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Do I need to install a driver for the machine to work? I just got the machine and am having a heck of a time trying to make it work. I have downloaded drivers, but I can't seem to open them. I am using a MacBook does this make a difference? how do I figure the port? Waiting for the good news.
As I see in the video, your spindle rotates counterclockwise. This means that the drill will not cut, but will slide and heat up. For a feather bit, this is not so important if the sharpening is symmetrical. But screw drills must enter the material according to their sharpening - clockwise. I hope in the 2 years that have passed since the publication of this video, you have already figured out why your drills are breaking at the default speed and have changed the rotation of your spindle in the opposite direction.
Great videos . I am no carpenter of even DIY'er but have recently started to take an interest and accumulated a some tools and began tinkering about with craft type projects . A lot has been sort of instinctive but naive and not the best way of doing things . Videis like yours really help join the dots .
Thanks, good tutorial, not tried Easel before. I measured the RPM of my stock 3018 with a tachometer and it only goes to 7L RPM, a few others have done this also so i think that's probably the real max speed for the stock motor.
Lovely video. Having made some signs and varnished them (3 or 4 coats) I have been dimayed to see rhem spoil a year or so down the line (fungus/mold) I now coat with wood preserver (2 coats) then varnish as usual. Front door sign as new 3 years down the road (wet UK weather).😊
As a guide, the thickness of the router bit shaft relates to how much material you can remove without overburdening the bit and motor. 1/4” or 6mm shank removes up to 1/4” or 6mm of material at a pass. At my shop we have guys using these smaller trim-routers cutting through 1/2” plywood. 🤦 So you can do it, but the router is screaming “put me out of my misery “ the entire time. 😂 The router motor won’t last as long, bearings will need replacing and worst of all it’ll be a struggle and not enjoyable. Use a Jigsaw or scroll saw for going through the material while being able to cut curves. Hardwood is different to cut for any blade, use a sharp blade and let the blade do the cutting, don’t force it. Hope this helps.
I've been looking at quite a few of this type of routing video over the last months and I think that's the first I've seen with a straight bit rather than some kind of pointed/angled bit, so that it gives vertical sides and a flat base to the cut. Looks good to me - I'll try it when I eventually get around to digging the router out & finding a suitable chunk of wood.
hi Chris , Darryl here , I just got my 3020 pro max cnc , loading software is hell. how did you switch to easel from candle or I'm missing some thing . plz help .
I think that’s as opposed to a cnc produced one. I doubt anyone actually does it by hand ... they’d at least use a chisel (router - just another kind of tool) 😂. In my (albeit limited) experience, using a router takes just as much practise to get a good finish and crisp edges. The outcome was great anyway, as I’m sure you agree. All the best, Gerry
I use a different technique by printing the image in reverse onto a sheet of paper, lay it onto my timber face down & rub the back with thinners, it transfers the ink onto your workpiece.
Very nice technique and sign! Thanks for posting. I would love to make something like that, but I would find it very difficult to follow the lines using this technique. Apart from anything else I am not able to see the bit clearly enough on either of my routers - a palm router and a plunge router - to be able to follow it around the template. Even then my lines would be all over the place. I suppose the only option would be to make or buy a plastic or plywood template?
@@dalegrover7633 Hi Dale. your previous comment is an alternative way to get an image onto wood. My problem is not that; it is finding a simple way to keep the router within the line and not relying on being able to draw a straight line with a bit while not being able to see the bit.
@@PapaJoeWalsh I cut a 1" slot into my plastic shield & also use a vacuum on the dust port, very clean & a lot easier to see my bit. To help keep control I rest my forearms on the bench, lean in towards my workpiece & hold onto the router very gently, the tighter the grip the harder it is to follow my pattern.
@@dalegrover7633 Hi Dale. Many thanks for your tips. I will definitely try this approach soon. I really don't want to start buying expensive templates, or making them which sounds a bit tricky in any case. Regards, Joe
