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nice jig Would like to see it make a thread like say on a rolling pin and a corresponding nut, I don't know if it can do that though because holding on the platform would be difficult I guess any views on that please
Logan - I had spent far too much time in Texas when I was in the military - almost all of it in the San Antonio area. I agree, too hot and humid!!!! Having said that, during the winter months, it’s not too bad and there are some great things to see and do. Austin s a great place to visit. I don’t know if they still do it but years ago, once or twice a week, they would shut down one of the main roads with most of the bars downtown and have this giant party. It was a ton of fun, lots of live music and people watching …
I was watching the first part of the podcast and thought I should let you know that Shopsmith celebrated it's 75th anniversary last October. For my limited space, it has been fantastic! I have all of the special purpose tools (SPT)s that go with the Powerpro. You may wish to check out the other You Tube channels such as My Growth Rings as well as others.
I made this jig, then tried to cut an 11" circle with a 5 1/2" center using a 1/2 blade. My wood piece is 1/4 inch plywood. The jig is very nice but the blade is too wide for an 11" circle. The blade would not bend enough without breaking it. Going forward, I will freehand the circle cut rather than using a jig.
Woodcraft magazine just returned my renewal subscription check. Discontinued and now partnered with Acitve Interest Media….whatever that really means. Every month I write a woodworking email and send to random people. I would like to know if AIM would care to acquire me too.
I have to agree that given the choice between Panto Router and Shaper Origin, I would choose the Domino and Shaper Origin. I have used a Domino and it is legendary as you know for making fast, strong joints with easier demands on preparing the stock. (Mind you, it's really easy to make a hole where you didn't want one.) Having been inspired by the CNC BaseCamp, I've powered up the dormant little CNC machine in the wood studio at which I am a member. The possibilities open up even more immensely with the power of CAD/CAM mixed together with a router, aka Shaper Origin. Workflow and design thinking change from "what jig do I need for this" to "what do I want this to be" and as Dylan notes, you can bring the tool to the work piece. Not everyone has room for a 4' x 8' CNC table. I think your idea of rolling work table combined with a Shaper, (or even a router and guides), makes for a super series of articles. Thanks for all of the inspiring stories, humour, (even if at the expense of the devoted ShopSmith users), philosophy and information. My favourite podcast and team!
I own a Shaper Origin and a Domino. I use the heck out of both ot them. Between them I can either batch out production parts (Domino) or set up and execute special joinery for a one-off project (Shaper). I did a deep dive on the Panto Router with Ramon Valdez at AWFS in Vegas last year, and determined that it would be redundant for me, and I probably wouldn't use it, or invest the time to master it's array of use cases. If I was running a production shop, I'd go Panto Router over Shaper for joinery. But I'd probably also have a Shaper around for templates, inlays, weird shapes, etc. Caveat...I'm an advanced user of SketchUp and a pretty good user of Fusion 360, so using the Shaper is a breeze for me. If I was making the same choice for my non-production shop but DIDN'T have 3D modeling skills, I'd probably go for the Panto Router.
As cool as both the Panto-router and the Shaper are, i think they do different enough things that its hard to compare their usefulness in someones shop unless that person does the things that those tools are best suited for. As a hobbyiest without any experience with the tools, the Panto-router looks to be geared toward accuracy and reproducing results in a manufacturing sense. The Shaper can achieve repeatability, but its also excellent at prototyping and doing something once that won't need to be produced efficiently over and over. For me, doing one-offs mostly, the Shaper is the tool i more likely to pick up at this point.
Why not drill and tap the end for a 7/16- or 1/2-inch set screw. Add some red thread locker screw in the set screw and use an Allen T handle to run it up and down? Worried about the thread locker not holding? Use a center punch on the set screw hole threads after inserting the set screw to "Jimmy the threads".
I’d get the Shaper Origin over the panto. All I’ve ever seen done on the Panto is mortise and tendons, and I have a table saw, hand saws, drills, and chisels for that. Whereas the Shaper Origin is a portable CNC. Tough to do CNC stuff with anything else.
I wonder how the conduit holds up with the steel ball bearings repeatedly rolling back-and-forth on it. I think standard linear rail tracks are typically made of harden steel to resist wear.
Do not talk while cutting, or you may concentrate more in what you have to say or are trying to say and not in that there is a saw rotating that if you do not pay attention to it, you will regret not doing so! When you use the saw, is time to pay strict attention to the saw, so you don't cut yourself. Then, once off, or before, you can talk. Train all around you to DO NOT TALK TO YOU WHILE YOU ARE WITH THE SAW CUTTING! if they have anything to say to you, stand in front, or make a sign with their hands and this interruption better be of importance since you will be trying to avoid getting cut, and working so all shall learn to don't disturb you with something they can do without counting on you or interrupting you, unless is an emergency but, if they have an emergency e don't want two, so do not talk while the saw is on.
If you have ever made raised panel, or simply paneled cabinet doors where you are cutting the rails and stiles with a molding cutter, then you're going to want to use a tenoning jig. I'm sure there are guys w/ molding planes, or some use the router table, but I inherited an old Craftsman table saw from the early 70s where my father used it to add some cabinets to our kitchen. He had matching blade sets cut (or maybe they were off the shelf) and made the doors exclusively with the table saw and a jig that Craftsman branded as 'The Universal Jig'. I was even able to recreate a broken stile for a buddy at work using a molding cutter and tenoning jig. Sometimes you just want to work with the tools you have and not invest in new tools for a one-time job for a buddy. Oh, first rule of word working: don't tell your friends at work that you're into woodworking. "My kid used the stretcher of my Windsor chair as a step ladder rung. Hey, you do woodworking!"
Curious why you don’t like the insert plate, is it just because you are using the shop made lift? Do you recommend a plate that goes well with that lift?
My first major power tool purchase was a Shopsmith back in 1986. It is a great machine, especially since I only had enough space in my shop for one tool, and with the Shopsmith I got several tools in one footprint. My shop space has expanded and over the 30+ years since, I have purchased several other stationary tools, but the Shopsmith remains as my drill press, lathe, and disk sander.
Despite all the talk of tenoning jigs and methods, no one invoked, (at least by about the 24-minute mark), the name of the oracle, the teacher and user of THE tenoning jig on that inspiring show that is making a comeback on RU-vid. p.s. Windsor, Ontario, Canada is due south of Detroit, Logan.
True story. Norm made great use of the tenoning jig. And his was one of those cast iron behemoths. My only beef with the cast iron ones is that you couldn't adjust the jig for cutting the end shoulders without moving the miter bar. I remember reading one of the magazines early in my woodworking where the author used the tenoning jig for cheek cuts, then used a hand saw for shoulder cuts. I like that approach.
So, Logan, you can cut mortise and tenons on the Shopsmith with the horizontal boring feature, much like the pantorouter as I understand it. Don't like commercial made tenoning jigs as they are too heavy, don't slide well, and seem cumbersome. Shopsmith here go from $ 100 (rusty 10ER) to about $ 600 for a good 510.
Tenon jigs are one (yet another?) place where the shop made is better than the commercial. This is the one we talked about on the episode: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/adjustable-tenoning-jig/ We've also shown this rip-fence version quite often: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/adjustable-tenon-jig/
Oh, could you tell me the address of the place where the October get - together is so that my "travel agent" can make accommodations reservations please ? Looking forward to the event and the tour especially. Also, my daughters and grandkids live in Burlington, Ia. so we will see them too ! Thanks ! Wish we could go to England too (my grandparents were from there), but cost prohibitive unless we win the lottery between now and then.
I found Logan laughing at Shopsmith totally inappropriate and al he complained about was the price yet never gave any other discussion. Yes the new ones are expensive but they have a place. Yes Logan they are not for your shop but they are appropriate. Laughing at the Shopsmith tenoning jig without describing what is wrong with it was also inappropriate. Good bye I departing from you show now. I wish you all well.
Well you missed previous episodes where we've talked about how a Shopsmith does play a valuable role in some shops. Even last episode, John and I talked about how some woodworkers use second-hand machines for dedicated purposes. The jibes were tongue-in-cheek. We'll miss you.
At 16:40 in the transcript, you mentioned that you would get back to letting us know a good way to finish up the copper in the lid. I did not see that followed up later in the video. Can you let us know how you cleaned up the copper?
I LOVE this drill press table! Great job. Do you think this would still prove useful on a bench top drill press or this really only useful for a stand up dril press? I bought a Jet 15" bench top drill press (JDP-15B) and would love to get your plans and integrate this table, but I'm not sure if the height of your table itself (and the crank handles) would end up restricting the distance I can put between the tip of the drill bit and the table. Follow? Also, before I take the big $10 plunge :-) - how difficult might it be for me to find and incorporate the crank bars needed for my specific Jet drill press? Thanks!
On the last joint, why not create a square cut out at the edge. Then you could use a small strip of a different material for the edge. Another idea on the dogbone, is to drill out and plug, with a different wood
Two comments - you guys are probably tired of reading my comments … 😉 Did the black laminate for the coffee bar come from Home Depot? I’ve seen a couple applications of a black MDF that I really liked but I have never been able to adequately source such a material. The black laminate you used for the coffee bar would be perfect! Thanks!
Hey guys thanks for the update! I’ve also been enjoying the podcast, it really helps pass the time on my long commute. Here’s a project idea that you may have already done over the last 30+ years, how about a drafting table for the shop ? I know everyone is trending towards CAD and 8 hours a day I live in autocad electrical but a lot of folks may enjoy the low tech route, I certainly admire and appreciate a set of well done hand drawings. It may be a repeat project worth repeating ~ and another thought I had was a RU-vid on how to do a set of hand drawn blueprints:)
