This channel is to show helpful repair videos, tool reviews, plus shop tips and tricks Ive learned over the past 25 years as a welder, fabricator, small business owner, and mechanic.
All the videos on this channel are for entertainment purposes only. Never attempt any of the actions in these videos without proper training and using proper safety gear and procedures.
My goal is to make helpful videos and share valuable skills that I've learned. Some may even help people save $$$, make money, or even start their own business. Email - Mechanicalmindchannel@gmail.com
All these brackets are weak points, i had the same problem. He didn't hit anything, its just wear and tear over time. There is a replacement kit that is a lot beefier
I live this and will try on my mower (with three nail hole patches😂) one dumb question: do I need to put a bead sealant around the new tire before inflating it? My gut says yes.
I assume you've worked on JDX350s so can you tell me how to get the shaft out of a spindle that's on these mowers? These spindles are made different than the ones in your video. I tried hitting the top of shaft with a hammer but it wouldn't budge so I stopped before I damaged something. Thanks!
Not sure what year or deck size you have. If you have a 42" deck you have to just replace the entire spindle. The dealerships can't even get rebuild parts for those spindles. The other ones can be rebuilt. Some have snap rings on top, and others just need some persuasive hits with a malet. Sometimes, I need to remeive the grease fitting the be able to hit the shaft hard enough
Good video. I would inflate the tire to seat the beads before inserting the valve stem core. It will air up much quicker and help seat the bead then put in the valve stem core and inflate the tire to recommended pressure.
What's it mean after you've been running the mower and everything has been working fine but once you turn the PTO off and you try to turn it back on when it's hot it won't re-engage until it's had cool down time
I would not be surprise if your clutch is about to fail completely from overheating. Which is most likely being caused by worn or damaged bearings. I would remove the clutch and inspect it.
Dude, you made that look so easy! Really clever use of the vise and normal, everyday tools that even a schmuck like me would have lying around. Thanks for this, REALLY helpful - JD, Montréal
I'm working pin a Deere D110 and it will just not key the belt on, all pulleys spin well, all keepers are in place, no grinding noises, no debris on deck, I am using OEM Deere belt, at this point I am about to give up.
If I can't get these little tires to seat properly for inflation, I will use a ratchet strap around the center of the tire. Then tighten it up and that then pushes the bead of the tire to spread out on both side. Add air very carefully as you loosen the ratchet strap.
I just bought one last week 4 passenger one love , I have the lithium battery what I did notice it has a separate 12 battery also for accessories , it's comfortable and rides like a Cadillac
One spindle failed on my s120 with 100 hours.. I can’t install the blade normally because the spindle spins when tightening.. i have to hold the blade all the way up as far as I can then tighten it.
My John Deere e100 with only 90 hrs started but only ran for a few minutes and would cut off. Was driving me crazy until I watched a video with the same symptoms and he just cut the tip off of the fuel cut off solenoid and that fixed the stalling out. So I did the same and cut the tip off and hasn't stalled since 👍
Got a cub cadet RZTL. Blades keep shutting off. Replaced the pto switch and clutch, battery is good and motor shows to be charging. Zip tied the "seat switch" and the clutch still disengages. Motor never dies. Do you have any idea what im dealing with??
I would carefully inspect the wiring harness for loose or worn connections and/or damaged wires. Check continuity of the harness with a multimeter. You can also use a test light and the clutch and wiggle and shake the harness anywhere you can. That will help find the trouble area. If that's all good next, I'd look at the relays. Some models have all kinda of weird issues that start happening when water gets into the ignition switch. Keep in mind that just because you have the seat safety switch (aka operator presence switch), zip tied doesn't eliminate it from being the problem. Switches like that often work intermittently before they stop working completely.
In 2018 I moved onto a rural property and bought a John Deere lawn tractor. I was constantly sticking that tractor so I bought some ag tires. I got the turf tires off OK & I got the ag tire on 1 bead BUT for the life of me I could not get the other bead onto the rim. I finally took it to a tire store to mount. They charged me $25 which I think was a bit much. Well, after 6 years I have smoothed out my property and have been thinking of putting those turf tires back on. Here we go again... !
Coming from a JD X330 lawn tractor to an Ariens Ikon Onyx 52. I wish I'd had this mower years ago!! Absolute beast of a machine and the cut is a thing of beauty
It's still doing great. I've had no issues out of it. I will need to replace the string cap soon because it's worn from me hitting it against concrete too much to get more sting out
For the $ I'd just use the XR 20v batteries. A 4ah or 5ah will do about as much as a tank of gas on a 2 stroke. I've been testing the 20v 5AH powerstack batteries and I don't think those are worth double the price with barely noticeable advantages over the cheaper XR.
Hello do u need a drive belt in mower for riding mower to move and do u have to bush in brake to shift gears? Can u shift gears without the drive belt in. Also my brake is really hard to push down on
To simply push the mower it does not need a belt. To push it, releases the parking break and put transmission in neutral. Most riding mowers will have a lever to put the transmission in neutral. It's usually located at the rear on the right hand side. No, belt is not needed to shift the gears. To help free up with your brake pedal, try cleaning the linkages and spray them with wd40.
I bought a 50” Timecutter Max (77501) with the Kawasaki 23HP V-twin and no MyRIDE for $3,900. That’s 20 percent less than the 60” and maybe two more passes on my less than an acre lot, the lot is relatively level so a suspension is unnecessary. I love the removable floor pan for easy access to clean the deck with a blower. I think armrests just get in the way on a ZT. Headlights meh, I never mow after dark. The control arms and handles on the Ariens look better but for $900 I’ll buy a bag of zipties and secure that sloppy cabling on the Toro.
All good points. But I hate when a zero turn doesnt have arm rest. I drive zero turns with just one hand most of the time. I don't need lights either but I can see where some people would.
I'm laughing because this reminds me of my own mistakes using water pressure. I have a gas pressure washer with an AR pump rated for 3700 psi. It is powerful enough to use for small-scale hydro-excavation. I've used it in conjunction with a Ridgid shop vac (wet) to dig post holes, run pvc conduit under sidewalks, et cetera. Wouldn't you know I decided to wash my wife's car and peeled paint off the hood and passenger front quarter panel!. I used the unloader valve on the pump to back the pressure off a bit; nonetheless, I really stuffed it that day. I've since learned the art of detailing cars, and clean primarily with chemicals. Rinse water pressures are 700-900 psi with the volume of water in GPM another significant factor in the exterior detailing application. You recovered from your mistake well and brought it to everyone. That's significant and helps us all. I've bent coil fins slightly even with a handheld pressure washer at 200-400 psi. In that case, the angle of attack was an important factor--a lot like what you explained spraying through the louvers on your Goodman condenser. Also, a turbo (circular) pattern was way too aggressive on coil fins, even at the pressures I mentioned above. I have not observed anyone use a (stainless) steel brush to straighten coils, only fin combs and nylon cleaning brushes. It's a great idea, along with lubricant. My thought about lubrication is to use a water-soluble solution like glycerine. Perhaps WD-40 makes a formulation like this. At any rate, thank you! Most people don't like to share mistakes since it invites criticism. In my opinion; however, it's arguably the most valuable information to share.
Look into the icon 60 inch. It has a dial that burns out after you turn the motor off. I have one that only has one hour on it and Aaron can’t figure out why the Dio burn out. It’s right below the clutch button for the lawnmower. see if he can check into that.
I just did mine on my 316hr 915B. The fourth I might add. I bought a belt in 2021 and it cracked real quick. Another in 2022, which gave way today. I was gobsmacked at the price rise. 21 and 22 were $155 AU, the same belt today $265 AU. Deere, certainly is getting Dear. TCU31132. Good video. I initially had it wrong, but worked it out.
I know this video is old, but have you checked for vaccum leaks? Not just cold, sometimes you have to do them hot too! Writing because you,mentioned its hard starting when hot, if the crank a leak when hot, not only does the carb lose out on it fuel pump impulse, but the cylinder mixture too!, not sure how old it is, or what kinda of transfers it has rather the casted into the block, or if they are ported out and sealed with a gasket and screws. If its a bit old the diaphragm could be stiffing up, also if its not scored to bad Check out TinMan you could probably save it with a bit of work, and maybe no new parts.well kinda it might not hurt to re build the fuel pump
When my blades are engaged, I can’t tell if the engine wants to shut off or just the clutch but one of those, wants to shut down but then catches itself and goes back to normal, it keeps doing that randomly throughout the day. Any suggestions why?
