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mine just blows the fuse as soon as i turn it on , i think there's some kind of short going on, i unplugged all the connectors and i tested plugging them once at a time and the short is happening when i plug in the 5 pin connector, im not sure where to go on after that, Please help...
Signal tracer time buddy. My guitar input board wite connection was kjust barely disconnected on the actual board i barely touched the connection and boom instantly the amp fixed.
Hey bud, did you ever figure this one out? Only curious because I have the exact same guitar amp and same exact problem. However, my amplifiers against the rear heat sink are blown.
Please do yourself a favor. Chuck the "lead Free" solder. It doesn't flow well, it doesn't stick well, and causes a lot of problems down the road. Use 60/40 solder. If you want, use a face mask N-95.
Hey Mr. Tinman Technologist, can you tell whether the Guitar Input on the Amp is a stereo jack socket or not? I. e. can you go in with stereo effects or not?
Good video! I tamed the overly sensitive volume pot on my hotrod Deville by exchanging the 12AX7 preamp tube in V1 for a 12AT7 ..Fender mfg really should address this issue.
Your information is very good,❤ I work with machines that use several encoders, and I loved your teaching, 🇧🇷😉👍congratulations on the video! 👏👏👏👏👏👏 "@arduinomaquinas" thanks you ! ( subscribed).
you don't need to change any tubes, you just need to put a better pot for volume..... as John Boley said, the audio taper pot. It is a 5.00 part and it's easy to change out....done
Good job, but you also could've tried a 500k variable resistor for less volume, also according to Psionic amp, there are places on the board that over heat also some of Fender amps have issues and can be modify and you should asked other techs what they might actually be? I have one here (on lone from a good freind) and one thing I learned is this Deluxe Mod 3 uses a Celestion 80 and is total wrong for this amp. A 30watt to 50watts would sound a lot better then what it maybe using now. I borrowed his amp to try my 2 JBL custom cabinets I built. My little junior uses a 12"inch JBL and a 2-way JBL crossover with a Sansui tweeter closed system no ports. It's like day and night. My cabinet is beautiful and it does make the Fender Rock with my D123e. I also have (from the same peron) a Fender Viborluxe from the 1970s with new caps and resistors and it's original D123F JBL 15". It last belong to a steel guitarist that passed away and his nephew inherited his musical collection like my favorite Uncle died and he bonded with and asked to help make a sound documentation of my 50 watt Bugera T-50 over the 40 watt Fender and show off my Homemade custom Joe Junior over little Junior? It will be filmed.
Searching for months I need your help I can't find a small micro controller that charge and discharge a battery with 8 second time limit connected to an led and it sense's low pressure to close the circuit to discharge and it's 3mm in length and only has a resistor connected to it (s0890 Ap) that's what I can read
What happens if you go beyond the 0.9 and 2.1? like for example you input a full 5v cycle instead of max 2.1ms? Smoke? or Will the servo just do nothing? I ask cause I want to try and mechanically control a cnc spindle using a sg90 and a 3d print to attach to a potentiometer that controls the spindle RPM on a GRBL v1.1 with a 0ms to full cycle range.
I believe 0.9-2.1 specifies the angle range. So the resolution of the angle is max angle/ 1.2. When it is more than 2.1 the duty cycle is over the specified angle so it’s going to maximum. But since the voltage and current is the same, I don’t think anything is going to burn.
That’s an awful lot of complaining over a $60 kit that actually works. The complaints over the bent case are legit, but come on. How complex did you expect this to be?
They could have done much better with the TO-220 regulators @9:09. They could have designed it so the regulators mount vertically on the PCB and by moving the board toward the rear of the chassis, mounted to the case with insulators (they require that anyway on the heatsink. If you have to mount a TO-220 like that I recommend soldering the wire parallel with the lead, don't wrap it around the lead, and then heat shrink each lead of the device and wire connection completely to prevent accidental shorting.
Congratulations! Very clarifying video! I am looking for a circuit to be connected to a radio control instead of a servo to enable and disable the power of a camera (900mv x 11v). Do you know any product, or would you indicate a diagram for assembling a circuit?
I have one on my desk and it looks identical to yours. Even has the same 7-4634. Very cool units but I have never been inside mine. Seeing those capacitors worries me that they might go out at some point. That would not be good
I have a very similar one. Mine is Model No. 7-4630C. However, I am trying to use it as a radio for DRIVE-IN theaters. Any advice on how to repair the Batttery function for it?
Just change the first pre amp tube (sorry can’t remember what the new tube is called) and that’s it. Rolls off 20% of the volume. Some people also use a volume pedal in the effects loop. This is way to much crap to do when u can achieve what you want with a single tube swap. EDIT: tube is 12AT7. Just replace the first pre amp tube
That's the EXACT same problem mine has. Want to come fix it? Lol I've had that clock since 1983 or 84. The hour and minute buttons are starting to stick now too. If I knew how to solder, I'd totally take it apart and work on it. I'm afraid I'd break it beyond repair. Lol But it's so cool to that see others still have the same clock after all these years. I've seen this model in a couple of tv shows and movies too. It's a great clock! 😁
I had never used leaded solder. Learned with 97/3 tin lead. It didnt seem to bad. Then i ran out and had some good 60/40 sitting in a drawer so i got it out and tried tinning some wire and it blew my mind. Its so easy to work with and it wets and reflows so easy. I think ill be using lead from now on
I agree, it is a loud amp. Had mine for 15 years now. What puzzles me is why you don't have a dB meter to show the viewers the actual sound pressure numbers. I would guess at 1 meter from the center of the speaker, the sound pressure would read, 120 to 130 dBs.
What you hear is the heat protection switching the chip on and off. Put a good heat sink on the chip and bingo it wil work. This is a common Line6 overheating problem of the modchip and on the voltage stabilizers. Many amps are thrown away because they can fix it. Such a waste of good material.