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I step the mast by having it flat and grabbing not far above the tack of the sail and pretty close to wear the mast is flush with the hull, and then leveraging it up and balancing it straight up, it's all about technique. I'm 145 pounds and 15 and can step a full rig mast easily.
I had a laser come down over me running down-wind bloody thing didn't slow down until the mast hit the water at which point I was catapulted into the air and landed in a reservoir during the frost bite season. Which was quite unplesant!
This rigging is over complicated beyond reason. Like many things in life..........someone has intentionally overcomplicated a simple task. But that's not your fault, great job with the instruction. Thanks.
It depends on where in the world you are, these are the names that are used here though if you use kicker and downhaul everyone will know what you mean. You can check the class rules which use vang and Cunningham to define those parts: www.laserinternational.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/ILCA-Class-Rules-2018.pdf
Always wondering why a boom is required for open bottom mainsail since angle of the sail is already control by the traveler all one need to control the shape of the sail is a mainsheet attach directly at the clew?
The gybe at 7:30!! you scoop the aft mainsheet to grab and pull, preventing the notorious hooking of the sheet on the corners!!! Brilliant! I learned something!
A quick question, I have one like this and I do not know what are for the side plastic back hinges, If i foldem up, the boat do not touch the strap, do the boat supposed to rest on this or on the strap? Thank You
The metal piece can pop off with alot of sailing, so that ensures it stays on. If you lose the metal piece the traveler line will saw through the tiller.
I have tape on mine because the metal part was popping off the tiller, but the traveller should still contact the metal, not the tape, or else the tape gets worn out (the metal doesn't get worn out, it's tough enough)
For me you went way too fast, even pausing and starting it was still impossible to see what you were doing. The video itself is really useful, if you could pause on each movement of the rope that would make it much simpler to follow. Thanks for taking the time to do this :-)
At 3min 40sec the video seems to recommend a figure-of-eight as a stopper knot on the mainsheet at the boom end. Figure-of-eight knots can become undone if subjected to constant flailing so the mainsheet could become completely free which would not be a good experience! Much safer would be to use a bowline or a double or triple overhand stopper knot.
the reason you dont use a bowline, is because it gives you a few cm less of pulling in the main sheet (about 5-10 cm). its always a 8-knot behind the block, the chance of it opening is so unlikable nobody really cares about it.
A bowline even if tied small prevents full block to block trim, the reason not to use a double or triple overhand knot is because it creates a larger knot which may cause more friction, since the pulley wheel is up against the knot. A double overhand is fine for the other end of the mainsheet and don't worry, the eight knot at the block end won't come undone while sailing. You're correct that eight knots can come undone for example at the loose end of the sheet from flailing around. The double or triple overhand can be a better option at the loose end in the cockpit also because here you want a bigger knot to prevent the tail from running out of the mainsheet block.
That's a good point, I never put my sail on wet pavement or if you're sailing in a hot climate it might be too hot for the sail, I usually roll the sail over my boat if you can't lay it on the ground. Some regattas you don't have much choice.
Diagoras Gophas Are you talking about the pulling in of the main sheet or the rolling of the boat... I see nothing wrong with that section but if you respond we can discuss.
