We are an Amsterdam based rope manufacturer and marine webshop specialized in ropes, rigging and deck hardware. We ship worldwide.
You can order your ropes with a variety of splices. The company founder, Jan-Willem Polman, is the author of the renowned book 'Splicing modern ropes'. We have a team of specialists here every day splicing ropes, swaging steel wire and packing orders for our customers. Our team of riggers travel around the world to fit out mega racing yachts with the best ropes. Besides your running rigging and deck hardware you can also order your standing rigging our web shop. In a few simple steps we explain how to measure your stays and guardrail and then custom order them on our website.
I have an old CDI roller furler. Every time I want to lower the headsail I have to attach a messenger line to the halyard. I've been sewing the messenger to the halyard end-to-end together end (like your method 2), but it's time consuming and I have to cut the messenger off each time. Although this video did not show how to attach a messenger to the halyard with the loops sewn in (method 1), I think I could have *both* the halyard and messenger prepared with the sewn in loops. When I want to attach the messenger I just insert it into the halyard loop and pull the messenger through its loop. To remove the messenger it's easy, just reverse the sequence of steps. So now the halyard and messenger loops can be reused. I don't think the transition point of loops will bind in the furler sheave, but wrapping with rigger tape will smooth it out and help. Now I have to have the guts to try it out!
Great video. I also bought your book (German edition) and it is great. I would want to stich the core to the cover on both sides. Is there something wrong with that? I am afraid after some use (Dragon Genoa furler) the cover will become longer and I will have really thin cover-only areas on both sides of the splice. What do you think?
You need to start with the spice a good bit behind the clutch. The thickening shrinks the rope. Do you have a rule how much the rope shrinks? What distance would you recommend? Thanks
Hi premium ropes, i am thinking of replacing the stainless steel standing rigging on my boat with dynema. Will it be o.k. to use double braided rope with dynema core for this job? My thinking is that the outer braid will offer a bit of protection to the dyneema core. I was going to use 6mm dyneema, so what would be the diameter of rope that includes the outer braid. Many thanks, Oz.
Hello Oz, We advise you to get proper advice on Dyneema rigging. It has a number of advantages, but certainly also a number of considerations to take into account. Standard Dyneema ropes are generally not suitable. At the very least, you need ropes developed for it. Feel free to call our head office if you want more advice.
@@Premiumropes Hi premium ropes, thank you for your reply. I've tried to get as much information as i can on Dyneema, and i think your advice is correct, i have to do a lot more research and thinking on the subject. Best regards, Oz.
Der Diamantknoten kann auf verschiedene Weise geknüpft werden. In unseren Spleißkursen haben wir mit dieser Erklärung gute Erfolge mit den Teilnehmenden erreicht. Aber auch wir können noch etwas dazu lernen und würden uns freuen, eine weitere Methode kennen zu lernen. Du kannst Deinen Vorschlag gerne an info@premiumropes.de schicken, dann melden wir uns zurück.
I didn't initially see this video but after several times having successfully completed your instructional video 7.3.2 I instinctively removed the cover from the cover. I can't for the life of me get the last inch in. It has bunched up and despite using a hammer it is rock hard. I have tried using a winch but this hasn't worked. Is there any solution to this or do I need to start over? Is there anything that can prevent the bunching? Thank you.
Not sure the dyneema will not fray if a larks head hitch is used on that block's becket. Might be better off with a shackle theough the becket and use a lark's head hitch on the rounded shackle shaft.
That method is good. I was always taught to use 3 1/2 fid lengths for the bury and a MUCH longer taper. I do agree that Selma fids are the best but I invert the loop before passing the other loop through. I invert it, use a regular fid to widen the hole then take a piece of bailing wire about 6 “ long, fold it in half then place one leg through my loop and the ends into the top off the fid and push it through. It’s been the most elegant method I’ve found and teach it at all of my workshops.
I want to make my own closing loops for my skydive container. What's the best 550 cord? I also can't find the right FID to make the finger trap. The one I bought is slightly too big. Thanks!
I have a halyard line, good for rope clutches - simply neasrly impossible to pass the core back - and then once you've done that, there is absolutely NO WAY the cover within the core is goping to slit past it to complete the splice. NO WAY. Three attempts. Even used a hammer on the fid to get it through. Is there another video ? You know, the real life video on tighter weave rope..
Hi, the technique is the same for tighter braided ropes. But not all ropes can be spliced. For some it's even impossible. The same applies for used ropes.
Great video! But, it would be SO MUCH easier to see exactly what was happening if the background was dark blue or black. White or light blue on a white background is not optimal…
so two problems i notice in real world situations, #1 taking the core out of the cover is never ever ever that simple or fast, it always usually ends up a mangled mess and takes about 30 minutes to an hour to actually pull out. # two, pulling the joint into the cover is never ever ever that easy or fast, or sometimes even possible; it's 3 layers too thick to get through the original hole you pulled the core out of, it usually requires about an hour of pounding and/or getting two people to pull it or getting it on a winch to pull. Nice video, but doesn't address real world issues. Obviously you did it here, but for whatever reason it doesn't work in the real world.
Would be nice to have some troubleshooting. I can't pull the end through the hole in the first step. I have the same tools as you do, it just won't go through. 4mm rope from your shop too. Showing a pro do it like it is so easy is misleading.
The technique would would, but it probably won't be a loop. This would be another splice ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q6patBi3aEo.htmlsi=NM-6egGOEoEtap-s
The splice is without the core. Only both covers. In this rope the load is equally divided between core and cover. If you like to make a loop with the core, please check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xQClAvoeXO4.htmlsi=XF11Bk5xcUOJo-5f
you have to understand what is the purpose of your line? are you maximizing strength or are you optimizing for handling? For a furler control line you clearly need a decent thickness for handling you are far from any load near breaking strength.
