I'm a guy who likes to do things himself. I like getting my hands dirty and fixing things around the house. I'll show you how to do home repairs, woodworking, shop projects, and auto repairs. Click that subscribe button and notification bell, you never know what I'll be fixing next.
Are you going to have a video showing how to prepare the wall afterwards? This was a great video, I want to take mine down but don’t know what to do with the wall to prepare it to paint afterwards.
Shiny side out!!!!! It's there for a REASON!!! IT ACTS AS A RADIANT BARRIER TO KEEP THE HEAT OUT DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS!!!!! You gotta know these things before posting!!!!!!!!
In the summer the foil will deflect radiant heat from entering your air conditioned home. In the winter it will reflect the house heat back into your home...so basically it's ok for the winter the way you have it but you are getting no benefits for the summer months to deflect radiant heat .
U did it all wrong! You need to ensure your R value and SEER ratings are paramount to your geographic location!!! There are many ways to do it based on that. It's all about the R value!!!!!!
I'm really stumped on this one. I have a Frigidaire CFEF312GSC that wont pre heat evenly. During preheat it will alternate between the bake and broil element when but the bake element turns on it is only for a few seconds before it goes back to bake. This effectively makes it heat like only the bake was working. When I use the control to set it to broil the broil works and heats fine. Control board and oven temperature sensor have both been replaced. Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.
Wow, much respect. Someone who actually logically analyzes a problem, step by step, to arrive at a solution. If only more people did that nowadays. Nice delivery / tone, too: made watching the video enjoyable. One important aspect to oven repair (cooktop, fridge, etc.) is that parts aren't always readily available. Our GE Profile cooktop and oven were installed in 1995, so this being 2024, they're 29 years old, and basically nothing is available anymore. Good job.
Great video. I am not quite as fortunate. I have the LG LRE30453ST, and the oven will not go above 310F. The elements are good, but the baking element gets 230V for about three seconds ever 5 min, and the turns off. No error codes, and the display shows a fairly accurate temp. I think this is going to be the control board.
Check the ohms on your elements. Could be cracked and interrupting the current when it heats up and expands. Try tugging on it (when cold) with the meter hooked up and see if the reading changes.
@@HouseDoctorRay Both elements are fairly new, and I never saw a resistance change when I wiggled and pulled them. I also connected the bottom element straight to 240V, and it started heating nicely. The relays are clicking when it turns the bake element on & off. To be more specific: I was baking an the food remained uncooked, after the display showed 330 degrees for 45 min. I had set it to 350. After removing the cover, checking the bake & broil elements, this is what I found: The bake element turns on for about 7-8 seconds and turns off. The broil element turns on whenever the bake element is off, and after about 2-3 mins, it does this again. The temperature is probably correct, since the temp sensor is near the top beside the broil element.
I previously had an LG with a similar problem. I replaced the thermistor and it fixed the problem. Sounds like it's trying to get to heat but never does. Pro tip: find the LG part online then find a Frigidaire or GE thermistor that looks the same. The LG parts are way overpriced. You may need to change the connector on the end but the probes and the voltage they put out are the same.
Thanks! Lots to learn. I might try to make a neon sign like you did. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ipQSVX3Vym0.htmlsi=P-gkrbH4o8MyiTO-
Best talk on this topic. The rest seemed interested in convincing the viewer how easy this is. Nothing is ever easy unless it is some well documented new build. Thanks!
I'm currently in the "how can I make my dust collection work better" phase. Going to implement all of these Ideas. Thanks for the inspiration. EDIT: I bought the dustopper about 3 weeks ago and can attest that pulling it and the shop-vac around the garage is difficult... at best. And I'm adding a Hepa filter and hepa bags to the scum sock idea, as well as your exhaust filter, in an attempt to get as many particles out of the air as possible.
I do think this is a neat idea and I wouldn't rule out building one in the future. However, I have been using a commercially made straight edge (comes in two 52 inch sections that has a bar connecting them -- purchased at a big box store ~ 10 years ago) that has worked well for my purposes. Yes, I have to clamp it (but that hasn't bothered me), and yes, I have to be mindful to keep the circular saw pushed against the straight-edge, but it also doesn't take away from my full depth of cut of the circular saw if I need it -- a drawback with using a 3/4" plywood here.
Awesome. I thought I was gonna have to spend $85 for a base on my shark rotator. I couldn't figure out why it kept clogging all of a sudden when I hardly ever had a suction problem before and then I noticed the lower hose was broke while I was cleaning hair and fuzz from the brush and unclogging it again. I bet once I fix that hose it'll stop clogging so much. DIY youtube videos have saved me so much time and money over the years.
If I made this, I'd have sawn through the metal guide, plunged the drill through the workbench, cut through the plastic board and the workbench, taken my finger off, covered both hands in tape, ending on the garage catching fire.
HUGE improvement. I think you just saved me a hundred bucks. I'm def. thinking about it. Anyway - brilliant tips - the holes, the non-slip tape, and the "track" and methods. Ah - I have my answer. So what would you do? I am very tight on space and dust is a major issue. I actually need to buy a track saw for dust control anyway - and the track for the 7.25 15 Amp WEN is only 70 bucks - and I decided I'm going to turn 2x50 into 65 + whatever's left (I won't use it.) I love your holes for continuing a cut straight as hell. Track saw you just line up the edge. So - all in all - I'm in for the power-dog Wen. THANKS!!
Yes you have given me some good ideas, I would like to say that 99% of the time I clean my shop vac outside, and with an air hose I blow out my filter and the wind takes it all away. I also use a prefilter they sell for collecting drywall cement dust for regular use they last along time if not abused, I have a wet vac especially for wet and it had one of those wet vac filters. If I had a shop I'd definitely try your combo dust collecting idea and have maybe one dedicated vas per saw or have it plumbed for all saws. I'll definitely be shopping for some pool socks though , thanks👍
When the insides of the drain flange are rusted out and not even your trusty pliers will help, there is only one tool that'll make the removal of the old flange possible/easy; a reverse thread tub drain extractor that fully grips the interior diameter of the flange.
I especially love your cart. It takes up no extra space per se, gets the bucket at a convenient height for emptying, and the holes for accessories is a very nice touch!
