Videos by photographer Jason P. Odell on digital photography, Nikon & OM System cameras, lenses, and accessories, and digital post-processing with Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop.
Geez mate, I reckon that would be the clearest explanation I've heard anyone ever do for a Photoshop process. Well done and thank you 👏😄 Saved me heaps of time.
So what is the difference between shooting 550nm and 780nm if both are desaturated? Is there a difference in contrast or brightness of foliage? I guess i need to dig into it more. I'd like to see some identical images shot at different wavelengths but all in b&w if that makes any sense. I don't like the colors necessarily but curious about differences in b&w only.
That's what I can't figure out. You have more latitude with color information to change in BNW mode but different wavelengths can result in different sharpness
Hola, más de 4000 personas han visto el vídeo y nadie te ha dejado un comentario. Increíble. Como activas esa opción? Porque por defecto no aparece. Gracias!
A very good intro, but I do have a few quibbles. Setting white balance in camera has many advantages, one of which is that you never see the horrible red image. On the camera screen or viewfinder you see a decent image allowing you to assess the image accurately and helps the camera achieve correct exposure. Lightroom and ACR recognise this white balance and you can double process the image to solve your problem with limited WB range in LR and the work flow is not camera dependant. PSCC offers several methods of channel swapping and has far better selection tools than LR has.
Thanks for the feedback. As to setting an in-camera WB, yes, that's best. But there are cameras (and wavelengths) where setting an in-camera WB is impossible (590nm, for example). In that scenario, setting the camera to Monochrome helps a lot with the EVF preview. IMO the current selection tools in Lr are FAR easier to use than those in Ps, plus you have the benefit of working on the RAW file directly and previewing any WB effects on channel-swapped images. I agree that Lr really needs to let you set WB temp down to about 1000-1500°K natively, which would solve a lot of headaches.
I'm going on a Bahamas cruise in a month, and wanted to take my camera, and you've given me so many good ideas! I love still photography, but I'm also a video arts student at my local university, and got myself a more video focused camera, the Panasonic Lumix S5IIX. I unfortunately don't have a long lens, but I'm hoping to make the most of what I've got! I'll be working with a 20-60mm 3.5-5.6, and a set of 1.8 primes at 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm.
Man, you are a savior! Now I know why the machine is SO slow. All that cache and not even using them anymore. Great tutorial, THIS should be flagged as awesome
nikon makes teleconverters for use with pro lenses which have special glass elements , and are already super sharp . So using them on none pro lenses will lose slight quality, the nikon tc 1.4 e ii work on nikon 70-200 fl ed vr ii perfectly
You can use NX Studio for the base conversion (setting WB) and it supports the built-in Nikon camera profiles. However, you would then need to use Photoshop to perform edits like Channel-Swapping (blue sky effect) etc. If all you use are Nikon cameras, then NX Studio is generally sufficient.
I recently had an Olympus E-M5ii converted, and I've tested all of my current OM System/Olympus glass: luminescentphoto.com/blog/2024/04/25/infrared-photography-with-micro-4-3rds-cameras/
Pour la photo infrarouge en numérique, il existe un objectif ( A s t r o s c a p e 9 3 5 0 low light ), en mettant l'appareil sur noir et blanc, la sensibilité 3200 i s o, mettre le filtre 87 c qui qui est rouge foncé, on voit les infrarouges, et pour retoucher la photo, seulement avec photo filtre, et non photo s h o p , qui n'est pas gratuit, et avec beaucoup de petits clic pour avoir la bonne photo. Je ne sais pas ce que vous en pensez? Comme cela on a pas besoin d'enlever le filtre de l'appareil, qui à ce moment là ne fait plus de photos normales mais que des infrarouge.
Funny, I purchased two "3 Legged Thing" Universal L-Brackets from B&H recently and now I'm inundated with RU-vid videos about L-Brackets. Didn't know there was so much to know and learn about the simple L-Bracket...
Thank you so much for helping me decide which IR convertion to do. I intend to convert a sony RX100 with a 780 nm filter because I am terrible with post processing and if I understood correctly I can have the right IR image in camera. Great presentation!!!!
Great webinar Jason. Even experienced LR and PS users will learn something about the power of the curves tool from this presentation. I have never considered using the curves tool as a levels adjustment and have not tried using the tool within a mask. Can't wait to try using it in this way. I hope you get lots of views from this one.
Thank you for this tips. A simple delete of multiple photos need a trip to many search to do it. Just got my MacBook. The disadvantage in Mac is it take away the flag that you spend so much time in choosing them. Windows is way smarter designed.
Having just stumbled across this replay of your webinar. It was stimulating and I really enjoyed it. Most of it was revelatory. I once owned a Hydrogen Alpha double stack filtered narrow band telescope with which I enjoyed viewing the sun's flares, prominences, reticulations and 'stuff' without burning holes into my retina. However my main query is I recently upgraded my old original Sony A7R to an A7R2.The A7R is effectively redundant now, but the thought occurs to me that when the A7R was produced the outstanding feature of its sensor is that it was bare of any filter glass fronting the sensor. I'm now wondering if this camera a candidate for an IR conversion?
Hi Bruce- ANY camera can be converted, since they always REMOVE the antialiasing filter pack and replace it with glass that allows IR to pass through. Before you convert any camera, always check to see if the lenses you have are prone to hot-spots. That's a much bigger concern these days.
