KFE Brake Systems is the next generation of Brake Pads and Disc Rotors! We manufacture brake replacements and brake upgrades for a wide selection of auto manufactures. For details please check out www.KfeBrakes.com for detailed catalog, and learn more about the different brake products we offer for Honda Accords, Civic, Toyota Camry, and Corolla and other manufactures and models. These products include Ceramic compound KFE Ultra Quiet Advanced Brake Pads, and Semi-Metallic compound KFE Quiet Comfort OE Brake Pads. With our Vision "To become the most reliable, and comprehensive friction company.", we aim to bring our customers the most advanced brake pads and disc rotors.
I have less issue with the hub area rusting. My biggest concern is the brake surface rusting. I bought a set of brakes with geomet coating on the rotors and the hubs are fine, but honestly, I don't care if they look pretty. But the brake surface rusted, pitted and completely wore out a set of ceramic brake pads in 11 months/9,000 miles. I'm just looking for a rotor with better rust resistance in the metal itself, not a coating on top.
Most of the protections you get will be on the Hub, side of the rotor, and some you will get within the vanes. Rotor surface itself will rust if sat, but generally speaking they do not "rust". If you are looking for something that never rusts, you can try Ceramics, but they are usually 10k each and only made for sports cars. For daily driving vehicles, if you feel rust on your rotors is a major issue, just change them whenever you feel that way. Still can get them relatively "cheap".😄
I just bought front and rear on ebay for my 2016 F165. I paid $50. I can smell how cheap they are now. I will do a video review like I did with Detroit Axle cheap $26 dusty front pads.
Its good to see that regardless of the type of corrosion protection, nothings perfect and eventually rust will form. I went with geomet slotted rotors as I'm doing a complete brake system overhaul with brembos. I was disappointed to find out after ordering the rotors that the geomet coating is applied BEFORE the rotor manufacturer drills/slots the disk. Therefore there is no coating and will lead to surface rust. I was bummed I made the wrong choice, as the zinc coated options are applied AFTER the slotting/drilling process. But it looks like it really doesnt matter all that much. With all the grime, brake dust, and light surface rust eventually the slots would get rusty/dirty looking anyway.
@Andy H, thank you🙏very much for watching the video and taking the time to leave a comment👍. Like many other applications out there, the Tungsten carbide coating is very good at what it does. The question is always are you able to cost effectively scale up. 😁
@@KFEBrakes Engineering Explained (EE) has a good piece on it. Ive only been able to find places that coat the rotors pad contact area. Id like the entire rotor coated. (Roughly $1400 for four coated rotors)
@@KFEBrakes If someone sold them (Tungsten carbise coated rotors), and they lived up to the hype, Id order them for that or maybe even a little more. No rust, mirror finish, low dusting, no fade, longevity.
Maraming salamat sa panonood ng aming video. Ang mga motorsiklo sa pangkalahatan ay gumagamit ng parehong pangunahing paggana ng sistema ng preno tulad ng sa mga kotse, ngunit ang mga rotor sa pangkalahatan ay mas manipis. Isipin na ligtas na ipagpalagay na maliban sa mga contact area sa pagitan ng mga rotor at pad sa isang motorsiklo o isang scooter, ang parehong mga uri ng coatings ay makakatulong na maiwasan ang kaagnasan.
Hi Rick: Thank you very much for watching the video. You are absolutely correct that Front rotors do more braking than Rears. What we lack is a lab to make sure all conditions are 100% perfectly matching, and test the rotors with SAE J2334 in a perfectly controlled lab. Without a real lab, this was the best that we could do to get it as close to the lab test as possible. At the least you can see the condition of the rotor that went through the same weather condition, same temperature, same humidity, same mileage, same salt spray, same salt tank soak, on the same car, and in the same period of time. Hope you enjoyed the video, and we will try better next time. Have a great long weekend!
Thanks for watching the video👍. We do not own the patent on the proprietary coating. The reason why we used the words "proprietary coating", rather than the name of the coating is because when we contacted the company to see if we are able to use their name in the video several times they never got back to us. If you watch part 1 of the video, and check out the color and texture of the coating on the rotor. You can easily search online for similar products, and find the name of the coating. Thanks for leaving us a comment! Have a great Labor Day!
Nice one! Keep up the great work! You should go and take a look at PromoSM!!! I used it to promote my Instagram and it helped my posts start to trend. It could really help you promote your videos too.
Thanks for watching the video. No, E-Coating would be painted. The would electrical current to help bond the paint to the metal. There are several brands that are selling the "proprietary" coating that are using the actual name of the coat. There are many other brands, and sellers online that is basically doing the E-Coating with that color. Hope that helps.
We do not have actual data on how much the coating is retaining heat with in the rotor. What we can say is that the part that gets the most air ventilation are the main rotor surfaces, and that area after the initial break-in will be uncoated. The hub areas will mostly be either attached to the hub or the wheel itself, the heat trapping with the coating we think will probably be limited. If there is a test we can do we will see if there are anything we can do.
Most rotors will be replaced before any corrosion becomes more than cosmetic surface corrosion. The coating is purley a cosmetic point with alloy wheels.
Hi David: All rotors correctly manufactured should be balanced. If one sprays rust inhibitors, it can cause an unbalance of the rotor, and eventually lead to rotor run-outs. Rotor run-out leads to pulsation and noise during braking. Please be safe during this Covid-19 period.
Cost probably, I would guess (depending on the grade) that S.S. rotors would be $3-400 apiece. I'm not a metalurgist, just a toolmaker, but heat transfer and warping could be a problem as well.
Like @WarthDader74 @fubar totale has already said, cost difference between Cast Iron and Stainless Steel are night and date. Also, generally speaking the cast iron will have a higher percentage of carbon in them compared to the stainless steel.
I found a work around. I bought 2010 DB9 recently even the rotors are barely even used, they all rusted not only on friction surface. So I sand blasted them and finished them in custom mix light titanium color cerakote. And cleaned the friction surface. Now they look better than new. Cerakote promises that it withstands red heat and resist salt corrosion.
@@zeomarmob Love the shape of the DB9. Cerakote is good to go on a DIY level, but it might not be feasible in terms of standard daily rotors on a mass scale. Their V-Series that claims to hold up to 1800 degrees goes for $8.75 per oz. That is pretty expensive. Thank you again for watching our video, and taking a moment to leave us a comment! Merry Christmas!
We have contacted the company many times who owns patient for this Proprietary coating, but they never gave us written authorization to use the name. What we can say say is that there are many major international friction companies uses this coating on their rotors. You can try finding it that way, but be careful that there are companies out there with fake coatings (they just try to match the color and texture), or companies that uses names that plays with real coating's name trying to fool and confuse the consumers. Hope that helps.
Hi Neutrodyne: We made the video hoping to provide some answers to buyers who may be having a hard time deciding the type of coating on rotors. Hope you enjoy the video 👍
Maaaan I wanted to see VENTED coated disks... Had 2 pairs of Vented disks needed relacing due to Corrosion in the vents... Could have chipped it off with screwdriver after 5 years...
Hi Zeed, the front rotors are vented. You can clearly see the rust on there. The test was pretty rough on the rotors, but might not be as harsh as 5 years with the elements.
Nice. We are sure there are many customers with rotors that are in great conditions after 50k+. Rotor rust conditions has to do with usage, weather conditions, and location. Someone from the North East that parks their car outside, with not only salt from the ocean, but also with salt from the winter will most likely have rotors that are more rusted. A customer from the South West that parks their car inside and with very little element contact will most likely have a rotor with much less rust. If OEM works for you, then that is what you should continue to work with. 👍
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Good video. Both the spokespeople are excellent. Stephanie is outstanding. I wish I knew the brands of the rotors you tested. I was looking at Zimmerman Zinc coated vs Brembo UV coating. Based on this video, I'll go with Brembo.
Hi Ben, thanks for the feedback. These are unbranded OE Spec rotors with these features. We cannot speak for Brembo, but if you search for "Brembo Brake Rotor with UV Coating", you will see a paper report Brembo put out for their coating. 😉 Hope that helps.
Easy answer is no. Generally speaking, any kind of rotor protection is either sprayed or soaked on, either by itself or w/ some kinda of extra bonding technology/technique. . If let say you are reusing rotors that are still under manufacture specification thickness. The rotor surface should be turned, so there isn't any rust on the surface itself. The other areas are hub, and the edges of the rotor. The area that will really effect runout is the hub area. You need to clean out the rust that are on the hub of your rotor. Reusing rotors that are not turned, or have extreme lateral runout is probably the top reason for brake noise after a brake pad change. If you try to remove that rust most likely you will take off whatever material that was original on there (which at this point have been degraded), and get through to the iron. In that case, you will most likely get new rotors on the next pad change, so its better to have a little bit of rust than runout rotors.
@@armstrong4196 👍 What we did to the rotors will probably be a pretty good representation of what one can experience in a real world conditions. For the most part no rotors in real world conditions will be soaked into salt water for 5+ minutes. We believe it is safe to say that the proprietary Coating will be able to hold up better in real life conditions. Thanks for the idea though 😈, we will see if there is chance for us to make a video by leaving the rotors outside for a year or two. Then see how they turned out 👍.
Poor test protocol, but I would watch Stephanie boil water for an hour. To the subject: my rotors on a 2017 Highlander can drive in the rain one day, park in the garage for 24 hrs and sounds like grinding when it rolls. Sometimes the pads stick and snap when it first rolls. Too bad you did not consider judder with the combination of your ceramic pads, that would be a primo test. I hate judder and consider the poor selection of Toyota;'s pad/rotor selection as a design defect. Rotors trashed in 20k miles of normal driving. This is a serious issue for rust belt climates and gets little attention.
Thanks for the follow up guys! Part 2 have already been shoot, it is currently being edited. Once that is done, we will be able to upload it. Thanks for taking the time to watch our video!
+Emanuel Muresan Thanks for your interest! We have a 2 years, 25,000 miles limited warranty on the brake pads. The pad can last 10K or it can last 40k, it really depends on how you drive. Customers who does a lot of spirited driving on slotted and drilled rotors are getting around 10k with a new set of pads. Customers who does a lot of cross country gets over 40k easily. Most customers who does regular city/highway driving gets anywhere between 20-35k miles with a new set of pads on standard rotors. The duration of the pad life depends a lot on the driver him/herself. Hope that answered your question, if you have more feel free to let us know. Happy holidays!
