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Hi my name is Dominic, As a child I liked to make different things, now I make parts for all kinds of things from metal, as my day job. Here I found a shaper, I'm going to restore it. And put it into use to make things again. My dream is to add even more machines. To make even more stuff.
@@petersilva4242 hey thanks for your response. I would like to give you a yes or no to your question. but there are some problems 1 is my drawings still contain some errors. 2 is something about patents. which I don't know much about (I'll check it out) 3 Suppose I can and may spread this without lawsuits. how am I going to do that? I have put in 35-40 hours of R&D.
If anyone knows what is written on the army box @ 8:57 please let us know. you can see the bearing explode @ 36:30 if you zoom in on the center of the polisher disc
Dominic, you're making progress. I enjoy watching other "home workshop" Machinists whose workshops are not worth $100,000+ (USD), like some of the other "bigger" RU-vid channels. I get to see and hear the thought processes the presenter is sharing, especially when their solution to a problem causes them to have to think "out of the box"!
hey bob, thanks. You will never see such expensive machines with me. I'm sure I'm not that lucky. and indeed coming up with solutions is the most fun thing to do.
Your technique is improving! But, either it is due to camera angle or lighting I think you are still scraping the non blue areas. You will get it done it will just take a little longer. Keep at it, the results will be worth the effort. KOKO!
That is the camera angle and the light from outside that is very reflective. I am not yet completely convinced that I have a better technique. I do notice a difference in hardness between the material
If you put a "crown" on the belt mating surface of the pulleys, it will probably track better. Assuming the "pulleys" are aligned. I agree with bovines00 that a two belt system would get you the speed reduction you are looking for. I am am looking forward to the finished product. I like home made fixtures like the one you are making. KOKO!
I think you are almost there. If I had some experience I might be able to give you some constructive comments. But alas, I have a lot les experience than you. The only observation I have to make is maybe the strokes you are using are too long (see therealspixycat) and try not to scrape the low areas. TTFN I think in the end the effort and time spent will be worth it. KOKO!
was still practicing here, I think I was at it for 8 hours. the material I am scraping now is much tougher (videos are still to come. too much to do, too little time.) thanks for all the messages, gives me energy again👍🏻👍🏻
In the fullness of time, you'll get your shaper back online better than new. Just a suggestion look online for 4" or 6" diamond lapping disks. They aren't that bad on price and could easily be mounted on your polishing wheel. I used a 6" aluminum put about 4 neodymium magnets embedded in the aluminum an put a mandrel thru the center and mounted in in my mini lathe. the magnets held the disk in place rather nicely. The speed control of the lathe makes using it a breeze. Recently i bought a package of 4" lapping disks (600 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit) for about $30 USD. Good Luck! KOKO!
I like your impromptu grinder it seems to work very well. I would suggest a hole to lubricate the the clapper pivot. I am still experimenting with various cutters. So far the best shear tool I have made is a 5/16" HSS lathe tool sharpened with a 120 grit belt sander and a 600 grit diamond lapping disk to polish. There is no relief and neutral rake on the cutting edge. It gives me the smoothest edge of any tool I have tried so far. The biggest problem I have found with it is setting it accurately vertical in the holder. I mount in the lantern (no Armstrong Tool Holder). I found your channel about 2 months ago and since then I have watched almost all your videos, about 4 more to go. Thanks for the videos. KOKO!
tried it with slideway oil. when I convert it, but it starts to stick after standing still for a while. so I don't know what I should use then. It is very annoying when the HSS tool lands in the middle of the workpiece. and what you describe in terms of tool sounds interesting👍🏻
I have a problem with my SB 7" shaper table, just like the one you describe. I will try to follow your example and see if it will fix my little shaper. On my table there is a vertical rod at the bottom of the shaper that is about 7" long and protrudes through the bottom of the shaper. It moves left and right with the shaper an is supposed to keep the shaper from nodding down as the ram extends out over the table. But I am not sure it will correct a nod that is the result of a loose "gibb". thanks for the video! KOKO!
@@jamesreed6121 you could try with a dti . See what happens when you work on a piece of metal. once you have unscrewed that threaded part. If the table still moves then you may have some play there too. but as in my video, that connection is important. it should slide but still keep the table parallel
that is a very interesting tool you have made for the shaper. From what I see the surface finish isn't too bad. Can't wait to see the restore all dun! KOKO!
Are you sure that you use the right geometry of the cutting blade? Normally you scrape cast iron and you're scraping steel i guess. My impression is that you scrape very narrow area. Not sure but that is my impression
@@petrichor649 you mean hand scraping? that is to make a flat guideway. it's not exactly as smooth as you may have seen. but if you look at the high points (blue) those are the contact points. the lower valleys are where the oil can lie. allowing better lubrication. hope this answers your question😉
@@petrichor649 Hand scraping itself is not difficult. understanding what you see with blueing is. and it must also be of equal height over both guideways. That's why I'm practicing on this part first and will start on my shaper later this year
@@DoMetalStuff My new shaper is an Australian made Douglas 10.5" shaper. I am currently making a new die block, sleeve and bolt to stop rattling. Then I will start the measurements, which will take me to scraping. I am a new'ish machinist, so my progress is slow as.
@@CodeMunky-f5g That's nice, another shaper that will last for years to come. Hand scraping is also new to me and I do this slowly. You have to learn to walk before you can run. (was often said to me) when I started with a CNC lathe. Tip: If you are going to measure, make sure you have several DTIs so that you can see whether the values are correct. If you see a difference, one of the DTIs is no longer good😉
Dominic, I agree with jambusspeakermouse1325 and MarkATrombley about scraping the narrow side(s) so that you have the full "thickness" of the bars to minimize their bending when they are not fully supported. Also, jambusspeakermouse1325's recommendation about using wooden handles is important too. Even the large camelback straight edges of 3-4-feet (0.91-1.22-m) length have wooden, Bakelite, or plastic handles to prevent body heat from causing them to bend/warp.
Narrower. I'm doing the exact thing myself. If you use the wider surface it will just warp and won't be as stable. By the way, cold rolled isn't the best for this as it has more internal stresses. Hot rolled cools down slowly which allows it to normalise. Obviously the best material would be cast iron but i don't have the money for that. I would recommend making some wooden handles if you want them very accurate. That will help handling but will also stop your body heat distorting them. Doesn't sound like it would be an issue but i definitely noticed it with mine after hours of scraping. Something else i noticed was that room temperature impacted them as well and on very hot days they would have different marking patterns. You may want to start off with lapping compound as scraping steel is hard work. Best of luck!
@@jambusspeakermouse1325 hey thanks for your information. this material is s355 or s255. I thought that scraping by hand would not cause much stress because this operation does not release much heat. it's true what you say about hot rolled. but I could get this. I can find out how to release tension. and wooden handles is definitely a good idea. The biggest problem is my single stone wall in my shed and roof without insulation.
@@DoMetalStuff I would do the same thing, but then why not scrape the wider side too? It would give you the opportunity to also blue the way with it, and if you know it is straight in the longitudinal direction, it can help you dtermine wether you are doing a good job in the cross direction. As to the wooden handles: It's not to difficult, so just make them. I once made a small straight edge too, also made a wooden handle, I think from some oak, but if I snug up the screws which hold the handle, the straight edge warps, even so it only has two patches of contact maybe 20mm long. Well, the straight edge is similar to your size, it is cast iron 25mm by 60mm and has a 45° angle on one edge. It's not perfect, but it's better then no straight edge. If temperature really is a problem, we also would need to always keep the machines at 20° or else they will warp. I dont think we need to go for that sort of precision (at least I know I can't). I only bought my long straight edge a year ago or so, can't say how flat it really is, my surface plate is only 400/400mm, but I get consistent results if I turn it 180°, so I think it's not too bad. Still, I should test it on the diagonal of the surface plate, even if that's only about 580mm, if it's concave or convex I should find out.
@@etbuilds6006 wooden or plastic handles are coming. I first have to see if I can normalize this material. If that works, I will continue with it. and then I'm just going to do the narrow part. (15mm). When I do the wide part, the narrow part is immediately deformed.
@@etbuilds6006 hey, on the video it does seem to go fast, but it's not that bad. and that disc still needs to be straightened out a bit, it wobbles a little bit.
I’m not really qualified to answer but I would scrape the the narrow sides and would not scrape the larger flats unless I need that side flat. Sometimes we can make improvements without doing things the very best way.
Dominic, this looks like an interesting project! If the large disc ends up turning too fast, you may need to bolt/screw a smaller disc onto its side and use a second belt to drive a 2nd large disc which could hold your yet-to-be-received lapping discs. That would allow you to get a much slower RPM for lapping/grinding your scraping inserts. The "slow" grinders that I've seen for things like sharpening wood chisels turn much slower than your existing large disc. If your belt slips too much on the motor's shaft, you'll probably need to increase the OD of the "pulley" that you are using right now. Also, if you are willing to show your viewers what tools, tooling, materials, etc., that you have, one or more of us may be able to recommend a way to use what you've already got to make a tool, do something easier, etc.
I think making a new lantern post to hold the tool holder is the easiest and most practical. I have done that on my SB 7" and it works pretty good. I look forward to seeing what solution you choose! KOKO! (Keep On, Keepin On)
@@DoMetalStuff I like your channels focus on measuring the accuracy of your shaper and its restoration. I will be making similar measurements on my shaper. 😋 Great channel.
@@CodeMunky-f5g thanks man. it does take time. but I hope the result is great at the end. and learn from my mistakes then you know how not to make them🤣
At about 26:00 you forgot to stone the workpiece before rubbing the straightedge on it. But it didn't seem to matter because after scraping from both directions you appear to have gotten a much better pattern of blue high spots. Is your stone ground to be truly flat, i.e., a "precision ground flat stone" according to some other RU-vid channels that sometimes show scraping? I've never tried my hand at scraping, but did buy a hand scraper (much shorter than yours is) to try scraping one day. I *think* Stephan used(?) to sell them, but I'm not sure. Since you work in a Machine Shop, perhaps you could use a surface grinder to grind both sides of your stone during your lunch break? Thumbs up!
hey bob, i know i'm a bit absent-minded sometimes. so I went back to look at minute 22:00 and you can see that I am using my whetstone. and indeed I have to grind it flat again. but then you actually need a set of 2. I only have 1. maybe not quite the best. but for scraping practice. I can live with it. But thanks anyway, I'll put it on my to-order list right away
If you can find 3 pieces of iron to make some flats with i recommend doing that first. 3 plate method except use maybe 700mm x 50mm if you have them. Then you compare a to b, b to c, c to a etc as you follow the method. Then you have a surface to use that you can trust. From there i would use that surface you made to check the machine base where the ram sits. Be careful and do this. Color your 3 plate surface. Put down on base way. If there is blue in the middle it is probably convex. Next clean surface just tested and do again. This time applying down pressure on the edge of one side. There shouldnt be blue on the other side. Do the same with the back. Make sure to understand the initial as is condition of the surface. Convex is harder to read than concave. Then pick a surface area to leave alone and slowly work your way. The ram has an adjustment to feed the tool down. You can use an indicator in that and feed down the vertical walls to check perpendicular at that pont. Sure not correct but good enough. I would tread lightly on the scraping. It shouldnt be out too much as hobby machines shouldnt be completely worn out. The riskyou face with a smaller than surface flat is you cannot tell the correct profile. Practice with 3 plates first. They will self check flatness to each other.
hey first thanks for this information. I could do that. but that will take a long time. and what do you use as an abrasive? I actually wanted to grind my ram flat this weekend. and use that as a reference. (that has some delay). That should be possible or am I looking at it wrong
@@DoMetalStuff steel is okay but hard to scrape. You are just wanting to make some straight edges to use. They dont have to be very long. Aluminum could be fastened to the steel then scrape in the aluminum but they tend to change with temperature and wear.
@@AlmostMachining we have enough of that lying around. but would it be better if a perpendicular back was welded on? or angle iron? the same stuff I made my table for the shaper from. or reduce it from 140x140 to 40x40 mm and 600 long
I think you are doing very nicely! In the beginning I thought your cuts were not deep enough, I did not see any nice chips, but in the close-up around min 38, you are doing great. The pattern also looks realy nice. As for the gauges: I would not worry to much, these are deep spots, they will never contact anything. Congratulation on your subscribers rise. I got a sudden rise in views from my last video, but no subscribers. Maybe another day!?! cheers Erich!
@@etbuilds6006 hey E.T. It takes some getting used to how to hold your scraper steel. and how hard should I press. I did realize that my scraper is a bit too long. and as far as subscribers are concerned, they will come automatically if you manage to touch their interest👍🏻just keep uploading
@@DoMetalStuff I really did not want to sound whining. I'm ok with 200+ views., Your scraper looks to be aprox. the length of mine, what did help me a lot was taking away about half of the shaft's strength to make it mor elastic. If I apply force, it bends a little bit.
@@therealspixycat what you saw in this video is cast iron. I don't remember the exact material number anymore. it was a round disk from which I also made the 2 small camel backs. I haven't scraped plain steel yet. I think it is a bit tougher and more sticky.
From ergonomic point of view, your table seems to be too low. You obviously have to lean into your workpiece and you have a precision task at hand. Ergonomics translate into precision.
@@Rustinox hey michel, yes really. I still can't believe it either. I am very happy with it. so everyone who reads this is welcome. and thank you again Michel
Nice Maker's Mark branding iron! I know I'm watching this video 8 months after you posted it, but I'll make a recommendation that you may still see. To keep moisture in the wood from corroding your camel-backs and test indicator/height gauge, I recommend that you obtain some pieces of Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor (VHI) paper to line your boxes. The paper is coated with a chemical that evaporates(?) and fills the box(es) with the VCI vapor, preventing corrosion. There are different types of VCI paper, but I've seen it work extremely well before. Since the VCI paper basically emits an anti-corrosion vapor, the lids need to be kept closed so that the vapor doesn't blow away. Also, if you do get some VCI paper, comply with the warnings most likely printed on the non-VCI-chemical-coated side that warns to ensure that you wash your hands if you touch it, especially before eating (and probably before wiping your eyes, etc., with contaminated hands. Soap & water will remove it from your hands. Perhaps the Machine Shop where you work uses VCI paper to protect materials and/or products/jobs from corrosion and they'll allow you to get enough to line your boxes?
@@bobvines00 hey bob this is a comment I hadn't thought about. thanks for this. 👍🏻and no, we don't use that paper. we oil everything. I can spray my wooden boxes with clear varnish. then moisture no longer comes out of the wood. and usually those boxes are in the house. there it is a bit better in terms of moisture.
