As i did, buy the ready insulated exaust hose. Made spiral wire, aluminum, pink insulation with kinda garbage bag exterior. Extendable, come in box of approximately 2 feet, once open out of box extend to 8 feet. You get ZERO, nada, none, no heat inside. Probably cost you same or less then the work here... called: Duct Sleeve, you don't need the duck pipe, yiur a/c will bloot it when hot air flows out Canada: 28$ for 6 inch x 10 feet. Easy...
It is easier to purchase a box of 6" insulated ducting. It is much thicker and easier to work with. Use it to substitute the exhaust pipe that came with the A/C. Also, you can run it for longer than the original exhaust pipe.
You're pulling hot air from outside into your garage as well, since you're decompressing it by taking air from that room so it can be used as exhaust for the compressor (which is pushed outside). You can probably optimize even further by ensuring the air pressure is balanced and ducting that intake to the outside as well. That unit may actually be built for that (and this is apparently not uncommon with some portable units).
Best you tube video out there, I changed out my Honeywell thermostat for the ecobee premium and I noticed right away my home was not getting as cool. Scratching my head I changed the display from always on to on for 10 seconds. I don't know why its default is always on but it made the thermostat feel really warm, I have a feeling it was affecting my actual temp and humidity level and that change did help but this video made a huge difference. A big thank you for sharing!
Flex duct. Buy flex duct the size of your vent and intake hose, or go to a HVAC company where they might sell you a short length as flex duct is generally sold in 25' lengths. You could use R4.2 or R8 flex duct. To use, cut two pieces to the lengths needed to cover your intake and vent hoses, pull out and discard the inside liner. Now pull the insulation and outside liner over the vent, and intake hoses. You can secure the ends with duct tape, panduits, or hose clamps. This is way easier than what you did here, and there are no seams in flex duct.
I read somewhere certain mosquitoes are repelled by UV-light? (Perhaps night-active mosquitoes think it is daytime and go to a dark corner to hide, instead of the trap) I did see a trap that said turn on UV for other insects, turn off UV for mosquitoes. Has anybody else read about this?
@@reallyMello Found it.... quoting "night-biting mosquitoes are strongly photophobic to short-wavelength light" I think that says some night mosquitoes don't like UV. short-wave == UV Full quote... "The University of California, Irvine School of Medicine-led team studied mosquito species that bite in the daytime (Aedes aegypti, aka the Yellow Fever mosquito) and those that bite at night (Anopheles coluzzi, a member of the Anopheles gambiae family, the major vector for malaria). They found distinct responses to ultraviolet light and other colors of light between the two species. Researchers also found light preference is dependent on the mosquito's sex and species, the time of day and the color of the light. "Conventional wisdom has been that insects are non-specifically attracted to ultraviolet light, hence the widespread use of ultraviolet light "bug zappers" for insect control. We find that day-biting mosquitoes are attracted to a wide range of light spectra during the daytime, whereas night-biting mosquitoes are strongly photophobic to short-wavelength light during the daytime," said principal investigator Todd C. Holmes, PhD, a professor in the Department of Physiology and Biophysics at the UCI School of Medicine."
Single hose units are so inefficient it should be illegal to sell them. They just pull more ambient ( ie warm) air into the room from the vacuum created by pushing the exhaust out. That said, even on a dual hose unit the insulation would be a huge improvement so well done.
Interesting observation, but the heat coming thru the skin of the pipe is the least of your worries with a SINGLE HOSE unit. One of the two hoses in a TWO hose unit takes warm outside air and cools the condenser which is much hotter, and blows the hotter air back outside. The indoor intake just takes the room air and keeps cooling it more and more and putting it back into the room. A single hose unit takes the air to cool the condenser FROM THE ROOM, (air your just paid to cool) and pushes it outside. That creates a vacuum in the room, and the replacement air has to come from outside, usually past the weatherstrip in the window because it is half open. Very energy inefficient! These single hose units should be outlawed! It costs almost nothing more to add a hose for the intake of the condenser cooler, and indeed, they only cost about 10% more.
011075 (3HP) vs 011065 (1.5HP) Is it more efficient to run 3HP at 20gpm or the 1.5HP unit at 20gpm ? Will 1.5HP be more efficient across the board, but louder, and lower peak flow?
Sweet Indian Clubs!!!… and, excellent job on an experiment proven worthwhile! 👍 I have pondered on this issue myself re: portable a/c’s and this seems like a pretty darn decent solution!
I've installed a 4 inch "dryer vent" for a number of people to use as vents for portable a/c's. I just run them straight through stucco/siding, right at the height the hose exits the a/c unit. Then I install the a/c unit right up against the vent so that there is almost NO hose at all to emit heat. Dryer vents are louvered so no bugs/critters get in while not in use. A 4 inch cap is put in place on the inside of the room during the months the a/c is stored (winter). Less hose = less heat loss.
Technology Connections has a really good video about this. I rigged up an intake and output system with my single hose unit. I had a large 12" aluminum duct that covered the intake really well. I squashed the other side a bit And made a window adapter that held both the intake and output. That dramatically increased efficiency once I was no longer sucking outside air into my conditioned space, then exhausting it outside. I further improved things by covering both hoses with some cheap blankets. Kinda quieted things down, too. Anymore I just don't feel the single hose units are worth the trouble. I have my original unit and a second one just sitting around, even in these record setting summer days.
I don't know that you're getting an accurate reading off of that reflective surface. If you touch it with your hand does it feel warmer than the ambient temperature? Either way, I'm still disappointed with the efficiency losses compared to a window unit.
I put that exact same stuff in my window to reflect the sunlight back out. Didn't even think about using it to insulate the exhaust itself.. Here's hoping it works!
My issue is length, the only exit I have is a considerable distance away from where I can put the A/C unit. Everywhere I read they claim to not lengthen the exhaust hose but I was thinking that if I use the standard hose and then go bigger on the extension it'll reduce back pressure and the force required to push the air thru the extended hose. What'ca think?
Typically the entire cutting session unless I used it for the blower first. It does seem like the new one is more efficient, but even before I didn't really have issues with running out.
Ya the hoses are a bit pricey relative the DiY approach but have a cleaner look if it’s going somewhere that may matter more I suppose. The efficiency gain of an insulated hose or the foil roll will pay itself back eventually.
Run it straight outside. No hose. Raise the unit so it can exhaust straight out with out the hose. I'm doing that in my trailer works good. One problem is these units create a negative pressure. To me they should create a positive pressure
