Very good video! You touched on a couple of things that I hadn't even considered. I now understand them from your excellent examples and will purchase the a two step rather than a powder feed + expander.
I've been using the 550b since 1981 . At the time i was living in New Orleans and on Aug 29 2005 hurricane Katrina took the press and everything I own ( house and all of my belongings ).I no longer live in New Orleans but I did buy another 550 b . I love your video , it's very informative but I'm going to stick with my 550b seems like a lot of labor just to up grade one or two parts . Plus I'm an old fart . LOL
I have the very same press and need to take it apart for cleaning and lubing.was too unsure to do it until i found this video.Amazing work in explaining in detail,thank you sir!
O ok then cool because I only see pic on Home Depot website that sort show a drill press on it and other things as well but I haven’t seen video with it u know so
Thank you for a great video. However, my unit provides average velocity by calculating the velocity registering at 0 feet. These velocity figures do not match up with the power factor figures. That’s because the power factor is calculated using the velocities registered at DX1 which is set at 10 feet (per USPSA rules). The problem ……nowhere on the results sheet is the average velocity for shots at DX1 provided. Is there a way to program the unit to provide an average velocity at DX1 so that it corresponds with the PF? This figure if it could be provided would be far more useful than average velocity at 0 feet. Additionally, nowhere does the results sheet provide an average power factor for a series. The unit only provides individual PF calculations for each shot. is there a way to obtain an average PF number without having to perform tedious math?
Very nicely done video! Just remember the locking ring is a Nut. The screw in the locking ring is a male part which is always a bolt or screw. Not a Nut. A Nut always has a female center. Something that is always good to explain to the wife.
Thanks for the video. Reloading successfully and frustration free on a progressive press depends more on the mechanical aptitude of the reloader and less on the color of the press.
I don't mean to rain on your effort in the comparison you've done, and I appreciate the time and hard work you've done.Thank you for that! But my question is why did you choose to only do 2.0 grains? That leaves "barely" any room for "error", barely any room in the cylinders to make any true error or comparison. Though this is important to a lot of us when it comes to perfection and accuracy when the results matter. Leaving room for error like 20 grains or 50 grains you have room for real results, a lot of us would find -.5 to +.5, my powder measures included and in some cases -.9 to +.9, every once and a while even worse.
I own this die but have never used it due to the fact that it confuses the crap out of me, as does this video. I'm not sure pistol ammo needs the fine tuning--and I've been reloading for years: never had a problem with LEE and Hornady dies, and I think I will stick with whai I know. However, I must say thanks to you for taking the time to share this video.
i make all my powder funnels and powder dies myself on the lathe and mill that way i can bore the internal openings and ream the holes in the powder funnels and it gives you a smooth machined finish, dillon makes the best machines out there but i think they are having trouble keeping up with the demand just a note i use the square deal b for all my pistol ammo it works beautifully for me and the 550 for all my rifle loading but their design for the cylindrical powder like imr for the powder measure truely needs a complete redesign for better consistancy with the larger granules of cylindrical powder just mt opinion . i made an adapter for my rcbs powder measure for when i use the imr powders it is much more consistant for me
Stopping powder spillage is easy. After you seat the bullet, you pick up a new bullet before you move the handle. As you move the handle, the turntable will rotate however, you just rotated enough to grab a hold of the charged case that has just been inserted into the powder checker and is now starting to come out of the powder checker. You take hold of the cartridge case as it just starts to move to the seating station before the bullet is inserted. Your left hand grabs a hold of the empty case as it comes down from the bullet checker. You continue to move the handle and as the the turntable rotates, you grab a hold of the charge case and guide it to a soft stop, then you put the bullet on top of the case, and proceed to do the same to the next case again. The trick is catching a charged case before it comes to a stop to slow it down. It’s the sudden stop that causes powder spills. Thereby preventing gunpowder from jumping out of the case.
Looks to me that your test makes em all about the same and differences in powders or charge weights or even the humidity that day would make any one of em come in first or last. I will stick with my powder measure and if I want to get ultra super super accurate I will weigh each charge (LOL) not gonna happen. My .223 loads for instance use 'size to fit in anything just like factory' and check load every 10 rounds on a scale (unless I forget then every 20 or so) accuracy tests at 100 yards show that my loads are within an eighth of an inch of any other either better or worse. And yes.. I realize that some calibers will be 500 or more yard accuracy loads which I don't even bother with... when you are talking pistol rounds (which I mostly make) seriously? .06?
I have both the RCBS (over 50 years old) and the Redding (also over 50 years old) and they are extremely accurate as checked every 10-20 rounds with my old balance scale(s) I will say tho that I have no loads that use less than say 3.5 grains and most are 4-60 grains. both my measures are micrometer and old LOL I don't even use a baffle... I add powder when they are down to about a quarter. Extruded .. crunch crunch no problem.
Thanks for this. Do you find the model holds up over the life of a jug of powder? What I've found is that the micrometer setting that was right on one day is not right on another day. I assume because of relative humidity changing the density of the powder.
i can't pickup 100 primers at once in my tube, only 20-25 at a time, because the weight of the "already loaded" primers, makes them fall out. I have a new 550 and that slows me down. I thought about heating in squeezing the ends of the part of the tube that slips over the primers to be picked up.
I use the Redding Premium Special Expander Die for Bottleneck Gun Cartridges and never have a problem while reloading 45 ACP and 357 magnum. The expander die comes with a highly polished finish and has a three stage expander.
Thanks so much, this video helped me to change a dead battery!!! My S&G D-lock is an older model dating back 2015 and there a slight difference in how you access the battery. The little black tab is in fact a cap which comes off to expose a gray tab underneath. The gray tab needs to be pulled out ( I found it easiest to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to gently grip the tab) and then one may turn the outer black ring counter-clockwise to expose the battery.
why doesn't Redding change that lock ring as no-one likes the one the one supplied with the seating die. then we won't have to buy Hornady lock rings :)
What happened to me is that when rptating the shell plate in mi 550, powder jumped everywhere when ot clicked. So, just put my finger over the case mouth i just loaded before rotating and putting the bullet in it. Problem solved.
Good video. I have owned Ruger Standard through MKIII pistols for decades and learned through trial and error (much frustration 😂) how to disassemble and reassemble the pieces. A tutorial such as yours would have been VERY helpful all those years ago, and I am sure many "new" owners of these fine pistols will be helped by your instructions. Again, good job.
Great job. My attachment point to the LabRadar unit is NOT like yours though. they revised it with some kind of slide device so it is NOT the quick disconnect like yours. Thanks for the tips though.
Yeah, debunked...big time. Just use either a conventional flipper tray (not all trays are very good for this, so buy quality), or use your homemade method.
I had a lot of anxiety in taking my MkIII apart for the first time. Your video and teaching style is excellent. I really appreciate anyone that teaches the "why" (we are putting the hammer up/ down) we are doing something as it really helps with retention. Anyway, taken apart, cleaned and put back together no sweat thanks to you. PS Do more videos if you find something worthwhile.
