daily for any drop in fluid levels. Periodically, I have to add fluid to the big reservoir that sits above the right front tire. One annoying thing about the Volt is that the car doesn't tell you what temperature the engine or battery is in real time. This is basic information that would allow me to avert possible catastrophic engine failure prior to getting that "Engine Overheating" warning display during the Summer. That warning message doesn't tell you specifically which component is overheating. I was tempted to install an aftermarket temperature probe. I'd need four; one for the engine, one for the drive battery, one for the 12V battery, and one for the inverter electronics behind the rear seats.
If this fix doesn't work for you and you cannot get your Volt to turn off, a new connector and wring harness are free as well the install at your nearest Chevy dealer (reference GM Service Bulletin 19-NA-206, dated February 2020). Let me stress that if you cannot get your car to turn off (Chevy Blazer, Malibu, Traverse, Volt, GMC Acadia), you 12 volt battery will run low and be killed if you don't get it to a dealer ASAP. The dealer will not give you a free battery ($200) plus battery test socked me for $234. So if you cannot get it to a dealer, disconnect the 12 volt battery in order to save it. If you get it to a dealer, disconnect the battery when you get there and alert the service department that you did so. GM will reimburse them for the installation of the harness and shifter, not the battery. That's on you. Just figure I'd give you a heads up.
Thanks to your video, I was able to replace and fix the shifter (13534319). There is absolutely no way I can figure this out myself. With the help of 10mm ratchet (search amazon for MTNRM810), it was a breeze. shifter + ratchet is about $100. saved at least $500.
Few other Gen 2 Volt owners have confirmed that GM mistakenly put the coolant level indicator too low. It should be at the top of the black sticker. I had the same issue on my car, added 50/50 DexCool, went to AutoParts store to clear the code.. 15K miles later still going strong. 2018 Volt 76K.
I may have to do this for my 2014 Volt. I mostly notice shaking/thunking going over curb cuts or if I whip the steering wheel back and forth while driving about 15 mph...feels like a mass moving left and right and making hard metal to metal contact and I can feel it in the floor with my feet - very near to this mount. I get the popping sound, too.
Me too now. I have a 2015 volt how did u fix it. What was the actual diagnosis….. ima girl this stuff is over my head I can’t even explain to a mechanic
@@missmarycbell mine turned out to be a loose sway bar link. If your symptoms are the same as I described, suggest the sway bar link to the mechanic. It’s a very easy and quick fix. I could have tightened the link bolt myself, but I went down the motor mount rabbit hole. The simple things to check first are the sway bar links, ball joints, and shock mounts - all are part of the front suspension.
@@jedi_mapperp4073 I drove it out of state like that🤦🏽♀️ just now the mechanic said I would be fine hope so. I’ll check this when I get back hopefully it’s nothing one mechanic think it’s coming from inside the transmission
I love it! You get a lot of car features and tech for a fairly cheap car. I am a bit worried about the ability to repair it in the future as it get older.
Great video, very helpful. I would add, if you are "fat fingered" like me, have a magnetic reach tool handy for when you drop the washer and nut putting it back together..
Just in case there's others looking for this fix. I took mine too the dealer under warranty to a Chevy dealer. They don't see many volts in general and only one or two of their mechanics know anything about them. But I got mine fixed in one day. I was expecting them to do this but the service writer told me they put in a bypass harness. Not sure what or how this works but when I went to pick it up the problem was fixed and hasn't come back since. Maybe this will help anyone. I own the 2017 Volt.
Excellent Video....great camera work, and amazing how you squeezed your fingers in to get the bolt through....Justin you need a thin pair of gloves !!! LOL !1
Totally needs to be a recall. I actually had this replaced maybe a year and a half ago when I was still under warranty. And guess what? The problem showed up AGAIN a few weeks ago. Good job GM! Not surprised to hear that there's a 5th revision. Thanks for this video, there's no way I'm paying them to fix this.
This repair should be covered under the Voltec warranty for 8 years 100,000 miles. Look up Service Bulletin No.: 19-NA-206 static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171895-9999.pdf
@@storkman No I didn't insist on the Voltec, I have no solid proof of that. The dealership I went to (Fremont Chev) says they will "inspect" it before they can estimate how much it costs. The inspection alone is $200 out of pocket. I say F. it and just replace it myself. Cost me < $100 and car feels like brand new ever since. (I love this car btw) Good luck with yours. Please let us know how it went.
Heyo! I noticed it's mostly Gen 2 owners around these parts but I've got this problem in my 2011. Just curious if anyone else has done the same on a Gen 1 and if the process is similar. I can only assume so for now. And if anyone has any info as to whether the micro switch would be the same part, that would be helpful too. In any case - thanks for the video!
@@lcwood87 As far as I know the STP issue occurs on every volt eventually and once it appears it only gets worse, though the rate of degradation may be different for everyone. It wasn't persistent at first for me but it gradually became more frequent until eventually I couldn't get the car to shut off. I can't say how long it took to degrade fully because I bought my volt secondhand but it took at least 9 months or so. I ended up switching out the whole shifter assembly and it fixed the issue. Note: if you do end up switching out the shifter, you will have to take off the center console in the backseat first before you can remove the front center console, and then you will have access to make the swap. It me took a while to figure that out because there are no videos displaying a gen 1 swap.
