Been there, done that! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BD6LDkETpm0.html

They are shameless!! I wonder if any of those 8 parallel banks were filled with sand? The most you could get with 8 parallel would be 3500mAh * 8 = 28Ah, but I'd be willing to bet most of those cells are low capacity <2000mAh

Here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1t2DyUVZkPP54bvKki5sg8ERh2cuY-IDq/view?usp=drive_link The Behringer DX1000 is almost identical in internals.

@@MichaelBrooksDr Thanks, I had all but given up on finding any info, I didn't know there was a DX1000

this is correct - undersize Chinese math - this battery 50 000 /12 = 4 Ah - simple :)

The BMS will protect the batteries from overcharge. The load you are feeding will probably get quite upset with the noise that comes off the really badly made switched mode power supply plug that comes with the battery pack. Should the load pull more current than the switched mode power supply can supply, current will be drawn from the battery too, until the battery drops below the BMS's low voltage level, at which point it will shut off. Then your load will be receiving whatever the switched mode power supply can provide.

Just in case anyone else comes this way via Google or whatever.... Well, as before I have received help from other quarters than Behringer's support channel (who have not even replied) and now have an answer to this: The "track start" outputs are actually open collector outputs. If you want to interface them to a 5V DC logic device such as an Arduino or other 5V Microcontroller - it's very easy but you need to use the right component value for a pull-up resistor. I was using a 1.1K resistor which was too high a value. Here's the step by step for a working solution: 1) Connect a 330ohm resistor between the tip of the "track start" jack to the Arduino's +5V pin (or to its 5V supply if you're not powering it from USB). 2) Choose your Arduino input pin (setup in your code using "pinMode(x,INPUT)" - i.e. do NOT use INPUT_PULLUP). Also connect this pin to Jack plug tip, alongside the resistor. 3) Connect the jack plug ring to one of the Arduino ground pins (or teh ground of the power supply if you're using one. Now, when you press the track start button you should see a LOW pulse at the input to your Arduino and your code can do whatever it is you want to happen when a button is pressed.

Really useful, thanks for coming back to post your findings!

Spoiler: The WiFi camera does indeed work! There is an antenna trace on the circuit board. Utterly bizarre they're wasting pennies attaching fake antennae though.

Can wires be attached to the trace to attach the dummy antenna and give it better reception???​@@MichaelBrooksDr

imgur.com/a/Id6W9Ld

It depends what you're calling "too hot". If you're judging by the signal LEDs being strongly lit, or the LED sound meters being lit to the top despite very little sound on any channels, then yes this may be the cause. However if you mean that the clip light on the channels is frequently lit, then it's probably another fault (gain too high / phono preamp switched on for a line level signal) etc

@@MichaelBrooksDr Hi thanks for reply, all the inputs sound distorted and impossible to mix even at low input gain, it doesnt appear to be summing at all, its under warranty so its gone back, cheers again. james

It's a custom modification but is relatively easy to do. I'm not selling any myself because I've not got the time to produce them.

@@MichaelBrooksDr lol any box available yet ?

Oh jeez... How much did they charge? I reckon either half of them will be full of sand, or will be low density 700mAh cells. Nevertheless, you can rip out the charge/discharge protection circuit and use it on legitimate capacity cells. I've found that the most reliable source for cells is online vape (e-ciagarette) shops!

You are very welcome to use this clip in part or its entirety with attribution (a small @MichaelBrooksDr on screen in semi transparent text will be fine). This was taken in the Monteverde Cloud Forest in Costa Rica (goo.gl/maps/ZVLiAyhnRByeGRBV8). I am also happy if you wish to use the clip or audio commercially with attribution. Birds are a recurrent pleasure in my life. The more people who appreciate them, the better they will be conserved. Your channel helps. Keep up the great work!

This could still be the same problem. If a connection goes dry the electrical gap may still be close enough for it to act like a capacitor meaning you'd get faint higher frequencies through but will lose all the bass. You might also have a completely dead right channel but with crosstalk from the left to right channel making it sound as though there's a faint signal on there. It's always worth tracing the signal from start to finish. Check the connections coming into the mixer, especially on the right channel. Clean those input RCA sockets. Then nudge the gain knobs to see if that is the problem. Then move the input fader up and down to see if it crackles. Then check the EQ buttons to see if toggling those makes a difference, then check the master faders. Compare the audio in the headphones to the record output to the main output. A useful sign is if the audio in the headphones has normal volume on the right channel then it could well be the same problem.

You're describing an indoor live PA scenario here, where the microphone will be used in the same indoor space as the speakers which are relaying the microphone. Your main problem, especially in a church, will be feedback from the speakers into the microphone. So you should avoid anything with too high sensitivity. You should also aim for a directional (cardoid or supercardoid mic) so you can keep the speaker sound from being picked up. Lapel electret mics would be a bad choice because they are too sensitive and not very directional Other factors to consider are: Handling: do you intend to hold the microphone by hand, or in a microphone stand, or do you want a worn headset mic? Cables: will this mic just be used on stage or do you intend to roam around the entire audience with it? Ruggedness: will it just be you using this, or are you looking for something that will last years with occasionally being dropped and knocked about? Mixer and amplifier: what other equipment do you have? If you already have a mixer, can it provide phantom power on microphone channels or not? If we assume a typical setup: your church has a simple 4 channel mixer with no phantom power, feeding into a few active speakers at the sides pointing towards the audience, and you'll be using this on stage at the front, then I recommend the Sennheiser e835 vocal dynamic mic, or the Shure SM58 which is more expensive but even more durable. If you're on a really tight budget, go for the Behringer XM8500 Ultravoice, but be aware that Behringer gear has a habit of developing faults after a few years.

I've been using the cells to run my bicycle lights. Judging by the runtime I'd say it's even less!

@MichaelBrooksDr well lights are a constant draw at whatever amp rating so runtime is a factor of what hour

@@joeKisonue yes, watt hour is amp hour * voltage. (Wh = VAh). Both are therefore a measure of total capacity of a battery.

Muito obrigado! I've bought a couple of those clone U87 bodies off AliExpress and put the OPA Alice circuit in them along with one of the large capsule condensers and a DC-DC Hex Inverter bias voltage circuit. The results have been so good that it has become my everyday studio microphone.

@@MichaelBrooksDr I'm an amateur, I don't know much about electronics. But I did the basics. your invention, it's much better and more professional I learned things from you...thanks GOD BLESS YOU. Sorry, I don't speak English.. kkk

It is all to do with the current limitations of phantom power. 48V would be capable of causing painful shocks if it wasn't current limited. So phantom power supplies deliver 48V through 6.8kOhm resistors. This current-limits the 48V. What this means is that phantom power is 48V when floating and nothing is connected to the end of it, but the moment you start to draw current from it, the actual voltage starts to fall (those 6.8 kOhm resistors and the load you connect to it act as a potential divider). It would be fine if all we were doing is charging a backplate which has a very high effective resistance, but we also need to draw some current from it to power the pre-amp circuitry in the microphone. This causes the 48V to fall downwards (typically to around 20V when drawing just 10mA), so we no longer have a high enough voltage to charge the backplate of the true condenser. In order to get a reliable voltage for the backplate, the OPA Alice circuit picks a voltage below what the phantom power gets dragged down to, and uses a Zener diode to derive a reliable voltage (12V) even when the amplifier circuitry is drawing slightly different amounts of current as it amplifies the varying sound input signal. The 12V is split two ways: one to power the operational amplifier and the other to charge the backplate To get back to a high enough voltage to charge the backplate, we need to use a voltage multiplier circuitry, bringing the 12V back up to about 84V. Since that 84V has been derived from our rock-solid 12V, it'll be a nice reliable 84V.

@@MichaelBrooksDr Thank you for the kind reply. I knew about the current limiting(and even the 6.8K resistors), but I didn't think about the resulting voltage sag. The voltage doubler circuitry makes more sense to me now. Thanks again.

First, make sure that it is indeed the fader which is the problem, because pressing down on the fader will slightly flex the circuit board it's attached to, which may push a loose contact in a next door component (e.g. a ribbon cable back into place). A good clue that it's the fader is if you hear crackling noise when you gently push the fader with minimal force. Assuming you're confident that the fader is the problem, try giving the fader track a good spray with a "compressed air" can, which may dislodge some fibres that are keeping the contact from the track. If that doesn't work, open the mixer. If it's the channel faders that are playing up, these are connected to the PCB indirectly via flyleads. Check the flylead connectors (you'll have to carefully power the mixer open and probe the connectors with an insulating stick of some sort). If it's the master faders, then these are directly soldered to the PCB, so check the legs for dry joints. See my other video for the mixer anatomy: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-skWTiC18KsM.html If the connections are not the problem then you will need to replace the affected faders. Both ALPS and Panasonic make compatible faders: - Channel 1 and 2 are Mono logarithmic 10k 100mm potentiometers (www.theaudioguyuk.com/product/behringer-panasonic-fader-100mm-10kd-mono-slim/9) - Channels 3-7 are stereo logarithmic 10k 100mm (www.theaudioguyuk.com/product/behringer-fader-100mm-10kd-stereo/101) - Master faders are stereo logarithmic 10k 60mm (www.theaudioguyuk.com/product/behringer-mackie-channel-fader-60mm-10kd-stereo/836)

It's probably the RU-vid audio compression affecting it. Though the centre-terminated capsule is definitely less "bright" than the middle terminated ones, so you may be noticing the difference between that and Mic 4.