Majority of my videos are for my general interests and things I take apart and repair. My other Blog site is Eastchurch Gap Erosion Group - but all I want you to do is "Just enjoy". Regards - Peter
Excellent video! Used this video to help combat rust in the bonnet and a better drainage system for water off the windscreen on my mobilvetta top driver 52. Unfortunately I've been having problems with indicators working intermittently. Have you had this problem? I know the relays are under the fuse box (behind the dash) but have not got a clue which is the relay for the indicators. If you could provide any help it would be much appreciated
Hi there. As your indicators are working (of sorts) firstly check all the bulbs are working by turning on the hazards. - if any bulb has gone it affects the way the relay works. If all the bulbs are working the next step I would take is to off the + lead from the battery (for safety) then remove fuse carriers complete with fuses untouched then remove the lower dashboard cover (which is only 3 screws from memory) This will expose the fuses and relays. Make sure nothing metal is touching any of the fuse base feeds then connect the battery and turn on your indicators - you can now hear and feel which relay powers the indicators as the click is quite loud. Change the relay and you should be done. Hope this helps. Regards Peter
Excellent video Peter. Invaluable information if you’re like me and like to know how to service,look after and repair things. If I have any problems with my ultrastore, thanks to you, I’ll know how to get into it. You’re a top man 👍
Thanks for the video - saved me loads of time. The low temp fan ran continually after a journey and the only way to stop it was to tap the side of the relay box to release the relay contacts. I purchased another relay for €20, swopped it out and now all working fine. I opened the old relay and the contact had burnt out.
Hi John. Glad it’s been of help. The relay takes a lot of current so the contacts can get welded together easily. I found that a switch in the cab to energise the relay before the temperature switch cut in was a great help in keeping the van running cooler up in the highlands of Scotland where I spent a full month… Good luck on your travels and look at my channel as I have loads of other tips in video. Best regards Peter
We are struggling to get the same view as you to check the electrodes working. Do we have a different model? It’s US103-21012135. If it’s the same, how do you get the top off so we can take a good look?
One of the temp sensors seems to have failed for me after a bit of a hill, couldn't have picked a better place to break down in Spain... luckily i have heaps of lifepo4 battery, inverter and charger so am just charging the starter... while I'm here I'm thinking to just add a relay or switch to disconnect the (lower radiator?) temperature sensor when ignition is off? Fans have been a nuisance on two occasions, one at a border crossing when nobody can hear eachother with the fan roaring even with engine off... Temperature on dash reads fine and fans usually shut down after 5 mins parked, but today I was pulling relays from under the dash searching (fruitlessly) for an easy off switch, and it ran the ageing starter battery low... Anyway... engine running again now and charging via alternator... waiting for the fan(s) to kick in so I can see which temp sensor wire I should splice... Not using a timed relay while bypassing ignition seems a bit of an oversight by whoever designed this system.
Hello peter i heard that the pipe needs to be extended/diverted due to the water getting in the box through that aswell might be worth spraying lanogaurd on the gearbox and the water then cant penertrate should just run off
Hi there. To be fair if the scuttle drain pipe is secure and run correctly the rainwater does not go on the gearbox. I looked at this early on and the water runs off fine… Regards Peter
Not only is the Video Camera Panasonic MDH1 itself cool, but you also have a very cool British English accent. It's immediately obvious that you are English. Cool video Peter. 👍
Here you go. Bob Holder Andrew Dawson Posted this on my site others found it OK. Anyway here you go. Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! ￡30.95 | M50 Slope Meter HUD Off Road GPS Smart Inclinometer Car Digital Display Tilt Roll Pitch Angle Inclinometro Auto Intelligent Volt a.aliexpress.com/_EyJygyb Regards Peter
I have a 2001 Peugeot Boxer with the same fan and relay configuration. Currently, I'm facing an issue where neither of the fans are running. I've meticulously checked all the fuses and even experimented with the radiator sensor, which has three wires. Apparently, you connect one pair of wires, one fan should run, and when you connect another pair, both fans should run. However, despite these tests, the fans still refuse to operate. I've also tried the bulb trick across the same two connections on the relay box as you did, but the fan remained inactive. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Mick. I would first go looking for the main power connection NOT for the relay coil. The relay should show 12v in the switching side (not to coil) if you can’t find it then there are 40A fuses up by the battery on the off side wing and perhaps that could be an issue. If a fuse has blown be sure to check to see the cause as it could be the motor has gone or some wiring has become damaged. The fans take a LOT of power but operate independently from the ignition so that if the engine is hot and you turn off the engine the fan continues to operate till the stat turns off the circuit. Just a case of digging I’m afraid. It’s always the earth of the relay coil that gets switched the relay contacts handle the heavy load. Regards Peter
Hello Mr, I am looking for this model everywhere at the moment to buy it online. I'm having more and more trouble finding it, it's disappearing. Do you know of any sites where they still sell it? I can buy it second hand, that doesn't bother me.
Hi Stephanie- the glasses are a bit old now so would have been superseded with a new model so I can’t help you anymore. Keep on looking is all I can say. Regards Peter
Peter firstly many many thanks for taking the time in doing the videos much appreciated,only owned this 30 year old van a week and had nothing but issues .Im in the process of pulling my unit out ,all water disconnected just need to unscrew gas supply and pull it out .Same red light issue you had .The white electrodes looking through the vent are in a terrible state ,I’m in south UK ,what parts supplier did you get your parts from please ? And what do they call both of the white diodes again please ?
Hi Dirk. Only one part was needed in my case which is the special flame failure electrode and if you pause the image of the part you can read it on a larger screen. It is NOT a diode - there is a very small AC current which changes to half rectified as it travels from the electrode to the burner and this is the flame failure device that’s used on most gas ignition systems. I got the ceramic electrode off eBay.
Don't suppose you would know what the actual functions are of the temp sensors on the thermostat housing? Blue, green and black(this one has nothing plugged in) connectors... I can't work out why so many sensors including one in the fan... help would be much appreciated!
Hi Tom. Unfortunately I can’t help you - I did have a circuit diagram but long since gone. Doing the bypass switch solved all issues so not needed to proceed any further… Regards Peter
@@tomrobbins666 Hi Tom - while your doing that if the stat is “sticking” then it’s a good time to fit an override switch as well so YOU can have some control over the fan. Not much work involved - have a look at another video I made on my channel… Lots to see just click subscribe please and browse around. Regards Peter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g5jJFGRd-pI.htmlsi=6qm0U6LyKbsZ2af6
Hi Al. Thanks for the comment. I made the video because like you and many others there was nothing out there to help and Truma were no help and I’m not made of money so had to tackle it or go without. Decided to make a video of the repair and so pleased I did as it has helped many others. Got to keep the old girl going and with each passing year it gets a bit harder but we persevere. Hope all goes well. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter! Well I did it!!! After a 3 hour road trip to get the part £13.37 (Bargain on your £40!!) they were £45 and upwards elsewhere! Anyway I fitted it (after cleaning 20 years of S.h.1.t out of the bottom) and a little tip for fellow headcases, I managed by luck to grind a straight line in the top of the retaining screw instead of grinding it off completely and it unscrewed!!!! Anyway, it fired up first go and I thought I had nailed it but then after 5 minutes it cut out, I was gutted, anyway kept resetting and then it lasted 5 minutes again and then the last time lasted 15 minutes - I then had to leave so will go back and see what happens this morning. I hope this information might be of use to others!! I'll send another update later today but all in all looking good so far!! I think between us we have saved at least £400 and we know the job has been done properly!! Cheers once again Peter!!
Hi Al. Sounds like your on you way. Make sure the following criteria are met when you test. 1) you have a fully charged battery. (Circuits are voltage dependant). 2) the water boiler is not fitted. 3) the gas cylinder is full and is delivering the correct pressure. Assuming you have done your tests with above fully met the fault still suggests the flame failure because the probe is sensitive to position. It must be in the flame to allow half rectification to be transmitted to the main board. - if the flame is blown away from the probe the rectification will stop and the ignition circuit with start clicking even though there is a wholly lit burner and then if the flame stays away from the electrode for any time the gas valve will shut off the gas and the red light shows. If the above sequence starts and the ignition starts clicking then stops this again shows that the rectification process has started again and the flame failure circuit is working and doing its job which can be perplexing. Hope this will further help you. Regards Peter @@aljamieson491
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter, I had already put it all back together before I fired it up, tank et al yesterday and yes I had met all your criteria's already! Thumbs up! Well it lit first time this morning no problem at all and then after about 5 minutes it shut down again. I think flicked the switch around 5 times at least and then it finally lit again and remained lit for at least 3 hours before I switched it off. I off loaded a load of hot water in order for it to refill with cold and repeat the heating process. It recognised this as it should and kicked into life again (exhaust making loader noise due to increased combustion) and then once reached operating temperature reduced itself back down again so it was all operating correctly. You're total correct on the positioning of the probe. I simply gauged the old one and sat it in the same position. If the fault still persists I will simply take it out again and move it in ever so slightly further! I'm going to email Truma and see what the supposed set distance is supposed to be unless you've asked this question and know already please Peter? Fun n' games buddy!! Cheers!
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter, did you get my second update please buddy? And I also asked if you knew the specified gap between the rectification electrode and the burner? It worked for 3 hours yesterday then I switched it off! Just tried again but the wind is up and not helping matters! I'm going to pull it out again next week and nudge the electrode in a couple of mm and see what happens!! Cheers!
Hi Mev- got the electrode from eBay ref 70000-56200. Truma really knock you as the same sort of thing for a normal gas boiler is only about £7 but Truma stitch you up good but no choice - hence the price!
@@brucepeter2007, Hi,Peter, l paid nearly £50, no luck, l just noticed my boiler spark electro no clicking nothing, gas valve open, l managed to spark manually with long kitchen lighter, what do you think? Spark Electrode or spark sensor or module on motherboard, mother board looks new but l don't want to spend a lot of money, Thanks for reply
@@mevdee2008 Hi there - all I can say is you need to tackle it methodically and start with your fuses then check power is getting to the unit and the board. Your description is very vague and unhelpful. If your getting no ignition spark or clicking sound suspect the board which are expensive. The electrode in the flame does not prevent gas ignition it just prevents the gas from flowing by shutting off the gas valve…
@@brucepeter2007 Thanks for reply, my controller 50 and 70 degrees showing, power there, when l switch on gas valve opens and 10 second later shut off itself red light on continuously, but spark not ticking, l ordered spark electrode cost me £30 hopefully will fix the problem, fuse is OK, Thanks again
@@mevdee2008 That’s a bit more information so I would suspect it could be the HT generator on the main board as you should be able to hear the ticking of the spark - and you say you can’t…
Thank you sincerely for these few videos. I had the same fault & stripped the unit to replace the rectification electrode & the element. An expensive repair but its all fully working again now. And that is in no small part to your video, so thank you!!.
Hi Paul. I do thank you most sincerely for your reply as it’s the few who reply positively that have made me carry on with the videos. Most don’t even comment but I’m so glad when people do because it’s saved them an expensive repair as a replacement boiler for our old van costs an arm and leg. I could not afford a replacement so had to jump in with the repair “blind” as there was nothing on RU-vid to help which is why I made the video. RU-vid is great to help people out with information - almost as good as Google 🙂. Thanks again for your response. Safe travels. Regards Peter
Hi peter just purchased our first ducato dingy 2002 plate. Thanks so much for your input on the engine seals that help stop the rust i.e. water ingress into engine compartment very very informative thanks again kevin
Hi there.- If your coolant antifreeze is fairly new catch the water in a bucket when you drain down. If your antifreeze is years old you should replace it anyway as it does deteriorate. You can’t do the repair without draining down as the sensor screws directly into the fluid reservoir. Regards Peter
Super job in the bathroom - I have been scratching my head for a solution to that failed foam backed fabric. Which spray glue did you use and how is it standing the test of time? Thanks.
Please remove this video. My brother Joel has passed away and we would very much Appreciate not having his name being out there in bad faith. We would like to thank you in advance for your understanding peter
Peter Bruce, have you updated your CCD cameras to get a clearer view ? If so cant you update your footage ? I see that you published this video 14 years ago, CCD chips and digital cameras have made huge increasements during that time.
Hi Peter. Unfortunately now I can’t afford to update the gear. It was expensive when I got it but it’s old hat now but to get some good fear would cost me too much now to justify the hobby as my income is just my OAP now. Perhaps in the next life. Clear sky to you sir. Regards Peter
My dad passed away. He had this youtube video written down on a piece of paper from many years ago. I miss my dad so much. He musta loved watching this video.
Dear Anthony. My condolences on losing your dad as it’s always hard going through the memories of belongings as I know how it hurts inside… This video was nostalgic for me and as a kid we used to camp here and I used to wander all over the area with other families kids who used to regularly camp there as well although I can’t remember now spacific names so your dad could well be one of the other campers who used to pitch up their tents weekend after weekend throughout the summer… I learned to swim down there and learned to fish with a home made rod which I caught my first fish with. Our group of “friends” used to slide down the sides of the bridge supports and a few of us even rolled off into the stinging nettles at the bottom - I can remember it well as I was one of them and rolling about in nettles in shorts is not something you forget. If you get a chance look at the video and see if your dad could have been “one of the lads” in our jolly bunch as as we get older (I’m 72) memories of our care free childhood often make us smile as our childhoods were so uncomplicated then with only yourself and your friends to interact and find something to do - unlike now where kids tend to grab a hand controller and look at the game on the TV or a tablet… Your dad may have let slip in a conversation with you bit of information at some time about his childhood which may tie up with that scrap of paper he had that pointed to my video channel which woke some of his memories… Best wishes to you and your family. Regards Peter
Hi Chris. I’m still using the baffled type on both heaters and they have been in for years and make less noise despite what people say. I tried the straight through and gave both away to doubters who confirmed my findings. Cant say anymore. Happy new year to you. - do your own thing. Regards Peter
That’s good stuff but the old trick of engine oil mixed 60/40 with white spirit works very well and costs next to nothing. In the good old days🤪when engines splatted oil everywhere underneath an engine you never found any rust locally in the direct vicinity of the engine.and a rusty holed sump was unheard of. The mind boggles… Just saying🤔
High Craig. That part of the power supply I made from additional parts and as it’s messing about within the mains power supply I can’t post how I did it. Got to keep people safe. Thanks for viewing the video - many ideas on my channel - wonder if you’ve seen the hot water from a diesel heater… Regards Peter.
Hi Nik. I did everything by “feel” but I remember having to have the A risers the shortest. You have to aim for bringing the CofG of the pilot with all riser lines tight to about a third back from the leading edge similar to a plane. You can only do adjustments after you “feel” the wing as it’s tethered and flying… No hard and fast rules with this type of with just belt and braces so to speak. Regards Peter
Your are correct re amps at starting up but it depends on the KW output:) We do know once the voltage drops below 11 volts or a little less the heater will shut down.
Hi Phil. Cant put link or photo on here for some reason😳 go to Alibaber and type in adheasive rubber strip for car windscreens and they will come up. - you want the 19mm wide x 2m size. Hope this helps you. For interest the adhesive used has been very stable and not peeled off in all the hot weather during summer. Regards Peter
Hi there. You are not clear about what inlet… the combustion pipe inlet 25mm dia - should be outside together with the stainless exhaust pipe - that way the whole combustion process comes from outside. This keeps you safe from fumes and also prevents any smell. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Thank you Peter that’s great,I’ve seen some people leave inlet pipe indoors,as they say it draws warm air from room your heating and obviously exhaust going outside,your video’s very good will do same way as yours.
@@wfcwfc1 Hi again. I know a lot of people leave the combustion air intake indoors but anything to do with the combustion process should come from outside so that way you’re always safe. Stay safe and stay warm. Regards Peter.
Hi Alessandro. On the plug in relay you will usually see a diagram showing where the relay COIL pins are. Use a multimeter on the corresponding relay socket pins to check for the 12v positive supply which is live to the relay socket base all the time (straight from battery) the negative Earth is the opposite pin so the 12v supply goes through the relay coil which energies your switch…. Personally to save issues knock up the 12v x 21W bulb and a lead like I show in the video - that way you can always “feel” your way through electrics without causing blown fuses and damage… Regards Peter
Hi James. Sorry I can’t he you as I picked one off eBay as they looked all the same - the only thing I did was send the seller a note via eBay message asking the kit that would fit my year of van and chassis and they confirmed it would fit. Was a good investment as the handling is much better and the rear springs are not bottoming out anymore. I just asked the seller so if there was an issue I could return the kit. Just so you know BUY THE EXTENSION SPRING U BOLTS AS YOU WONT GET THE OLD ONES OFF - better to cut them off with an angle grinder - saves time and a lot of effort. Good luck and thanks for looking at my video - plenty of others on my channel if you would like to subscribe. Regards Peter
Hi Marcus’s. Once the ignition takes place and the combustion chamber gets hot enough it will support its own combustion without the need for the glo plug to be energised. The glowplug turns off and it’s the fan feeding air and the dose pump supplying a precise volume of fuel that keeps the combustion going…. I hope that give you the information to help you understand the process. Regards Peter
The lake is Chislet Gaps ,a shallow, almost flood plain,spilt over from the river past Wetstbere, it's private yeah. Canterbury & District own the fishing rights on this part of the Stour. Lovely club, been a member for years. 😊
