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This product allows you to have adjustment on the LCAs considering that pivot is fixed from the factory. As long as everything is torqued properly, you won't any issues with losing the alignment.
GM provides an E-locker for the front differential, the nicer interior, and the ZR2-style front end. Some people prefer using the ZR2 as a base, but both packages will perform the same in regard to suspension on the ZR2 and RST models.
It's hard to see in the video, but we created a piece out of aluminum and Line-x'd it. It fills the void behind the bedside when we do the dove tail cut. If you shoot us an email to info@dirtking.com, we can send better pictures that outlines this custom piece. Thank you!
I bought these from you and the pins as well. I'm still having the issue i had with OEM with the pins falling out. What options are there of replacing these pins? I bought some stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers to replace the pins but first i thought I'd ask what the options are?
Sometimes when the factory pins become loose they enlarge the hole too much where it's not a tight enough press fit for the replacement pins. We experienced this a few times with vehicles that we've worked on at our shop. When we come across this we use a TIG welder to fuse the head of the pin to the tab.
Yes but the need to be our long travel spec shocks that are designed for the long travel kit. The standard OE replacement 2.5 shocks are not compatible with the long travel kits.
I wouldn’t call this mid-travel. This is a stock width raptor with upgraded front shocks and UCA. Dirt King’s “Long Travel” kit is actually their mid-travel kit. Similar to similar mid-travel kits, Dirt King retains the factory shock bucket which means it’s still mid-travel.
Is there a 4 link or rear suspension that works with long travel that doesn't require cutting in the bed or having a bedcage? I want something that doesn't use bed space and looks normal from the outside. Like a clean stock look.
Unfortunately, no. To achieve "long travel" suspension you need a longer shock as it's your limiting factor. You also achieve more uptravel when the shock is located higher.
Unfortunately our suspension is not compatible with the 4WD models. The suspension shown in this video only works with 1999-2006 2WD GM 1500s that came equipped with coil spring front suspension from the factory.
Haha this is true. We removed it from our website because it's a highly custom product that doesn't fall in line with our standard product offering. We have a "secret menu" of products not listed on our website such as the Ultra 4-Link Kit and fabricated 9" housings. If you want more info send an email to info@dirtking.com.
From a stock truck? I would budget between $65k to 75k. Feel free to contact our Builds department, we can price you out according to your needs. builds@dirtking.com. Thank you!
Been told that the square part of the bolt is what actually holds the alignment, the guide pin actually don't hold anything in place, it's used as a reference to the marks on the cam washer, in order to use a round shank bolt you would have to punch out the square part in the hanger which is designed to be removed. I just replaced the upper control arms on my 2000 Silverado and used new bolts and cam washers identical to the oem ones and the pins lined up exactly as before. From what I could tell, if the bolt moves in the bushings, that would make your alignment off, so if the bolt isn't torque down, which is 140 foot pounds on nut not bolt head you could have a issue. In my opinion, people that are using lift kits and bigger tires are having the issues, my truck is 24 years old and has never had a alignment issue, had to change the original ball joints out and decided to change out upper and lower control arms as well along with a new rack and pinion, after putting everything back together have no issues but still taking it to a alignment shop to validate the alignment. This is my experience and opinions, good luck
@stevecooper8121 I actually just put these in my 2012 Serria 1500. They seem like a good product, easy to use, and it seems no alignment is needed if you mark everything and start with a good alignment. It just seems that a square bolt/flat bolt with a square in the camber plate would provide even more strength and reliability, but also, the 140 torque spec seems like that's a key player.
The cost can vary depending on your needs. I would shoot our team an email, at info@dirtking.com. They can price you out and answer any questions you may have. Thank you!
The fact you have to get an alignment first with original cambers and then put the dirt kings on is a major turn off, anybody with coil springs knows it’s not an hour job to swap cambers out. You have to completely disassemble the front suspension if the cam bolts won’t come out through the coil springs. NOT FUN. You can simply knock out the alignment pins and put a 1/4 inch bolt through with a nut and washer and your golden !!!!! Cheaper and easier.
I agree it's a pain but once it's aligned then you don't need to touch it again. If you wanted to do a simple alternative then the only option is to tack weld the factory cams. A bolt would not work because the head of the bolt would interfere with the bushings on aftermarket upper control arms and with OEM upper arms it would limit your adjustment range.
Unfortunately, not really. We have many customers that build their vehicles in "steps". Hit us up, we can give you more information on how to approach that. info@dirtking.com. Thank you!
